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USnavy


Oct 11, 2008, 1:40 PM
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Best sport climbing in the USA?
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So I am thinking of taking my next two-week climbing vacation in March - April. I am trying to figure where I want to go this time. I can lead sport up to 5.11+ so I am looking for some areas that have plenty of routes in that area. Last vacation I went to Red Rocks, Owens River Gorge, J Tree, Malibu Creek, and Echo Cliffs. I found Red Rocks to be the best climbing area by far (short approaches, soft ground, nice routes). But where is the best sport climbing area in the entire USA? Right now I am thinking its Red Rocks, but I have not been to some of the other more famous sport area so I am not entirely sure.


chossmonkey


Oct 11, 2008, 2:18 PM
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You did all those places on a two week trip?!?!?!


What grades are you looking for?


USnavy


Oct 11, 2008, 3:38 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Best sport climbing in the USA? [In reply to]
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Well I only spent one day in J Tree, Malibu, and Echo. The rest of the time was spent in Red Rocks. For sport, I can redpoint up to 5.11c and enjoy anything in the 5.10 - 11d / 12a range.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 11, 2008, 3:39 PM)


Partner angry


Oct 11, 2008, 3:44 PM
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The Black Canyon


jbroom


Oct 11, 2008, 3:45 PM
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the red river gorge is pretty stellar for sure and has to be one of the best sport crags in the US. 2,000+ routes, nice, long and pumpy. rifle and the new river gorge are pretty f'n good too thoughl. two weeks will be good at any of those spots but you could climb a lifetime at any one as well and never get bored.


olympicmtnboy


Oct 11, 2008, 4:49 PM
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Smith Rock, OR is fun, maybe for a week or so anyways.


duncanlennon


Oct 11, 2008, 5:11 PM
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Red Rocks is the best area I've been to, by far. The New, the Red, and Rumney are also great, but for a trip in March or April, Nevada will have to win out. Try the trad there, too!


vertical1


Oct 13, 2008, 7:54 PM
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Re: [jbroom] Best sport climbing in the USA? [In reply to]
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jbroom wrote:
the red river gorge is pretty stellar for sure and has to be one of the best sport crags in the US. 2,000+ routes, nice, long and pumpy. rifle and the new river gorge are pretty f'n good too thoughl. two weeks will be good at any of those spots but you could climb a lifetime at any one as well and never get bored.

Without a doubt the best crag in America. And I am not saying that from the "home crag" bias. i live in Utah, but get there every chance I get. And if you are in the area, hit Obed/clear creek in TN, and Summersville/New river gorge WV. But hands down, the red is the best; especially with all the new moderate stuff in muir valley and Pembergrass areas. I will be there for a month in the spring as well.


wzrdgandalf


Oct 13, 2008, 8:41 PM
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I would have to throw another vote out there for the Red.


dreday3000


Oct 14, 2008, 6:53 AM
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Love the Red but be aware that it is a jug fest. Especially up to the 512 range. Gonna have to put in a vote for the New. Lots of variety and some great technical routes.

Both areas are single pitch.


camhead


Oct 14, 2008, 6:56 AM
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my favorite place that I have climbed sport in the US is definitely the Red River Gorge as well.


USnavy


Oct 14, 2008, 9:55 AM
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Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range?


sidepull


Oct 14, 2008, 10:45 AM
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I haven't been to the Red (and it looks fab in pics) but my favorite sport destination is Maple Canyon. Maple in April (almost rhymes) would be perfect. The climbing there is so unique and the area has a great vibe. Maple also has a few multi-pitch sport climbs.


camhead


Oct 14, 2008, 11:11 AM
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USnavy wrote:
Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range?

Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico.


kennoyce


Oct 14, 2008, 11:20 AM
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Just one more vote for Red Rocks. Seriously I have never been anywhere else with such a high concentration of great sport climbs in such a small area, another added benefit are all of the long trad climbs as well. I would also say that Maple canyon is a close second to Red rocks, so since you have been to red rocks, you might give maple a go.


jbroom


Oct 14, 2008, 12:04 PM
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red rocks has multipitch sport routes? i can't think of more than a handful. tons of awesome trad for sure but not so much bolted. if you want a bunch of multipitch bolted routes i don't know of a better place than potrero chico.
but if you're looking at single pitchers the quality of stone and proximity of the red, the new, obed, etc is in my opinion impossible to beat in the US. plus if you've been to red rocks already don't you want to see something new?


chossmonkey


Oct 15, 2008, 5:20 AM
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dreday3000 wrote:
Love the Red but be aware that it is a jug fest. Especially up to the 512 range. Gonna have to put in a vote for the New. Lots of variety and some great technical routes.

