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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 3:24 PM
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I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions?
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taydude
Oct 30, 2008, 3:57 PM
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me too brother, although I prefer tight fingers
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chossmonkey
Oct 30, 2008, 4:44 PM
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knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams.
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 4:50 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. Naw, I have a pair of carhardts for the wide shit.
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petsfed
Oct 30, 2008, 4:51 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al?
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 5:07 PM
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petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet?
(This post was edited by knieveltech on Oct 30, 2008, 5:09 PM)
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irregularpanda
Oct 30, 2008, 5:18 PM
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knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Speaking of crack machines, you don't want a public one in a gym. You'll make it just how you want it, people will complain and bitch and moan "jamming hurts my hands, wahhh". And then tommy lee will try the crack, bleed all over it, and give your entire climbing community hepatitis C.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 30, 2008, 5:23 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Speaking of crack machines, you don't want a public one in a gym. You'll make it just how you want it, people will complain and bitch and moan "jamming hurts my hands, wahhh". And then tommy lee will try the crack, bleed all over it, and give your entire climbing community hepatitis C. My gym is actually bulding a crack wall by using real rock tiles that would normally be used in places like gardens for walkways and such. I think the tiles are a little different than that, but it's the same idea. They're building a smooth hand crack, a rough hand crack, and likely fist and / or something wider, too. Construction is slow going, but it still looks like it will be an attraction once its done.
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irregularpanda
Oct 30, 2008, 5:28 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: irregularpanda wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Speaking of crack machines, you don't want a public one in a gym. You'll make it just how you want it, people will complain and bitch and moan "jamming hurts my hands, wahhh". And then tommy lee will try the crack, bleed all over it, and give your entire climbing community hepatitis C. My gym is actually bulding a crack wall by using real rock tiles that would normally be used in places like gardens for walkways and such. I think the tiles are a little different than that, but it's the same idea. They're building a smooth hand crack, a rough hand crack, and likely fist and / or something wider, too. Construction is slow going, but it still looks like it will be an attraction once its done. Get on the hepatitis C train. Woo Woo!
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petsfed
Oct 30, 2008, 5:29 PM
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knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Yeah, but the wall's got me workin' so much that I can't even get out on the good days. Next time you're out here, I'll have to take you out to the Short Wall. There's a route there called Jay's Solo, which has got to be one of the most difficult offwidths I've managed to ooze to the top of. Its like Big Pink's little brother.
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 5:37 PM
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petsfed wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Yeah, but the wall's got me workin' so much that I can't even get out on the good days. Next time you're out here, I'll have to take you out to the Short Wall. There's a route there called Jay's Solo, which has got to be one of the most difficult offwidths I've managed to ooze to the top of. Its like Big Pink's little brother. Damn, that sounds two parts awesome, two parts utterly horrifying. Can't wait to see it. Might end up spending next season in Laramie. Way too soon to call though.
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 5:41 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Speaking of crack machines, you don't want a public one in a gym. You'll make it just how you want it, people will complain and bitch and moan "jamming hurts my hands, wahhh". And then tommy lee will try the crack, bleed all over it, and give your entire climbing community hepatitis C. Yeah, that's a real concern. I make a point to tape to hell and back before jamming anything in the gym. So far this has managed to stave off any major illness due to ground in gym funk. As far as people bitching about jams goes, fuck em. There's an entire gym of toprope, lead climbs, and bouldering for them to amuse themselves with. Meanwhile some of us would like to train crack technique and doing it in the gym beats hell out of running from the cops, hep c not withstanding.
