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cacalderon
Oct 27, 2008, 5:50 PM
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I have four days to climb at the RED and want to try some good sport routes between 5.9 and 5.12 range.
Suggestions are most welcome.
Thanks.
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crazy_fingers84
Oct 27, 2008, 6:17 PM
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The Tectonic Wall in Muir Valley has has a handful of quality 5.10's, well worth a visit. Have fun at the Red!
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p0bray01
Oct 27, 2008, 6:27 PM
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To defy the laws of Tradition
Annie the Anihillator
Send Me on my way
Its a Wonderful Life
Straight Edge
Sex Show
Pocket Pussy
Poopie Head
Creature Feature
Girls Gone Wild WHOOOO
Ro Shampo
Possum Lips
Critter on the Cliff
Rat Stew
Return of Manimal
Central Scrutinizer
ArrowHead (trad but if you have a set of nuts or tricams, it protects easily) 
That should keep ya busy for a whillleeee ;)
(This post was edited by p0bray01 on Oct 27, 2008, 6:28 PM)
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crackmeup
Oct 27, 2008, 6:39 PM
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I only tried a handful of routes there (quick two-day visit) but I thought Prime Directive at Funk Rock City was the best one.
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wishiwasamonkey
Oct 27, 2008, 7:11 PM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2006
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My favourites:
Lip service
yellow brick road
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 27, 2008, 7:12 PM
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So, 4 days-- that means 4 crags.
I would pick:
Drive-by:
Best 5.10c at the Red-- Breakfast Burrito, plus a high concentration high quality routes, such as:
Fire and Brimstone .10d
Whipstocking 11a
Yada yada 11b
Spirit Fingers 11c
Check your grip 12a
Primus Noctum 12a
(there are more routes there, but if you go there for just one day, and do all of the above, you will be very satisfied)
Check your Grip
Military Wall:
2 nice 5.9s -- Sunshine and Moonbeam
Nice 5.10 ( Into the light-- 10c, and a 10d slab next to Fuzzy undercling)
BEAUTIFUL must-do 11b (Fuzzy Undercling)
3 Great 5.12bs right next to Fuzzy
Forearm Folies 11d/12b and
Another Doug Reed Route 10c/11b, depending on how you climb it.
If you still have time, walk to the right side for great 5.11s, such as All Things Considered-- slab 11d.
Left Flank:
To Defy the law of Tradition-- one of the best 5.10a at the Red, IMO.
Another 5.10 and a 5.9 I think-- O.K., nothing special
Nice 5.11s (Aquaduck Pocket and Hen-ry! -- 11b but scary (IMO)
Fun easy 5.12a --Wild yet Tasty
Great but hard-for-the-grade 5.12a Too Many Puppies
Very good 5.12b-- Mercy the Huff
Gallery:
-left side:
Da Vinci's left ear 10b, and another 5.10b?
Random Precision 11b
Different Strokes 11c-- I highly recommend this one!
Gold Rush 11d (have not done this one, but I want to)
-right side:
27 years of climbing 5.8
Brief history of climbing 5.10c
Murano 10c
Happy trails 10b (scary as hell, and IMO harder than many 11s)
The king lives on 10a
Johny B good--a gimmicky warmup 5.11a, but very enjoyable.
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chossmonkey
Oct 28, 2008, 3:36 PM
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lena_chita wrote: So, 4 days-- that means 4 crags. I would pick: Drive-by: Best 5.10c at the Red-- Breakfast Burrito, plus a high concentration high quality routes, such as: Fire and Brimstone .10d Whipstocking 11a Yada yada 11b Spirit Fingers 11c Check your grip 12a Primus Noctum 12a (there are more routes there, but if you go there for just one day, and do all of the above, you will be very satisfied) Check your Grip Military Wall: 2 nice 5.9s -- Sunshine and Moonbeam Nice 5.10 ( Into the light-- 10c, and a 10d slab next to Fuzzy undercling) BEAUTIFUL must-do 11b (Fuzzy Undercling) 3 Great 5.12bs right next to Fuzzy Forearm Folies 11d/12b and Another Doug Reed Route 10c/11b, depending on how you climb it. If you still have time, walk to the right side for great 5.11s, such as All Things Considered-- slab 11d. Left Flank: To Defy the law of Tradition-- one of the best 5.10a at the Red, IMO. Another 5.10 and a 5.9 I think-- O.K., nothing special Nice 5.11s (Aquaduck Pocket and Hen-ry! -- 11b but scary (IMO) Fun easy 5.12a --Wild yet Tasty Great but hard-for-the-grade 5.12a Too Many Puppies Very good 5.12b-- Mercy the Huff Gallery: -left side: Da Vinci's left ear 10b, and another 5.10b? Random Precision 11b Different Strokes 11c-- I highly recommend this one! Gold Rush 11d (have not done this one, but I want to) -right side: 27 years of climbing 5.8 Brief history of climbing 5.10c Murano 10c Happy trails 10b (scary as hell, and IMO harder than many 11s) The king lives on 10a Johny B good--a gimmicky warmup 5.11a, but very enjoyable.
I would add Break the Scene at the Gallery. The book doesn't give it a high star rating but it is very good. The book calls it 12b but it is more consensus 12a, maybe even 11d if you have a trad back ground.
Forearm Follies is classic RRG jug hauling. The bottom is well worth doing but if you onsight that you might as well take it to the top. The top is big holds, big moves and all pump. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
Check out http://www.redriverclimbing.com if you haven't
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cacalderon
Nov 3, 2008, 8:58 AM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2006
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Thanks! this is great info, gives me a place to start.... appreciate the feedback.
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granite_grrl
Nov 3, 2008, 9:08 AM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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I would also agree that Lena's list is good. On our last trip we spent 4 or 5 days off the Sore Heel parking lot, with two days at The Gallery. If you get a chance before/after The Gallery continue down to Bronaugh wall and hop on Like a Turtle (11b).
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