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retiring a atc after a fall?
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old_school


Oct 20, 2001, 10:20 PM
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retiring a atc after a fall?
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my friend dropped my atc off a 40 foot cliff and it landed in somewhat soft grass/dirt, should we reitire it or not?


Partner pianomahnn


Oct 20, 2001, 10:29 PM
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I wouldn't. Soft grass/dirt. Sounds like a happy landing if you ask me.


mountainmike


Oct 20, 2001, 10:31 PM
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Personally I would retire any peice of grear if there was a question about it. Everything in climbing is supposed to be redundant but if you atc goes somebody is going to be screwed. There really tough but on the other hand there only like 15 bucks so why not just get another one.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 20, 2001, 10:50 PM
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In that particular case, I would not retire the piece.


rrrADAM
p.s. Gear questions/topics should be posted in the 'Gearheads' Forum.


dustinap
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Oct 21, 2001, 5:44 PM
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The atc should be fine, check on the inside and the outside of it for cracks or chips. Also, if the carabiner fell, it might be worth replacing it considering it has a moving part.
If it was a grigri, I would say there is no question-retire it.

Any type of tuber like device except a reverso should be fine in most cases though.


philclark


Oct 21, 2001, 5:51 PM
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I would retire it, i would feel better retiring it rather then wondering if its going to fail


passthepitonspete


Oct 21, 2001, 6:57 PM
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Pshaw! I have stuff on my rack that I bootied from the bottom of El Cap. No tellin' how far that stuff went!

But I would never trust a critical link to bootied, or especially dropped gear. Always build redundancy into the system.

I wouldn't retire an ATC for that.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 21, 2001, 7:03 PM
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pshaw- an expression of contempt or impatience.

Very good word Pete.


rrrADAM


froggy


Oct 22, 2001, 11:43 AM
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Get a new one - at least they are not that expensive..


maltek


Oct 22, 2001, 11:44 AM
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I agree with dustinap, look if there is a crack.. If not, keep it.

Maltek


krillen


Oct 22, 2001, 12:29 PM
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Why not retire it to an "emergancy" piece? If it looks fine, you "should" be able to get away with it in a pinch, but I wouldn't not with constant use. This is my OPINION, please don't come back complaining because you fell on repel wit hit...

Realistically you have to ask yourself..."is my life worth more than $15 ATC?"


paulc


Oct 22, 2001, 12:52 PM
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Personally if I drop a active piece then it is retired so that means biners, cams, gri-gris etc. If it is passive and not visibly damaged then I usually keep it unless it fell like 300'.

Pete point is good though, redundancy is best. The problem is that an ATC is usually a single point of failure. If you feel squemish about it then retire it, and get a new one, for the 15 bucks if it makes you feel better then go for it, but it sounds like it should be ok (but I haven't seen it and if you do decide to keep it and it fails then don't come crying to me...)

Krillen;

Who carries two ATCs with them on a climb. If you drop yours then you can always use a munter for a belay, and biner brake for rappel. Now I usually carry a gri-gri and an ATC, for those sport leads or when the second will likely fall alot and hang, but carry two ATC or equivilant? Not any time soon.

Paul


andy_lemon


Oct 22, 2001, 1:58 PM
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If there is no visible markings then don't retire it. Shit, ATC's will outlive all of us, what is the worry of dropping it in grass. Even if one had a hairline crack, it would still hold a 200lb person on a top-rope. Save it, but if you won't use it I'll give you my address.


krillen


Oct 22, 2001, 2:01 PM
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Paulc: Not necessarily take two atc's on a climb with you, but have it in your pack "just in case". Just a suggestion.


[ This Message was edited by: krillen on 2001-10-22 15:25 ]


thebear


Oct 22, 2001, 2:05 PM
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keep it...soft grass, it should be fine...unless you see visible damage.

if you've ever seen biners being made you'd think twice about retiring those after a drop as well (molded, assembled, hit against a table until it closes cleanly...no kidding).

just my thoughts


dustinap
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Oct 22, 2001, 2:30 PM
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retiring a atc after a fall? [In reply to]
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Just as a note, things like nuts and cams will often crack inside the unit first, and no on the outside. Therefore the signs are not always visible.

Myself, I will trust most booty, cutting slings off a cam, or changing the slings on a hex is good, using booty webbing is dumb, but it's all your comfort level.


If you really feel bad about using that ATC, you can always send it to me, along with anything else you drop.


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