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Juggy, easy climbs
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joeforte


Oct 21, 2008, 7:47 AM
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Juggy, easy climbs  (North_America: United_States: Kentucky: East: Red_River_Gorge__Climbing_)
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I'll be taking my sister and her boyfriend climbing at the Red, but they are totally inexperienced. I'd like to find a wall of easy pockets and jugs for them to learn on. I can lead trad and setup anchors, so it doesn't have to be a popular or developed area. Just looking for a decent wall of jugs. A short-medium approach would be nice for the Noobs. I've been to the Red several times, and I know my way around fairly well.

Shoot me some suggestions!


corduroyrob


Oct 21, 2008, 8:01 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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try this for RRG specific questions
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/
but id suggest
Southern reg. (no small cars)
muir valley (no dogs)


granite_grrl


Oct 21, 2008, 8:02 AM
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Re: [corduroyrob] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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corduroyrob wrote:
try this for RRG specific questions
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/
but id suggest
Southern reg. (no small cars)
muir valley (no dogs)
Sure...and then just follow the corwds. :roll:


drfelatio


Oct 21, 2008, 8:21 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
corduroyrob wrote:
try this for RRG specific questions
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/
but id suggest
Southern reg. (no small cars)
muir valley (no dogs)
Sure...and then just follow the corwds. :roll:

Tough to avoid the crowds when you're looking for a decent amount of easy sport and/or trad routes as the OP seems to be.

Definitely check out Muir Valley. In particular, look at Bruisebrothers Wall and Practice Wall. High concentration of sub-10 climbs...and sub-10 climbers.

Also, Johnny's Wall/Tectonic Wall and Great Wall (still at Muir) both have a fair amount of easy-to-moderate climbs.

And there's always Eureka (5.6) at Global Village (which also has some easy trad routes), the slab at the end of Roadside (7s, 8s, and 9s), and a few easy sport and trad routes at Pistol Ridge.


joeforte


Oct 21, 2008, 2:15 PM
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Re: [drfelatio] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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I'm not looking for easy sport, or crowds. I can find them with my guidebook. Something obscure and overlooked is what I'm looking for. Something so easy and juggy that guidebooks would leave out. Something 5.0-5.5ish. I don't think they would have much luck with the stuff at the end of roadside. 5.7 is getting a little too tough for the first time, timid, and for the most part non-outdoorsy type.


a_dumb_fake_name


Oct 22, 2008, 7:44 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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there are a few climbs that are not in the guidebook to the left of Lowered Expecatations (which is in the guidebook in an area I think is called left field). It's not usually crowded.


ddansby1


Oct 22, 2008, 7:53 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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Bruise Brothers wall would be some of what you are looking for.


lodi5onu


Oct 22, 2008, 10:30 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I'm not looking for easy sport, or crowds. I can find them with my guidebook. Something obscure and overlooked is what I'm looking for. Something so easy and juggy that guidebooks would leave out. Something 5.0-5.5ish. I don't think they would have much luck with the stuff at the end of roadside. 5.7 is getting a little too tough for the first time, timid, and for the most part non-outdoorsy type.

LMAO...why the fuck would you take these ppl to the red?


drfelatio


Oct 22, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I'm not looking for easy sport, or crowds. I can find them with my guidebook. Something obscure and overlooked is what I'm looking for. Something so easy and juggy that guidebooks would leave out. Something 5.0-5.5ish. I don't think they would have much luck with the stuff at the end of roadside. 5.7 is getting a little too tough for the first time, timid, and for the most part non-outdoorsy type.

Ellington's guidebook is pretty damned comprehensive from what I understand. If it's an established route at the Red, it'll be in there even if it's an obscure and overlooked 5.0 - 5.5. Otherwise, you're talking about bushwhacking and/or looking for new climbs and I can't help you there (and why would you want to take the "non-outdoorsy" type on that kind of an adventure anyway?).

Also, you can't have your cake and eat it too. If you want easy climbs with short approaches you're likely to get crowds. There are tons of other people just like you looking for the same thing you are. Chances are, you're all going to find it in the same place.

Again, Practice Wall seems like a good place to start as does Bruisebrothers. Short, easy climbs, but there will be crowds. Fortress is a good beginning trad area, but I think it'd give them more problems than the stuff at Practice or Bruisebros.

