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ejlim


Nov 8, 2002, 10:02 AM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2002
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Potrero questions....  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n: El_Potrero_Chico)
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Two questions -

I'm thinking of heading down to Potrero in Jan/Feb....I'm leading 5.9/5.10a sport for now (hopefully stronger by then). I was told that the stuff down there is mostly harder - is it worth my time to spend a week there? Is there enough moderate stuff that I'd enjoy?

Also, I'll probably be heading down by myself. I've seen lots of people say I can just hook up with people down there - how would I go about doing this? Do I just walk up to groups and ask if they're looking for partners? I know this question probably sounds stupid, but I would hate to head down there and be stuck with no one to climb with

Also - if anyone's up for joining me let me know! I'm in early stages of planning but it'll have to be after the holidays I think (too crazy at home to get away)....

Thanks for your help!
Beth


sonso45


Nov 8, 2002, 10:52 AM
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Depending on where you stay, you will meet people immediately and you will find someone. I did a couple long easy 10 routes, Yankee Clipper and Space Boyz and glad I had a partner I knew. If you and your partner are ok on a couple shorter routes, then have fun.


ejlim


Nov 8, 2002, 10:37 PM
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Thx!

Any recommendations on where to stay? I was thinking Homeros but interested in people's preferences/opinions...


dirtbag


Nov 8, 2002, 10:52 PM
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Homero's would be cool - but it's going to be a madhouse, so be ready to do some gorilla camping.

I recommend getting on some of the longer routes as soon as you get down there, but there are many single pitches well within your rage if your not in to the adventure sport climbing.

I don't think you'll have any problems hooking up with people down there, as I said, it will be a madhouse.

Have fun mate!


chunkymunky


Nov 8, 2002, 11:39 PM
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Hey,
i was possibly planning on being there between the holidays and was wondering on what to bring for gear. just quick draws and rope etc.. or anything extra? helmet?
is there anything i should be sure to bring from the states that i can't get in mexico? i do speak spanish so i think that will help. i am excited to do some climbing south of the border
cory


potreroed


Nov 12, 2002, 10:25 AM
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There are tons of moderate routes here now and finding partners is no problem. Definitely bring a helmet and an extra pair of climbing shoes--this rock eats rubber.
Energy bars are hard to find and expensive.


potreroed


Nov 12, 2002, 10:25 AM
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There are tons of moderate routes here now and finding partners is no problem. Definitely bring a helmet and an extra pair of climbing shoes--this rock eats rubber.
Energy bars are hard to find and expensive.


cdb1386


Nov 12, 2002, 11:15 AM
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Also bring a at least a 60m rope and a 70m is better. Helmet in my opinion is a necessity.


leaverbiner


Nov 12, 2002, 11:43 AM
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DEFINITELy bring the helmet and WEAR it particularly while belaying and anywhere near the long routes!! As for other things - you should be fine with 13 or so draws, I think the most I saw on a single climb/pitch was 16 and that was a linked climb (Gringo Disco - fantastic 11a) Also, 60m is fine, but if you have the 70 you might as well bring it. I would bring powdered mix for Gatorade if you drink it, you won't find it down there. Also - Peanut butter. Dairy, bread, fruits, veggies, you can get there and they are cheap. Bring a headlamp and keep it with you at all times .. . it gets dark real quick and you don't want to get caught in the dark without one. As for any trip, I would recommend bringing an extra belay device just in case, and an extra pair of shoes. Also, bring a deck of cards or a travel game for your time at night or days off, you'll be amazed how easy it is to meet a great group of people by starting up a game of cards or scabble! Have fun . .. the Potrero is fantastic.

Route recommendations at the grade you suggested -
Sleepwalkin' 9+
Coca Cola 10
Cerveza - 10
Motavation - 10
Motavision - 10
Take me to your Marklar - 10

Multi-pitch (other than the classics of Spce Boyz and Snott Girlz)
Jungle Boy (2pitches, 5.9, and 5.7)
Las Chimuelas (3pitches 2 5.8's and 1 5.9)
Aguja Celo Rey (classic 2 pitch on the spires)
The Rattler (3 pitches, 2 9's, 1 10)
Agua de Coco (one pitch is 10d, so beware if that is your limit, otherwise SWEET route up the palm trees)

If you want to try an 11, I would recommend Fat Boy Slim and Gringo Disco as soliud and a lot of Fun!


climbingfoo


Nov 13, 2002, 9:19 AM
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ummmm Yankee Clipper wasn't what I would consider "easy". It's only got 15+ pitches with last 3 pitches being 5.12 and most pitches 5.10 - 5.11.


krillen


Nov 13, 2002, 9:58 AM
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Okay http://www.elpotrerochico.com.mx/
the Posada is the best bet for Camping. Fantastic facilities, gas stoves, freezers, fridges, a huge kitchen facility and drinkable water for your usage. Seperate sex bathrooms with up to 8 stalls and showers with hot water (a MAJOR plus, especially if you are there for a while and it's hot). The price is compareable, but what you get for it is soooo much more.

It's as close at Homero's to the climbing, Checo's Restaurant, and Town.

These guys are right about the Helmet issue. I pulled off a fist sized chuck on the 3rd pitch of Snott Girls (a great 5.9-5.10 lead) and almost hit some people (even yelling "Rock" about 15 times!).

There are lots of great climbs there, yes a lot of 11's, but enough 10's to keep you busy, plus you'll start to climb harder once you get used to the rock and climb eveyrday.

It's all sport, with a very FEW Trad climbs.

As for partners, just fish around the camp sites for people willing ot take on others. If you find a group, watch them belay, adn make sure they are comfortable with yours as well. Better safe than sorry.

Hope this helps.


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