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ncrockclimber
Oct 14, 2008, 7:27 PM
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Leaving for a two week stay at EPC in 5 days. We are totally excited!!!
This is our first trip to Mexico, and we would really appreciate some route advice from people who have been there. Specifically, my wife and I are looking for some multi-pitch moderates (5.7 - 5.9). We can climb (I mean "fall up") most 5.10s, but do not want to get in too far over our heads in a multi-pitch environment... Suggestions?
Also, planning on camping at Posada. Any input regarding places to eat and things to do on rest days would be appreciated.
Finally, what is the best guide book. I hear that there are a few available. What is the most recent? Is one substantially better than the other?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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ncrockclimber
Oct 15, 2008, 1:29 AM
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Bump...
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mojomonkey
Oct 15, 2008, 2:38 AM
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I've only been there once, and the lone multipitch route I got on in that range was Crack Test Dummies. This is a 2 pitch 5.9 up one of the spires. It's short, but a blast. The best part is climbing on to the top from the second belay. You get great exposure standing on top of a spire. We stayed on belay and took turns climbing up and downclimbing back to the anchor.
I have some photos and details here, if you are interested. Climb names are in bold with a rating, so skimming over my long windedness shouldn't be too hard.
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8flood8
Oct 15, 2008, 3:43 AM
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any of the guides that are sold will be adequate, both author's books have their flaws and both a pretty accurate. (Can you tell i'm friendly with all the transplanted natives? :) )
anyway, Will the wolf survive is a great 4 pitch at like.... 10b- super exposure and no real danger of having to "fall up it."
Make sure you bring your helmet and just buy whichever guide you run into first. Unless its the old jeff jackson one... There are a ton of great moderate multipitch climbs. Bring a helmet is the best advice i can give you. I don't know if they are still blasting on the other side of the canyon, but the last time i was there i retired a helmet... (and not from falling on it)
The food and water is safe (not sure about the water "in town" but if it is on the same system that the climbing camps are, then yes it is) . There is a market there on tuesdays/fridays with great produce (i still want to get one of those double-burner skillets) and trinkets, cowboy hats etc!
PM PotreroEd he lives there and can give you all of the relevant news. Also learn this word... "caguamas" you'll get by jussssst fine!
But really... this community thrives on climbers, so go down there and be great US ambassadors and then you have a new ultimate-sport-climbing-vaction-destination with a lifetime of rock to explore! You might even accidentally climb a .12 and not know it till you are past the crux (ratings are a bit soft, compared to austin standards)
have fun... i wish i could make a trip down there this year... but school and a new job...sigh...
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potreroed
Oct 15, 2008, 10:10 AM
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Besides Crack Test Dummies there are only two other multi-pitch that go under 5.10. One is called Las Chimuelas (8,9,8), the other Jungle Boy (9++, 7). However, you could also do the first 2 of Yankee Clipper (8,8); the first 3 of Jungle Mountaineering (9,9,9); 4 of Space Boyz (8,9,9+, 9); 2 of Flamingo Wall (8,8+); 3 of Will the Wolf Survive (9,9,9); 4 of Estrellita (9,9,9,8). By the time you do all these you will be more than ready for the 10's.
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ncrockclimber
Oct 15, 2008, 1:11 PM
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Thanks for all the info!!!
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ncrockclimber
Oct 15, 2008, 1:23 PM
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Mojo,
Great trip report! Thanks for the link!
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ccspikes
Oct 15, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 15, 2006
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When you get to La Posada they should have Dane's The Whole Enchilada and Magic Ed's Portrero Select but if you want the best book with all the updated info look for Magic Ed's plain jane Climb El Potrero Chico at Tami's Cafe next door.
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midgetdonkey
Oct 16, 2008, 1:57 PM
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I would say The Whole Enchilada is the best book because it is more up to date and has pictures. It is far from perfect as it has many errors but it's still very functional. This book has lots of suggestions for rest days, info on other campgrounds, where to eat etc. so it answers many of your other questions.
As the previous post says... there's many routes where you can do the lower pitches but I would highly suggest the easy version of Estrellita (very very easy) and Snot Girls, 10d down low with mediocre pitches and great exposure on easier grades up high.
Also note that some pitches are sandbagged... some are soft for the grade... just go for it; it's bolted! Ed's can be a little soft, Dane's can be runout and often get more stars (he's the author), Rick's are pretty good.
You'll meet people that can help you out when you get there too (including me).
Cheers
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ccspikes
Oct 16, 2008, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Aug 15, 2006
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I have to disagree with midgetd--Dane's book is not up to date--there are about 25 newer routes--and it has hundreds of errors, including route grades. People are also misled by his star system which praises his own routes--including the mediocre ones-- and ignores many other much better routes.
The plain jane book will have all the up-to-date info and the Select has the best photos.
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