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taydude
Sep 23, 2008, 6:47 PM
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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Does anyone have the beta for this thing? I always get to the v-notch and can slap for the next pod in the crack but it's horrible and I can't pull on it. I've heard that there are face holds? are they fairly large or tiny little knife edges?
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i_h8_choss
Sep 23, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2007
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no, but anyone got the beta on chilli sauce in j tree? im up to the 2 small crimps on the face ( one is a tiny black square ). then where do the feet go? and is it a left hand throw to the lip?
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curt
Sep 23, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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i_h8_choss wrote: no, but anyone got the beta on chilli sauce in j tree? im up to the 2 small crimps on the face ( one is a tiny black square ). then where do the feet go? and is it a left hand throw to the lip?
Well, since I've done it, I feel somewhat qualified to answer. Basically from there, there are two ways to finish the problem. The original (Moffat) V9 finish, which I did, goes straight up--smearing the right foot higher in the little corner and smearing the left foot up on the face. From there, it's a toss to the top. Sorry, I can't recall which hand.
Alternatively, from the same two handholds you have, the more modern V7 variation employs a left heel hook up high and a pull through to the top with the left hand. This variation is shown in the climbing video "Friction," that was filmed a few years ago in JT. Good luck.
Curt
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i_h8_choss
Sep 24, 2008, 9:04 AM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2007
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thanks curt ! ill give it another shot this winter.
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rhythm164
Oct 5, 2008, 6:36 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
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Yea, the V-notch is more or less the standard high point. I haven't been on it in a few years, but I think that's about where I got too, maybe one or two moves higher. I have a buddy who's done it a few times, and supposedly the key to unlocking the crux is a combination of not-very-large face holds. Just as an aside, you should get on Freddie Krueger (the direct version, not the pussy traverse-in-from-the-.10b-and-skip-the-business version) next time you're there if you want something hard. One of the best routes in town for sure.
cheers,
A
(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Oct 5, 2008, 6:42 PM)
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