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jkinstrey


Oct 1, 2008, 4:53 PM
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chossmonkey


Oct 2, 2008, 5:17 AM
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Re: [jkinstrey] Chopped Anchors [In reply to]
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jkinstrey wrote:
Thanks fag!
You sure told that guy!!!!



Seriously though that sucks. Be sure to make the new bolts tamper resistant.


GeneralZon


Oct 2, 2008, 9:51 AM
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Just curious, never bolted a route, but how do you make it tamper resistant?


dingus


Oct 2, 2008, 9:56 AM
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Post an armed guard? That works best, though it tends to be expensive, especiallyk for multiple projects! Merde!

Put the anchor station in the middle of a 135 degree wall with mandatory 5.13 to reach it (that works pretty good haha)

Put little smily faces on your bolt hangers and name all your routes things like "Have a Wonderful Life" or "Isn't it a NICE DAY?" Or the ever popular "I LOVE FLOWERS!" This works some of the time.

DMT


irregularpanda


Oct 2, 2008, 10:50 AM
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jkinstrey wrote:
Thanks fag!

I'm curious, are they gay because they chopped regularly used bolts?

Are they gay because they didn't get approval of the first ascensionists?

Are they gay because it's a pain in the ass to walk down after doing the second pitch?

Or are they just gay?


chossmonkey


Oct 2, 2008, 12:14 PM
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GeneralZon wrote:
Just curious, never bolted a route, but how do you make it tamper resistant?
Recessed glue-ins, Peztl Longlifes, stud bolts with a small blob welded onto the threads after the hanger and nut are put on, and epoxy on the head are a few ways to make bolts tamper resistant. Some methods are more so than others.

There is no such thing as tamper proof.


GeneralZon


Oct 2, 2008, 12:17 PM
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Thanks.


dingus


Oct 2, 2008, 1:15 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
GeneralZon wrote:
Just curious, never bolted a route, but how do you make it tamper resistant?
Recessed glue-ins, Peztl Longlifes, stud bolts with a small blob welded onto the threads after the hanger and nut are put on, and epoxy on the head are a few ways to make bolts tamper resistant. Some methods are more so than others.

There is no such thing as tamper proof.

True. Experience suggests a sharp whack with a hammer will dispatch epoxy with a single swing - crack it like and egg, boom.

Brush away crumbs and remove nut as usual.

Cheers
DMT


shimanilami


Oct 2, 2008, 1:55 PM
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What good is webbing if the bolts were chopped?

Whatever. That sucks. Space Truckin' is a nice warm-up and having chains up is great if you want to run some laps. Thanks for taking care of it.

And if I run into the guy who chopped 'em, I'll break his legs.


jkinstrey


Oct 2, 2008, 2:17 PM
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There is a horn up there to rap off of if you want to leave some webbing behind.


bluefunk


Oct 3, 2008, 11:23 AM
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clintcummins


Oct 3, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Re: [bluefunk] Chopped Anchors [In reply to]
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I haven't been there in a long time, but up through the 1991 guidebook, there were no anchor bolts at the Eagle Lake cliff for Space Truckin' or any other climb except the Off the Wall pillar. We walked off.

So the bolts were added at some point, and maybe somebody didn't like that change. Personally I don't have a problem with chains there, unless they are excessively visible from the base.


(This post was edited by clintcummins on Oct 3, 2008, 12:11 PM)


mushroomsamba


Oct 3, 2008, 12:13 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Chopped Anchors [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
jkinstrey wrote:
Thanks fag!

I'm curious, are they gay because they chopped regularly used bolts?

Are they gay because they didn't get approval of the first ascensionists?

Are they gay because it's a pain in the ass to walk down after doing the second pitch?

Or are they just gay?

that one


jmeizis


Oct 3, 2008, 12:16 PM
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If there's a a horn to rap off then why do there need to be anchors? I haven't been here.


boltchopperdeathsquad


Oct 4, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Re: [bluefunk] Chopped Anchors [In reply to]
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bluefunk wrote:
I can see why, and support, the chopping of bolts next to protectable cracks and bolts that are placed with power drills in wilderness areas but this f***n pisses me off. Why chop anchor bolts? If you want to chop bolts go chop all the bolted cracks down in Owens River Gorge. Now on I'm going to carry a baseball bat in my crag pack and if I catch somebody chopping bolts just to be a dick I will f**king chop your head and break your legs!!! Mad

I'm with Bluefunk if I catch anyone chopping bolts I will torture and kill them... It is senseless chopping bolts on two of the most traveled climbs at eagle lake cliff. Obviously someone put a lot of time and effort into putting up those bolts in order to make the climbing more convenient and enjoyable for everyone. Any one caught chopping bolts will be severely beaten and there genitals will be removed with a bosch hammer drill! Seriously removing bolts from a climb such as space truckin is ludicrous, not to mention a waste of time. Just climb and be happy, don't be gay. Mad


shockabuku


Oct 4, 2008, 6:40 AM
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Nice thread. But you're all full'a shit.


dingus


Oct 4, 2008, 7:27 AM
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boltchopperdeathsquad wrote:
bluefunk wrote:
I can see why, and support, the chopping of bolts next to protectable cracks and bolts that are placed with power drills in wilderness areas but this f***n pisses me off. Why chop anchor bolts? If you want to chop bolts go chop all the bolted cracks down in Owens River Gorge. Now on I'm going to carry a baseball bat in my crag pack and if I catch somebody chopping bolts just to be a dick I will f**king chop your head and break your legs!!! Mad

I'm with Bluefunk if I catch anyone chopping bolts I will torture and kill them... It is senseless chopping bolts on two of the most traveled climbs at eagle lake cliff. Obviously someone put a lot of time and effort into putting up those bolts in order to make the climbing more convenient and enjoyable for everyone. Any one caught chopping bolts will be severely beaten and there genitals will be removed with a bosch hammer drill! Seriously removing bolts from a climb such as space truckin is ludicrous, not to mention a waste of time. Just climb and be happy, don't be gay. Mad

Some day you retrobolters will fucking learn.... bolt a route that was freed without them (before you were born) and it WILL GET THE CHOP.

