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recomended climbs in tonsai/railey
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Sep 23, 2008, 9:18 PM
Post #1 of 2 (2798 views)

Registered: Apr 28, 2004
Posts: 23

recomended climbs in tonsai/railey  (Asia: Thailand: Southern_Provinces)
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The guide books are pretty weak on recommendations for routes, here are the routes you should do, IMHO, when you go.

3-star routes are ones I'd make sure I do again if I had the chance, 2-star are ones I'm really happy I did, 1-star and 0-star aren't in this list.

For the record, I like long continuous routes with interesting features and fun moves, but some routes make the list because of positioning (right off the beach, for example).

  • Banana Hammock, 6a+, The Nest **

  • Dozer Days, 6c, The Nest ***: good roof, hard face moves, cool stemming to stalactites

  • Groove Tuby, 6a, Fire Wall **: easy climb up a chimney, but great positioning

  • Missing Snow, 6b+, Tyrolean **: neat melting wax rock

  • Smoking Room, 6c, Melting Wall ***: roof, stalactites, stemming, powerful at times, overhanging, its got it all

  • Cross-Eyed, 7b, Melting Wall ***: crazy huecos, big dynos, powerful slightly overhanging face, and fine positioning

  • I no speak England, 6b+, Tonsai **

  • Land of smiles, 7a/7b, Happy Island ***: crazy complex crux over this weird blob on an otherwise blank wall, and continuous hard and delicate climbing above

  • Don't worry, be happy, 6a+, Happy Island ***: Julie really liked this, I didn't do it. Get a boost to the first bolt!

  • King Cat, 6c, Cat Wall ***: so overhanging, its hard to believe its climbable, but it is!

  • the 6a's on Cobra Wall **

  • Circus Oz, 6a+, Thaiwand ***: long and fun

  • The King and I, 7a, Thaiwand: long, fun, intimidating, lots of endurance and then powerful

  • Fit to be Thaid, 6a+, Thaiwand ***

  • Beauty and the Beast, 6a+, Tonsai **: deep breath, and let yourself fall out to the stalactite, fun!

  • Heart of Darkness, 6c+/7a, Cat Wall ***: 5 pitches of fun climbing, continuous at the grade, and a beautiful mid-height belay ledge to look out over the bay from, and goes right to the top of the wall (unlike most multipitch down there)

  • Humanlity, 6b+, Tonsai **: overrated, its got a nasty start, some boring pitches, and a stellar move at midheight, despite this its right over the beach so wins based on positioning

  • Love for Travelling, 7a+/6c, Tonsai ***: funky moves, deep pockets, stemming, chimneying, roofs and cracks, great!

  • Monkey Love, 6b, Thaiwand **

  • Mala Mujer, 6b, Thaiwand ***: long and fun

  • Fire Starter, 6c+, Fire Wall **

  • Burnt Offerings, 7a+, Fire Wall ***: great photos, good moves over an improbable cave mouth

  • Beauty and the Beast, 6b, Monkey World ***: first pitches are ok, but the last is a full 30 metres of continuously fun and interesting stemming, chimneying, face, tufas, etc., great Thai limestone!

  • Lion King, 6c+, Dum's Kitchen ***: too hard for the grade, but fun, and gets an extra star for coming straight off the beach

  • Caroline's Last Day, 6a, The Nest **: fun chimney, and Wee's guidebook is wrong, it's been rebolted with titanium glue-ins

  • Big Wave, 6b, Monkey Wall ***: first pitch is ok, but next 3 pitches are uniformly fabulous, differ from each in character, and it goes to just 10 feet short of the top! Great route, great view.

That's it.


Dec 28, 2014, 8:10 PM
Post #2 of 2 (1591 views)

Registered: Oct 2, 2009
Posts: 48

Re: [samroberts] recomended climbs in tonsai/railey [In reply to]
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Thanks for the info!

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