Check out the Advanced Search feature in the redriverclimbing.com online guidebook and go from there. Good luck.


timmay


Oct 22, 2008, 11:33 AM
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Re: [drfelatio] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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I will second taking people to Pistol Ridge. I have taken a group of beginners out there and it is a 10-15 minute hike (typical red river gorge approach) with a 5.7 jug haul and a 5.8 right next to it. There are also a couple of easy trad climbs right there as well. If they are doing well on those, you can always have them try It's a Wonderful Life (5.9+). The nice thing is there is almost never a crowd out there. Good luck.


joeforte


Oct 22, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Re: [lodi5onu] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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lodi5onu wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I'm not looking for easy sport, or crowds. I can find them with my guidebook. Something obscure and overlooked is what I'm looking for. Something so easy and juggy that guidebooks would leave out. Something 5.0-5.5ish. I don't think they would have much luck with the stuff at the end of roadside. 5.7 is getting a little too tough for the first time, timid, and for the most part non-outdoorsy type.

LMAO...why the fuck would you take these ppl to the red?

Because she just got a job and moved 45 mins from the Red. I have been to the Red a few times before, but I was not looking for 5.0's for a beginner. I did recall seeing tons of faces that were so pocketed and slabby, that nobody even bothered cleaning or climbing them. Don't worry, we won't be on anything with lines...

Thanks for the fucking concern though...


drfelatio


Oct 22, 2008, 10:39 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:

Because she just got a job and moved 45 mins from the Red. I have been to the Red a few times before, but I was not looking for 5.0's for a beginner. I did recall seeing tons of faces that were so pocketed and slabby, that nobody even bothered cleaning or climbing them. Don't worry, we won't be on anything with lines...

Thanks for the fucking concern though...

Well how do you plan to climb them? Are they bolted? Are they close enough to other established lines that you can set up a TR on them? Will they take gear?

I'm also wondering who, out of your group of noobs, is going to belay you on lead during your adventure?

It sounds like you don't really need/want our help since it seems like you have some place in mind already.


lodi5onu


Oct 23, 2008, 4:42 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
lodi5onu wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I'm not looking for easy sport, or crowds. I can find them with my guidebook. Something obscure and overlooked is what I'm looking for. Something so easy and juggy that guidebooks would leave out. Something 5.0-5.5ish. I don't think they would have much luck with the stuff at the end of roadside. 5.7 is getting a little too tough for the first time, timid, and for the most part non-outdoorsy type.

LMAO...why the fuck would you take these ppl to the red?

Because she just got a job and moved 45 mins from the Red. I have been to the Red a few times before, but I was not looking for 5.0's for a beginner. I did recall seeing tons of faces that were so pocketed and slabby, that nobody even bothered cleaning or climbing them. Don't worry, we won't be on anything with lines...

Thanks for the fucking concern though...

I'm not too concerned. I just didn't think it sounded like they would have a real good time. That's all.


joeforte


Oct 23, 2008, 6:16 AM
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Re: [drfelatio] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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drfelatio wrote:
Well how do you plan to climb them? Are they bolted? Are they close enough to other established lines that you can set up a TR on them? Will they take gear?

I'm also wondering who, out of your group of noobs, is going to belay you on lead during your adventure?

It sounds like you don't really need/want our help since it seems like you have some place in mind already.

Normally I wouldn't bother defending an issue like this, but geeze, whats with all the asshole comments? I don't need an internet mom to ask me who "out of my group of noobs" will be belaying me. My experienced father will be belaying me. He has been belaying me for years.

Why do they have to be established or bolted in order for them to be climbable or topropeable? Has climbing lost all of it's adventure? I climb unestablished lines all the time in the dacks and the whites, it's really not that big of a deal. I will lead them on gear, build my own anchor, and if I have to, I'll walk off. And as for my "group of noobs", my sister is the only one that has never climbed, and she is curious about trying it out. Wow, what's the harm in that?

I was just looking for a local to tell me where I could find a juggy, plain-jane, less-than vertical wall. Something that is overlooked by most climbers because it would be too boring or monotonous for anyone but a complete beginner. The kind of stuff they leave out of guidebooks.

As to everyone else, thanks for the suggestions. The Red has such an abundance of fantastic rock that I'm sure we'll have a good time!


lena_chita
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Oct 24, 2008, 12:47 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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Wow, you are just 45 min from the Red now! We should climb together again sometime.

