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Millard Falls Climb?
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beta-boy


Jul 20, 2008, 4:57 PM
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Millard Falls Climb?  (North_America: United_States: California: Los_Angeles_County)
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Looking for any info on the obvious bolted route up the overhanging face left of the waterfall.

It looks steep and hard ... and the bolts and anchor look good.

Has any done this route? How hard is it? When was it put in? Are the bolts and anchors as good as they look?

Thanks!


pizlou


Oct 28, 2008, 9:52 PM
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Re: [beta-boy] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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I live right in Altadena and I've seen those bolts for at least 6 years (at least). I started climbing a few years ago and I've tried (without gear) to do the first two moves in several spots. So hard (for me). The granite is all so polished. I'm 5' 7". Maybe for a taller person?? The bolts almost look like they've never had quick draws in them, no scratches. I'm going to go up there with my brother and try it with gear sometime though.


beta-boy


Oct 29, 2008, 12:18 AM
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Re: [pizlou] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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Bolts aren't scratched up because I'm sure very few people ever do this route.

Given the angle and the nature of the rock, I'd have to say this route looks pretty stout. Anywhere from 5.11 to 5.13 stout. I'm six feet and I had to use a cheater block to start the opening move. I have no idea what the upper sections are like, but the start is very bouldery.

There's a chance once you get past the start that holds and stances start to appear -- but it remains vertical to overhanging the whole way. My best guess is ... this bad boy is probably in the 5.12 range.

I'll eventually get out there with someone and suss it out.


tripperjm


Oct 29, 2008, 4:06 AM
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Re: [beta-boy] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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beta-boy wrote:
Looking for any info on the obvious bolted route up the overhanging face left of the waterfall.

It looks steep and hard ... and the bolts and anchor look good.

Has any done this route? How hard is it? When was it put in? Are the bolts and anchors as good as they look?

Thanks!

The route was an old aid ladder that was rebolted about 3 years ago to become a free lead and is an unconfirmed 12+. The start is the crux and get easier after that.


socalclimber


Oct 29, 2008, 4:54 AM
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Re: [tripperjm] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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There are 2 old aid lines there. The obvious one, which sounds l like it is now gone, and one to the right. The one two the right is A2 if I can remember correctly. Haven't been there in years.

Jack, is it possible to aid the new 12+ line any more? Kinda too bad if not, it was a great route new aid climbers to learn a little about manky ladders.


tripperjm


Oct 30, 2008, 5:23 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
Jack, is it possible to aid the new 12+ line any more? Kinda too bad if not, it was a great route new aid climbers to learn a little about manky ladders.

I didn't bolt the line. I suppose you could aid it. You could also climb it A1 5.11 or A1 5.10. I'm surprised you don't know about it though. John posted the info including pics on Todd's site right after he bolted it. If you want to practice manky bolt ladders, there are plenty of them in socal.


socalclimber


Oct 30, 2008, 5:34 PM
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Re: [tripperjm] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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Thanks, I haven't been to Millard in over 10 years. I have been living here in Josh for that duration. A long time ago it was a great place to play if you were totaly new to aid.

Cool deal. And yes, SoCal has no shortage of manky crap to play aid on.

Thanks again!


Tfish


Feb 2, 2009, 2:04 PM
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Re: [beta-boy] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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I hiked up there today and was wondering if anyone has top roped on the right side of the falls? Theres a trail that goes to the top and would be a super easy set up. It also looks easier than the route on the other side of the falls.


beta-boy


Feb 2, 2009, 6:13 PM
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Re: [Tfish] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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Tfish wrote:
I hiked up there today and was wondering if anyone has top roped on the right side of the falls? Theres a trail that goes to the top and would be a super easy set up. It also looks easier than the route on the other side of the falls.


I think you might find you'd be in for more than you want if you took the higher trail to set up the TR.

Access from the higher trail (which leads into Millard Canyon proper) is sketchy with a lot of loose rock and dirt. I took a quick look with that idea in mind and didn't see any obvious places for gear that would be anything better than manky at best.

Still, I didn't fully check it out. Just scrambling down to find an anchor point was scary enough. In fact, I wouldn't bother unless I had an anchor ABOVE so I could scramble/rap down to find an anchor point.


Tfish


Feb 2, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Re: [beta-boy] Millard Falls Climb? [In reply to]
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Hiking to the top is way easy, theres a sketchy trail right next to the wall and then theres another trail a little further down marked by a white post. But yeah I'd want to set an anchor above but there isn't much, thats why I was wondering if anyone had done it.


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