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james_va
Oct 21, 2008, 10:14 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2008
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Wondering if this would be good to take beginners up to get some exposure on easy ground.
The guidebook says it's "tremendously exposed, with much loose rock," though, so I'm mainly interested in how good the protection is.
If anybody can let me know one way or the other, I'd be grateful.
Many thanks,
-James
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climboard
Oct 25, 2008, 4:11 PM
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I have not climbed this route but I have been on the north summit ridge and it is extremely loose and no place for beginners.
I have only seen one party on this route in many years of climbing at Seneca and they managed to cause quite a bit of rockfall in an area with some popular routes below.
If you are looking to introduce beginners to multi-pitch at Seneca there are numerous better options. Here are a few suggestions-
Conn's West
Ecstasy Junior
Gunsight to South Peak
Le Gourmet
Old Ladies' Route
Old Man's Route
Skyline Traverse (be careful of loose rock on the last pitch)
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wallmonkey35
Oct 25, 2008, 4:39 PM
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Good, solid advice climboard...I agreed. Go do Old Man's for a beginner's route.
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charley
Oct 25, 2008, 5:42 PM
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Check out worrells thicket. A 5.0 that easily angles up the east side of the south peak. It puts you on lower broadway and you can scramble up to luncheon ledge and do either old ladies or old mans if you want to summit. Worrells is 170 feet but I think it could be made into two pitches.
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stagg54
Oct 25, 2008, 7:00 PM
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Having done this route, I would say stay away unless you have a death wish. Lots of loose rock. Lots of runout traversing with shitty gear and lost of shit to hit on the way down. It may be perhaps the world's most dangerous 5.0 No kidding.
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stagg54
Oct 25, 2008, 7:05 PM
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oh and I forgot the tourons on top knocking shit down on you.
Seriously, there are so many other good beginner routes at Seneca, why bother.
Ecstasy Junior comes to mind as good one.
Le gourmet is also a good one.
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james_va
Oct 25, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2008
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Wow. Thanks, guys. Very glad I asked.
I'll skip that route, per your advice.
Worrell's Thicket to Lower Broadway seems cool and an alternative to Stairmaster (though you're putting in the vertical all the same).
Anyhow, thanks again, and very glad to have these forums.
If you're still around, two related questions:
1-What's the best way specifically to connect w/Luncheon Ledge from Lower Broadway? Can you scramble around Humphrey's Head, or maybe just take one of the easy climbs the guidebook indicates that seem to put you in that direction?
2-Speaking of exposure on easy routes, how would you compare the fear factors of Gunsight to South Peak vs. Skyline Traverse?
Thanks again for your help.
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MikeSaint
Oct 25, 2008, 9:00 PM
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You wouldnt happen to be part of that Climber Outing Group of Pittsburgh or something would you? Because the last time those folks went out one of our boys here had an awesome story to tell.
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wallmonkey35
Oct 25, 2008, 9:20 PM
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James,
Yes, Worrell's Thicket to the Broadway ledges makes for a fine begineers climb. I also find it safer than hiking up to the Lower Broadway ledges. It tends to be steep and fourth class, best for more confident climbers. Anywho, as for your questions:
I am not sure what would be the safest way to go when getting to Luncheon Ledge, maybe by reversing old ladies route. It is possible to sneak around Humphrey's Head, but you must go past it, and the moves around from the east to the west face are not beginner material. Any chance of Summiting via Gunsight to south peak and rapping off the front side??
As as far as the routes go, Gunsight to South Peak definitely gets and E for exposed. It is a great route, with a lot of ass in space climbing. Skyline Traverse is a little less exposed, but traverses across a ledge that is located directly above many popular routes (south end climbs, drop zone area) and that always has loose rocks on it, which many new climbers fumble off onto parties down below. If you decide to to this climb ( and a good route it is) please warn the beginner about the dangers of kicking off rocks.
Hope this helps!
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stagg54
Oct 26, 2008, 3:03 PM
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james_va wrote: Wow. Thanks, guys. Very glad I asked. I'll skip that route, per your advice. Worrell's Thicket to Lower Broadway seems cool and an alternative to Stairmaster (though you're putting in the vertical all the same). Anyhow, thanks again, and very glad to have these forums. If you're still around, two related questions: 1-What's the best way specifically to connect w/Luncheon Ledge from Lower Broadway? Can you scramble around Humphrey's Head, or maybe just take one of the easy climbs the guidebook indicates that seem to put you in that direction? 2-Speaking of exposure on easy routes, how would you compare the fear factors of Gunsight to South Peak vs. Skyline Traverse? Thanks again for your help.
1. You can scramble directly from Lower Broadway around to Luncheon Ledge. It's about 1o vertical feet and then you walk along a ledge for 10 or 15'. Might be hard to find if you have never done it and definitely not for beginners as a fall there would not be pretty. You could belay it, but its only 10 ft (of 5.0-) so its hardly worth it.
2. Skyline - 1 exposed move.
Gunsight - exposure the whole way
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james_va
Oct 26, 2008, 8:09 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2008
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Many thanks. You've all given me some great options.
Mike, I'm not in that climbing club, but I did notice that there seemed to be a good-sized group of Pittsburgh climbers there, along with some other groups, last weekend... quite a party :)
Thanks again to all.
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