As far as finding easy routes, go to this link;

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/search.php

Type in whatever grade you want, and any other parameters, and search away.

If you want good-quality lines at easy grades, they are bound to be in the popular/crowded spots, especially if it is a sport line.

For a high concentration of easy sprt lines go to Roadside, bruise brothers, Practice wall.

For trad in 5.2-5.7 range, go to Fortress wall, Lady Slipper-Global village, Muscle Beach, Pebble Beach or Pistol Ridge. They all have at least 5 routes under 5.7, which (my guess) would be more then enough for one day for new people.


sidepull


Oct 24, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
Normally I wouldn't bother defending an issue like this, but geeze, whats with all the asshole comments?

something about a pot and a kettle rings true here ... I forget how it goes.

joeforte wrote:
I don't need an internet mom to ask me who "out of my group of noobs" will be belaying me. My experienced father will be belaying me. He has been belaying me for years.

HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
[rest - catch breath]
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
[sigh, sigh, sigh]

I need to read more greek tragedy - I forgot how broadly applicable it is.


knieveltech


Oct 24, 2008, 2:22 PM
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Re: [sidepull] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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sidepull wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Normally I wouldn't bother defending an issue like this, but geeze, whats with all the asshole comments?

something about a pot and a kettle rings true here ... I forget how it goes.

joeforte wrote:
I don't need an internet mom to ask me who "out of my group of noobs" will be belaying me. My experienced father will be belaying me. He has been belaying me for years.

HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
[rest - catch breath]
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa
[sigh, sigh, sigh]


I need to read more greek tragedy - I forgot how broadly applicable it is.


Hey sidepull, this isn't directed right at you, just throwing my two cents into the thread.

WTF. Dude's just trying to get a day in a the fucking crag with a n00b in tow. What's really impressive here is he's specifically looking for areas where he won't be tying up lines. What's with all the nonsense?

To the OP: I'd help if I could, I've been to the Red exactly once and don't know much about the place. If you ever find yourself in NC I will cheerfully volunteer to guide you and any noobs you might have in tow to as much low angle dirty choss as you'd care to throw a toprope on.


sidepull


Oct 25, 2008, 9:41 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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Knieveltech,

No offense taken - I appreciate your willingness to help the OP. My read of the thread is that one person made a slightly off-color comment and Joe was ready to escalate immediately and then kept on escalating things.

This is like any internet flame war - people get their panties in a bunch over statements that are easily misinterpretted or by seeing the worst intentions in something likely filled with good intentions (e.g. read the comment about who was going to belay Joe - I don't think this was derogatory but that's how Joe reacted). I was simply trying to point out the inherent humor in the miscommunication in the thread. If you don't think his response was at least as out of line (if not more so) than what he was receiving that's fine. But you have to admit the "mom-dad" comment is classic (otherwise I wouldn't have cared) - Sophocles would be proud (although the plot is sort of reversed in this scenario).

Take care!


mike_devildog


Oct 25, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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Welcome to RC.com, I would say the majority of the posts on here are from assholes who dont give a fuck, just looking to stir up shit with people they think are Noobs, or taking Noobs out to climb, or any new Noob subject matter..Good luck finding some useful info! By the way..Muir valley would be a good place, or just check out redriverclimbing.com
Wink


joeforte


Oct 25, 2008, 2:59 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
Hey sidepull, this isn't directed right at you, just throwing my two cents into the thread.

WTF. Dude's just trying to get a day in a the fucking crag with a n00b in tow. What's really impressive here is he's specifically looking for areas where he won't be tying up lines. What's with all the nonsense?

To the OP: I'd help if I could, I've been to the Red exactly once and don't know much about the place. If you ever find yourself in NC I will cheerfully volunteer to guide you and any noobs you might have in tow to as much low angle dirty choss as you'd care to throw a toprope on.

Thanks knieveltech, I didn't think I was asking so much. I should have known what to expect from these guys. Don't worry sidepull and Mr. Felacio, I won't tie up any of your bolted 5.6s. I climb trad, even when there isn't a line of chalk and a bolted anchor on top.


captainstatic


Oct 31, 2008, 11:39 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Juggy, easy climbs [In reply to]
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As someone who has taught climbing in RRG, I would also recommend Pistol Ridge as an excellent choice for beginners.


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