Both areas are single pitch.
You must be one of the guys who showed up and asked where all the jug hauls were.


dreday3000


Oct 15, 2008, 5:56 AM
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The Red, by and large, is characterized by jug hauls. There are exceptions to be sure, but the combination of soft sandstone and iron ribbons = a lot of jug hauls.

Don't get me wrong, I love the Red and have made many a trip there, but I find more variety + technical climbing at the New.


USnavy


Oct 17, 2008, 1:59 AM
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camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range?

Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico.
There is not a single sport multi-pitch in Red Rocks (unless they made one since I was last there 4 months ago). I heavily researched multi-pitch sport in Red Rocks and found that Unimpeachable Groping was the closest thing to multi-pitch sport Red Rocks had and itís not a sport route. Most of it is bolted but itís not bolted completely all the way though with a maximum of 10 feet between bolts like a real sport route would be.


camhead


Oct 17, 2008, 5:57 AM
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USnavy wrote:
camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range?

Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico.
There is not a single sport multi-pitch in Red Rocks (unless they made one since I was last there 4 months ago). I heavily researched multi-pitch sport in Red Rocks and found that Unimpeachable Groping was the closest thing to multi-pitch sport Red Rocks had and itís not a sport route. Most of it is bolted but itís not bolted completely all the way though with a maximum of 10 feet between bolts like a real sport route would be.

hmm. I could be wrong, sorry.

I don't remember taking any gear on Prince of Darkness, but I could be wrong.


nthusiastj


Oct 17, 2008, 6:08 AM
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camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Are there any areas in the US known for multi-pitch sport in the 10's range?

Redrocks, and if you can get south of the border, Potrero Chico.
There is not a single sport multi-pitch in Red Rocks (unless they made one since I was last there 4 months ago). I heavily researched multi-pitch sport in Red Rocks and found that Unimpeachable Groping was the closest thing to multi-pitch sport Red Rocks had and itís not a sport route. Most of it is bolted but itís not bolted completely all the way though with a maximum of 10 feet between bolts like a real sport route would be.

hmm. I could be wrong, sorry.

I don't remember taking any gear on Prince of Darkness, but I could be wrong.

Black Velvet has some multi sport. I think there may be a 5.6 "approach" pitch though.


nivlac


Oct 17, 2008, 6:32 AM
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USnavy wrote:
So I am thinking of taking my next two-week climbing vacation in March - April. I am trying to figure where I want to go this time. I can lead sport up to 5.11+ so I am looking for some areas that have plenty of routes in that area. Last vacation I went to Red Rocks, Owens River Gorge, J Tree, Malibu Creek, and Echo Cliffs. I found Red Rocks to be the best climbing area by far (short approaches, soft ground, nice routes). But where is the best sport climbing area in the entire USA? Right now I am thinking its Red Rocks, but I have not been to some of the other more famous sport area so I am not entirely sure.

You should consider weather. March-April is getting into the rainy season for the Red and other climbing areas around here.

I still recommend you try to make a trip out here, but be prepared for bad weather/rain. Also, my 2 cents, if you enjoyed sport climbing at Red Rocks, you'll love it at the Red. Plenty of variety. Check out http://redriverclimbing.com.


camhead


Oct 17, 2008, 10:54 AM
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another place just came to mind for multipitch sport, Lime Kiln Canyon:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ge/Lime_Kiln_Canyon/

I've not been there, but in a recent mag article there were some good pics.


USnavy


Oct 21, 2008, 7:42 AM
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nivlac wrote:
USnavy wrote:
So I am thinking of taking my next two-week climbing vacation in March - April. I am trying to figure where I want to go this time. I can lead sport up to 5.11+ so I am looking for some areas that have plenty of routes in that area. Last vacation I went to Red Rocks, Owens River Gorge, J Tree, Malibu Creek, and Echo Cliffs. I found Red Rocks to be the best climbing area by far (short approaches, soft ground, nice routes). But where is the best sport climbing area in the entire USA? Right now I am thinking its Red Rocks, but I have not been to some of the other more famous sport area so I am not entirely sure.

You should consider weather. March-April is getting into the rainy season for the Red and other climbing areas around here.

I still recommend you try to make a trip out here, but be prepared for bad weather/rain. Also, my 2 cents, if you enjoyed sport climbing at Red Rocks, you'll love it at the Red. Plenty of variety. Check out http://redriverclimbing.com.

Well the idea was to hit up the Red Rocks Rendezvous. I was thinking of going from March 27 to April 10th.


mavrick6382


Oct 21, 2008, 8:13 AM
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Enchanted Tower in Datil, NM is awesome. Good mid to hard 11 and 12a/b routes on the actual Tower, and plenty of other grades on other walls. Beautiful camping, a town within 10 minutes to grab supplies/food/water. Two thumbs up for me!

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