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appleby93
Oct 28, 2008, 5:02 PM
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Im from Kansas City, and as you can figure we don't have much as it goes for climbing just a couple 75 feet crags on a lake. I have experience top roping. Is there any place to do some top roping near scottsdale or more specifically pennacle peak while here on a trip? Would appreciate your response. Thanks.
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bkboyd
Oct 28, 2008, 6:09 PM
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Many of the routes at Pinnacle Peak require you to lead first to set up a TR. There are other routes where you can walk up to the top, but you need gear to build an anchor. There are a couple of 5.10 slabs and a 5.7 near the AMC boulder that you set up using just slings.
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lvpyne
Oct 28, 2008, 7:00 PM
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Watch out for snakes! 
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appleby93
Oct 29, 2008, 7:41 AM
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Thanks for your help.I will have to check it out. And is there a legite snake problem even at this time of year?
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lvpyne
Oct 29, 2008, 7:49 AM
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appleby93 wrote: And is there a legite snake problem even at this time of year?
There are definitely rattlesnakes, cactus, gila monsters, chuckawallas, coyotes, javalina, and other really cool plants and animals at Pinnacle Peak. And I have run into many rattlesnakes at Pinnacle Peak (mostly while climbing with the other poster) at all times of the year.
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anthonymason
Oct 30, 2008, 7:22 AM
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If you are going to Pinnacle peak park there several areas that you can TR at. The lower east wall/satan's slab/knob wall are off limits and had the greatest amount of TR's at the site, these areas are on private land so don't even think of going there,you might get arrested.
But there are fine areas within the park to tr, you will need a small rack and a cordelette or 2, since most of the anchors will be built by you.
Pinnacle peak has never been an area of pure sport climbs, instead it has had a mix of Trad/sport/adventure/sandbagging climbing.
As for minimal gear I would go over to the cactus flower area it has routes ranging from the mid 6's to 5.11 and is easily set up to Tr, one note the rock can be a little chossy. 24 lines/routes in this area.
The other area is on the main trail to the amc boulder it is called the loafers choice slab it has a 5.10 and .7 on it, they are long routes on glossy granite.
One thing to note one of the main route setters back in the 80's, he had promised his wife not climb/set routes harder than 5.6, he was a 5.12/.13 climber. So out to the desert he went and put up routes and called them 5.6-5.7. So if you are getting you're ass kicked on a easy 5.6 these may be one of those routes, then again you just might suck. LOL
Good luck
Anthony
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crimpandgo
Oct 30, 2008, 7:59 AM
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lvpyne wrote: appleby93 wrote: And is there a legite snake problem even at this time of year? There are definitely rattlesnakes, cactus, gila monsters, chuckawallas, coyotes, javalina, and other really cool plants and animals at Pinnacle Peak. And I have run into many rattlesnakes at Pinnacle Peak (mostly while climbing with the other poster) at all times of the year.
Yeah.... BUT... most of these are not animals you are gonna see regularly .. specially at Pinnacle Peak.
Snakes are definitely an issue. this time of year is even worse cause they are gonna be out sunning trying to get warmth. Wear good (protective) hiking boots and watch where you put you hands and you should be good to go.
I have seen many snakes as we have been trail hopping, but as long as you dont mess with them, they usually wont mess with you.
To add to the list above, you can also find turantulas. Not really scary, but kind of cool to look at.
The other problem to watch out for out here is bees. Pinnacle Peak is notorious for have bee problems on the climbs up near the actual peak.
(This post was edited by crimpandgo on Oct 30, 2008, 8:01 AM)
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appleby93
Nov 4, 2008, 5:31 AM
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Thanks for all the help. How about TR in the superstitions? and are the superstitions granite?
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zeke_sf
Nov 4, 2008, 6:28 AM
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appleby93 wrote: Thanks for all the help. How about TR in the superstitions? and are the superstitions granite?
I've never been there but my understanding is the Supes are solidified mud. If you are willing to go that far, you'd be better off going a little further to Queen Creek. Of course, you'd have to sport climb there because I don't believe there are that many pure TR walkups there.
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sonso45
Nov 4, 2008, 10:42 AM
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The Supes are not mud, they're rhyolite, a volcanic rock. The TR possibilites are endless but it's known for longer adventure routes and old sport climbs (no TRs).
Queen Creek does have some potential TRs but most folks just clip bolts.
Generally, you would have to climb to set a TR at any of the areas mentioned. Or you can hire a guide to ensure your enjoyment and safety.
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zeke_sf
Nov 4, 2008, 11:54 AM
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sonso45 wrote: The Supes are not mud, they're rhyolite, a volcanic rock. The TR possibilites are endless but it's known for longer adventure routes and old sport climbs (no TRs).
Yeah, I've never been there. I hear it's pretty chossy as well, is that true? It does keep up the adventure level, I suppose ;)
I've heard rumblings of the mountaineering clubs around here having trips as well where TRs are set up... don't know anything specific though.
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sonso45
Nov 4, 2008, 12:24 PM
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You have to choose your routes carefully in the Supes. True, it is chossy but not bad enough that you can't safely climb on it. Some even feels close to basalt but it may be preceded by choss.
I have climbed there for years; not lately though. If you go for adventure, you won't be disappointed. The best rock seems to be located near the higher elevations and north-facing rock, not sure why.
I know of at least one death and a some injuries when a new-ish guide set up a TR on Bark's Canyon Wall and the large loose block he slung came off.
With that in mind, it's best to tread lightly and know your rock. Try the following areas for the better rock, but not much TRing:
Flatiron
Bark's Canyon Wall
Acropolis
The Hand
Crying Dinosaur
Zonerland
Degrazia
(This post was edited by sonso45 on Nov 4, 2008, 12:27 PM)
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secretagent
Nov 5, 2008, 1:24 AM
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You might wanna try Echo Canyon at Camleback Mountain
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sonso45
Nov 6, 2008, 9:22 AM
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Echo Canyon is mud. Hard enough to climb but you need to wear a helmet due to the constant barrage of pebbles and such. The Headwall has routes you could TR but first you have to get to the top. A couple of easy routes are there and a 4th class on the north arete will do that. Check the routes DB for info.
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climbaddic
Nov 6, 2008, 10:10 AM
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zeke_sf wrote: you'd be better off going a little further to Queen Creek. Of course, you'd have to sport climb there because I don't believe there are that many pure TR walkups there.
Actually, Queen Creek has bunch of routes you can walk up and setup TR. It is certainly the right time of the year to check out Queen Creek. Check out the Mine areas. It is super easy to walk up. Upper/Lower Looner have bunch routes that you can put TR. You can also easily move anchors in mine area. Also, you can check out the Pancake house as well. Marty Karabine sells fold out to Queen Creek for like $2-3 range. It is worth getting.
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zeke_sf
Nov 6, 2008, 10:12 AM
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climbaddic wrote: zeke_sf wrote: you'd be better off going a little further to Queen Creek. Of course, you'd have to sport climb there because I don't believe there are that many pure TR walkups there. Actually, Queen Creek has bunch of routes you can walk up and setup TR. It is certainly the right time of the year to check out Queen Creek. Check out the Mine areas. It is super easy to walk up. Upper/Lower Looner have bunch routes that you can put TR. You can also easily move anchors in mine area. Also, you can check out the Pancake house as well. Marty Karabine sells fold out to Queen Creek for like $2-3 range. It is worth getting.
Good info.. I've only been to the Pond, so I did not know that.
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sonso45
Dec 3, 2008, 1:44 PM
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Right, I should pay more attention to the Mine area. The new road in there is a huge change. Need to see if it gets you to the Leap.
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