Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


Bigmacrockett


Oct 1, 2008, 11:24 AM
Post #1 of 10 (2214 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 2

Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man?  (North_America: United_States: Oregon: Portland_Metro_Area: Rocky_Butte)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Was my first time leading outdoors, so would like to know route name and difficulty.. It may have the same beginning as Flakey old man, but continues straight up over a small shelf, where Flakey old man angles off to the right. The 3 chain anchors are just below a small tree and are slightly sketchy to retrieve from above if you don't use the additional bolt placed higher for protection. Directly to the left is another bolted route that follows a thin crack at the top. Anyone ideas? Its not listed in Weekend Rock...


chossmonkey


Oct 1, 2008, 4:32 PM
Post #2 of 10 (2181 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [Bigmacrockett] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.


sungam


Oct 1, 2008, 5:42 PM
Post #3 of 10 (2175 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26799

Re: [chossmonkey] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

chossmonkey wrote:
Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.
Mine was almost the same, only my friend went first and fell off and popped some gear, then I eventually finished it off. My extra reach let me place a better piece (not that I could tell the difference...)
Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts.


krosbakken


Oct 1, 2008, 5:53 PM
Post #4 of 10 (2169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [sungam] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.
Mine was almost the same, only my friend went first and fell off and popped some gear, then I eventually finished it off. My extra reach let me place a better piece (not that I could tell the difference...)
Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts.

jeez sungam, you did your first lead climb and your first gear fall on the same day!? that sounds like some sketchy shit going on.


currupt4130


Oct 1, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #5 of 10 (2163 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [krosbakken] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I did the same thing? Took a practice fall, lead some routes, got on something too hard and wound up falling. It was on sport though...


krosbakken


Oct 1, 2008, 6:07 PM
Post #6 of 10 (2160 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [currupt4130] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

currupt4130 wrote:
I did the same thing? Took a practice fall, lead some routes, got on something too hard and wound up falling. It was on sport though...


crazy but it was on sport, were sungam was on gear which makes it a bit more sketchy.


sungam


Oct 1, 2008, 6:08 PM
Post #7 of 10 (2159 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26799

Re: [krosbakken] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

krosbakken wrote:
sungam wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.
Mine was almost the same, only my friend went first and fell off and popped some gear, then I eventually finished it off. My extra reach let me place a better piece (not that I could tell the difference...)
Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts.

jeez sungam, you did your first lead climb and your first gear fall on the same day!? that sounds like some sketchy shit going on.
Thinking back it was actually my 5th trad route and 3rd lead. The other two had been a week earlier with a guy called Russ who explained to me how a cam works and how to place nuts.
Note how neither of us present that day had any idea what we were doing, we were also in a quarry that gets climbed once every never.
I feel that if we lived near the Gunks I would have unknowingly featured on this site a fair amount.
Also, it wasn't so much a fall as me making a lunge for a ledge, mantling it and realising that there was nothing there.
I had to jump off Crazy


Bigmacrockett


Oct 1, 2008, 10:32 PM
Post #8 of 10 (2124 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 2

Re: [Bigmacrockett] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It was a sport route, just FYI. Thinking it was about a 5.8+ Haven't gotten started on trad just yet...one day, though...maybe after I take my first big fall...


chossmonkey


Oct 2, 2008, 4:59 AM
Post #9 of 10 (2066 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [Bigmacrockett] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Bigmacrockett wrote:
It was a sport route, just FYI. Thinking it was about a 5.8+ Haven't gotten started on trad just yet...one day, though...maybe after I take my first big fall...
Don't wait that long. Do it as soon as you can get the gear.

Risking falling shouldn't be part of the equation when starting to lead especially on gear. Most easy gear routes have a lot to hit and then there is always the chance/probability of ripping gear.

The way a guide friend of mine teaches leading on gear is aid climbing. You get to have a lot of practice placing gear and you can see what will hold a good bounce test and what will just pop out.


ravens_wing_jim


Feb 20, 2010, 9:48 AM
Post #10 of 10 (1613 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 396

Re: [Bigmacrockett] Bolted route directly to the left of Flakey Old Man? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That route really doesnt have a name. Its right between flakey old man and zevas book. Its been there for years now, and I've led it many times. Fun little route. I'm not a big fan of video bluff wall though...much better other walls at the butte.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$26.96 (10% off)
$184.46 (10% off)
$13.05 (10% off)
$40.46 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook