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Aiding Sandstone
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austin.timm


Sep 30, 2008, 5:36 PM
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Aiding Sandstone
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Ok guys,

I've been asked to pick up the slack above my buddies free climbing ability for some new routes on Sandstone this coming November.

I've led A3+ on granite, and A2 on limestone.

Alternatively I've never done anything to sandstone more than walked on some slick rock trails at Arches NP many moons ago.

According to some imagery we have the route is going to involve a lot of thin aid and I don't know what to take.

Of course I'll have my peckers and all my blades, but at what rate do copper/alumaheads become useful? Are only the big sizes useful, all of them, or none at all?

For blank sections I can't imagine that bat hooks are safe at all, so is the word to use bolts or to drill holes for baby angles? Somebody told me today that they did an FA far back in the day and they drilled mondo holes and drove 3/4"" angles into the holes for belays and bombproof pro if they needed it.

Thanks,
-Austin


(This post was edited by austin.timm on Sep 30, 2008, 5:39 PM)


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2008, 5:55 PM
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Re: [austin.timm] Aiding Sandstone [In reply to]
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CoolTry going over to SuperTaco and asking Piton Ron...he's a sandstone aiding GAWD![/cool]


chossmonkey


Sep 30, 2008, 6:00 PM
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Re: [austin.timm] Aiding Sandstone [In reply to]
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Sandstone can very a lot. Do you know anything about it. Fine/course grained, well cemented/brownsugar?


austin.timm


Sep 30, 2008, 7:03 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Aiding Sandstone [In reply to]
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From what I understand the first 500 feet is solid enough to use 1/4" Rawl Drives - I was told this by the same guy that used angles(later in the ascent the rock became less compact.


atg200


Nov 22, 2008, 8:21 PM
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Copperheads are pretty worthless in sandstone.

Drilling in most desert sandstone isn't very hard. NO real reason to go smaller than a 3/8" bolt.

I'd really recommend doing a number of established desert aid routes before doing a big FA so you don't make a hash of it. Techniques are different from granite, and its easy to create a very ugly scar if you nail poorly.


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