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Bigmacrockett
Oct 1, 2008, 6:24 PM
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Was my first time leading outdoors, so would like to know route name and difficulty.. It may have the same beginning as Flakey old man, but continues straight up over a small shelf, where Flakey old man angles off to the right. The 3 chain anchors are just below a small tree and are slightly sketchy to retrieve from above if you don't use the additional bolt placed higher for protection. Directly to the left is another bolted route that follows a thin crack at the top. Anyone ideas? Its not listed in Weekend Rock...
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chossmonkey
Oct 1, 2008, 11:32 PM
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Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.
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sungam
Oct 2, 2008, 12:42 AM
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chossmonkey wrote: Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it.
Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts.
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krosbakken
Oct 2, 2008, 12:53 AM
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sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it. Mine was almost the same, only my friend went first and fell off and popped some gear, then I eventually finished it off. My extra reach let me place a better piece (not that I could tell the difference...) Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts.
jeez sungam, you did your first lead climb and your first gear fall on the same day!? that sounds like some sketchy shit going on.
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currupt4130
Oct 2, 2008, 1:02 AM
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I did the same thing? Took a practice fall, lead some routes, got on something too hard and wound up falling. It was on sport though...
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krosbakken
Oct 2, 2008, 1:07 AM
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currupt4130 wrote: I did the same thing? Took a practice fall, lead some routes, got on something too hard and wound up falling. It was on sport though...
crazy but it was on sport, were sungam was on gear which makes it a bit more sketchy.
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sungam
Oct 2, 2008, 1:08 AM
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krosbakken wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Good job on your first lead. That reminds me of the first lead I did, we walked up to the cliff and found a route that looked doable and climbed it. Mine was almost the same, only my friend went first and fell off and popped some gear, then I eventually finished it off. My extra reach let me place a better piece (not that I could tell the difference...) Attempting to repeat this process farther along the cliff I found myself taking my first fall. It was a day of firsts. jeez sungam, you did your first lead climb and your first gear fall on the same day!? that sounds like some sketchy shit going on.
Note how neither of us present that day had any idea what we were doing, we were also in a quarry that gets climbed once every never.
I feel that if we lived near the Gunks I would have unknowingly featured on this site a fair amount.
Also, it wasn't so much a fall as me making a lunge for a ledge, mantling it and realising that there was nothing there.
I had to jump off 
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Bigmacrockett
Oct 2, 2008, 5:32 AM
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It was a sport route, just FYI. Thinking it was about a 5.8+ Haven't gotten started on trad just yet...one day, though...maybe after I take my first big fall...
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chossmonkey
Oct 2, 2008, 11:59 AM
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Bigmacrockett wrote: It was a sport route, just FYI. Thinking it was about a 5.8+ Haven't gotten started on trad just yet...one day, though...maybe after I take my first big fall...
Risking falling shouldn't be part of the equation when starting to lead especially on gear. Most easy gear routes have a lot to hit and then there is always the chance/probability of ripping gear.
The way a guide friend of mine teaches leading on gear is aid climbing. You get to have a lot of practice placing gear and you can see what will hold a good bounce test and what will just pop out.
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ravens_wing_jim
Feb 20, 2010, 5:48 PM
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That route really doesnt have a name. Its right between flakey old man and zevas book. Its been there for years now, and I've led it many times. Fun little route. I'm not a big fan of video bluff wall though...much better other walls at the butte.
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