It does not matter one iota whether you approve or not.

You kids are GOING TO HAVE TO LEARN... DO NOT BOLT OTHER PEOPLE'S ROUTES.

This is the wild west here and frontier justice is the order of the day.

And you ain't got torture in you mate. You'd be in the CIA if you did.

Um.... you're NOT in the CIA.... RIGHT?????

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Oct 4, 2008, 7:29 AM)


sungam


Oct 4, 2008, 8:03 AM
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Dingus, is that you admitting you chopped the bolts?
Was the route retro bolted or were the bolts there to protect trees etc. from constant traffic?


dingus


Oct 4, 2008, 9:29 AM
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sungam wrote:
Dingus, is that you admitting you chopped the bolts?
Was the route retro bolted or were the bolts there to protect trees etc. from constant traffic?

Never chopped a bolt in my life what I didn't place myself to begin with.

I'm just pointing out reality. The lake Tahoe area of California is host to all sorts of cragging - from bouldering to sport to trad. And these genres have gotten on well over the years, for the most part. But when convenience anchors start going in all over long-established routes there are still those purists that have a problem with that. Some of them live in that area and are very active.

It should surprise no one. While I won't come out and applaud the removal of the bolts I won't weep for their departure and I don't join those who Rally Round the Retrobolt.

Cheers
DMT


secretninja


Oct 4, 2008, 9:49 AM
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Re: [dingus] Chopped Anchors [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
You kids are GOING TO HAVE TO LEARN... DO NOT BOLT OTHER PEOPLE'S ROUTES.

DMT

So what you're saying is that the bolts I put up Potter's route up Delicate arche was a bit of a faux pas? My bad...


sungam


Oct 4, 2008, 11:13 AM
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The admission thing was a joke, forget to add the Tongue in there.
But I do think that "convinience" anchors can sometimes be something a little more. If people always anchor off of trees or other bushes/whatever and it's high traffic- it won't be doing the tree any favors.
A bolt or two stopping the tree dying (which would result in having to find alternative anchors anyways) seems to be worth it for me.
If there are gear placements, though, I think the same thing goes as for routes.


Lazlo


Oct 4, 2008, 11:52 AM
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For whatever it's worth; and because I'm bored:

At my local crag a team of wahoos put in hardware store anchors with chains on a popular TR. The wall is TR only on fractured basalt. City doesn't approve of bolts/anchors. It's protectable with gear and/or webbing. AND if you were to place bolts; atleast use climbing-grade hangers...and forget the chains; it's not a rap route (you park above the climb and walk ten feet to the top of the cliff)

So; the local consesses was that they needed to be chopped. There was just no reason for them to be there, except to fascilitate noob Top Rope chain-threading.

Soon enough though, the Fire Dept came out and chopped them due to city policy. Nice ending, I thought. No toes stepped on.


salamanizer


Oct 4, 2008, 12:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
The admission thing was a joke, forget to add the Tongue in there.
But I do think that "convinience" anchors can sometimes be something a little more. If people always anchor off of trees or other bushes/whatever and it's high traffic- it won't be doing the tree any favors.
A bolt or two stopping the tree dying (which would result in having to find alternative anchors anyways) seems to be worth it for me.
If there are gear placements, though, I think the same thing goes as for routes.

Nope! They are purely convenience anchors positioned right next to a splitter crack. They facilitate a quick retreat and a fast toprope setup.

Like most short walls in Tahoe, Eagle Lake Cliff has been turned into an easily accessible TR mecca. An outdoor gym if you will.

I call them concentration walls. Like East Wall, 90' Wall, Snowshed Wall, Cookie Cliffs, Middle Spire etc... It's where the "recreational"(for lack of a better word) climbers congregate. They show up early, string a web of ropes over the entire area and take "burns" on every route.

I personally like these areas. Keeps the crowds contained and you quickly know where not to climb.
I say let them have em. Bunch of short 1/4 pitch routes anyway.


Lazlo


Oct 4, 2008, 12:56 PM
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I'm literally going to jot these walls down for future (avoiding) referenceWink


sungam


Oct 4, 2008, 1:20 PM
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salamanizer wrote:
sungam wrote:
The admission thing was a joke, forget to add the Tongue in there.
But I do think that "convinience" anchors can sometimes be something a little more. If people always anchor off of trees or other bushes/whatever and it's high traffic- it won't be doing the tree any favors.
A bolt or two stopping the tree dying (which would result in having to find alternative anchors anyways) seems to be worth it for me.
If there are gear placements, though, I think the same thing goes as for routes.

Nope! They are purely convenience anchors positioned right next to a splitter crack. They facilitate a quick retreat and a fast toprope setup.

Like most short walls in Tahoe, Eagle Lake Cliff has been turned into an easily accessible TR mecca. An outdoor gym if you will.

I call them concentration walls. Like East Wall, 90' Wall, Snowshed Wall, Cookie Cliffs, Middle Spire etc... It's where the "recreational"(for lack of a better word) climbers congregate. They show up early, string a web of ropes over the entire area and take "burns" on every route.

I personally like these areas. Keeps the crowds contained and you quickly know where not to climb.
I say let them have em. Bunch of short 1/4 pitch routes anyway.
Sad state of affairs.

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