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petsfed
Oct 30, 2008, 5:44 PM
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knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm looking for crack climbs in NC, splitter if possible, wide preferred, ideally topropable. Any suggestions? Are you looking to ruin your Lycra? BTW, you can TR most any splitter crack if you have enough cams. I think he means "can walk to the top of". So how's hell this time of year Al? Weather's just about perfect *sob*. 60's - 70's for daytime high, low humidity (relatively speaking). I've degenerated to the point that I'm begging the local gym to install a crack machine and I've already volunteered to front for the materials. Fortunately I know people in areas of the world that actually have crack climbing so I can live vicariously through them. You guys getting snow yet? Yeah, but the wall's got me workin' so much that I can't even get out on the good days. Next time you're out here, I'll have to take you out to the Short Wall. There's a route there called Jay's Solo, which has got to be one of the most difficult offwidths I've managed to ooze to the top of. Its like Big Pink's little brother. Damn, that sounds two parts awesome, two parts utterly horrifying. Can't wait to see it. Might end up spending next season in Laramie. Way too soon to call though. I'm still sore, 4 days later. I've got to get back out there. I've got a ton of routes I need to show you, and they all rock.
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 5:55 PM
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petsfed wrote: I'm still sore, 4 days later. I've got to get back out there. I've got a ton of routes I need to show you, and they all rock. I hear that. So far I've yet to see a shitty route out there although I know you claim there are some.
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j_ung
Oct 30, 2008, 6:20 PM
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How about Dum de dum dum at LG? You can't walk to the top of it, but you said "ideally" top ropable, not "must be" top ropable.
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 6:30 PM
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j_ung wrote: How about Dum de dum dum at LG? You can't walk to the top of it, but you said "ideally" top ropable, not "must be" top ropable. Worth a shot. How many pitches?
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charley
Oct 30, 2008, 11:36 PM
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entrance crack at stone?
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knieveltech
Oct 30, 2008, 11:53 PM
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charley wrote: entrance crack at stone? It's on the list. Thanks for the suggestion!
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thatguyat99
Oct 31, 2008, 3:01 AM
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knieveltech wrote: j_ung wrote: How about Dum de dum dum at LG? You can't walk to the top of it, but you said "ideally" top ropable, not "must be" top ropable. Worth a shot. How many pitches? It's 4 pitches I think...right next to The Nose. Maybe check out Cracker Jack at Table Rock in Linville Gorge. Haven't climbed it but supposedly a fun crack/chimney on pitch 2.
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MikeSaint
Oct 31, 2008, 3:14 AM
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charley wrote: entrance crack at stone? Entrance Crack is a fun one. That initial crack up to the smaller ledge is consistently flaring though. The short crack system above the ledge has some stellar jams that takes you into that Offwidth (optional). Whats the word on that route at the Glass? Never been there, would be interested in hearing something other than the eyebrows. Thank you Knievel for starting this thread, hopefully something turns up.
(This post was edited by MikeSaint on Oct 31, 2008, 3:17 AM)
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knieveltech
Oct 31, 2008, 3:36 AM
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MikeSaint wrote: charley wrote: entrance crack at stone? Entrance Crack is a fun one. That initial crack up to the smaller ledge is consistently flaring though. The short crack system above the ledge has some stellar jams that takes you into that Offwidth (optional). Whats the word on that route at the Glass? Never been there, would be interested in hearing something other than the eyebrows. Thank you Knievel for starting this thread, hopefully something turns up. No problem. I'm not holding my breath though. I expect it'll be one or two routes per major area max. There's some RAD stuff at the Red though, a bunch of it all grouped together. Too bad it's 8 hours away and season's almost over.
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wormly81
Oct 31, 2008, 4:38 AM
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Duh. That 11a fingercrack at Rumbling Bald cereal wall.
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cragmasterp
Oct 31, 2008, 11:17 PM
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I remember thinking Fat Dog (5.7) at Looking Glass was a fun off-width. I don't think my wife would agree... Rumbling bald has some splitters for sure. How 'bout Zombie Woof (10c) at Moores? theres a weird off-width for ya. Alas, none of these are TR-able however. thats all i got for NC off the top of my head. A few more ideas: a fun day can be had searching for splitters at Old Rag in VA. They are hidden in there, and some you can TR. The NRG has crap loads of TR-able cracks, and plenty of those are off-width. enjoy!
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sungam
Nov 3, 2008, 12:22 AM
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I brought some fairly good freebased shit over with me when I came into the country. Concealed it as "High tech climbing chalk" in a stocking ball and everything. Oh, wait - you meant climbing cracks. Get me the hook up if you find someone that can source
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