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My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!)
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USnavy


Nov 5, 2008, 9:31 PM
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My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!)
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So I finally got my testing rig built. I now have the ability to test almost any piece of climbing equipment with up to 10,000. lbs of force. This thread is a list of a bunch of things I am going to test over the next few months. I plan to test a bunch of retired 10 – 20 year old hangers, bolts, chain, quicklinks and rap rings that have been used on sea cliffs that were prone to Stress Cracking Corrosion (CSS). If anyone wants me to test anything specific post up your request and I will consider it. Pic of the rig:



Carabiner that is listed as “not for climbing, Safe Working Load 150 lbs.”:

- Breaking strength: 3.91 kN (gate pin failure (bottom pin))

- Open gate breaking strength: 2 kN





Metolius carabiner loaded on the nose (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):

- Breaking strength: 2.53 kN (failure at spine)



Mammut 10.5 mm dynamic climbing rope (approximately 4 years old, took about 50 lead falls over the section tested, rough sheath abrasion from running over quickdraws on lead falls but no core exposure, no exposure to chemicals or UV, rope clove hitched to one steel carabiner and one ½” shackle):

- Breaking strength: 6.08 kN (core separation at clove hitch)

- Note: The sheath started ripping at about 4.45 kN, the sheath completely separated well before the core failed. The rope was pulled to 4 – 5.33 kN approximately 8 times before the final breaking load of 6.08 kN was applied. A overhand not was tied in the middle of the rope to reduce the length of the rope after it stretched during the first few pulls.







Ace Hardware 1/4” plain steel “880 lbs. Safe Working Load” quicklink:

- Breaking strength: 20 kN (basket failure over at hanger)

- Note: Quicklink was pulled with a steel carabiner one and end and a climbing hanger on the other end



Three stainless steel Metolius Enviro hangers rated to 22 kN approximately 10 – 15 years old placed on a sea cliff (prone to Stress Cracking Corrosion):

- Left hanger tested strength: 20.4 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)

- Middle hanger tested strength: 36 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)

- Right hanger tested strength: 37.5 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)

- Theorized breaking strength: 38 – 40 kN



1/4” bolt test (two bolts of each type were tested. The breaking strength of both of the samples were within 100 lbs. so only the average breaking strength is being posted. The bolts were placed through a Fixe brand 40 kN 3/8” hanger with a grade eight 1/4” washer and a grade 8 nut. They were then place through a 1/4” holt in 1/2” thick mild steel and pulled straight down until they sheared in half)

- 1/4” grade 2 bolt breaking strength: 12 kN (shear at bolt head)

- 1/4” grade 5 bolt breaking strength: 20 kN (shear at bolt head)

- 1/4” stainless steel bolt breaking strength: 20.8 kN (shear at bolt head)

- 5/16” grade 2 bolt breaking strength: 16.88 kN (shear at bolt head)





Metolius carabiner loaded over and edge (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):

- Breaking strength: 8.45 kN (basket failure on spine)

- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY



Metolius carabiner open gate test (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):

- Breaking strength: 9.68 kN (basket failure at bottop of spine)

- No picture




Added 11/17/08

Brand new 1” webbing tied in a loop with a water knot that was soaked in Clorox bleach for 5 minutes then allowed to dry for 10 hours:

- Breaking strength: 22.17 kN (failure by material separation over carabiner)

- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjKPuhVIec



Brand new 1” webbing tied in a loop with a water knot that was soaked in sulfuric acid (30% acid, 70% water) for 20 seconds then allowed to dry for 10 hours:

- Breaking strength: 3.01 kN (failure by material separation over carabiner)

- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9WQku1ckA



The difference between the acid soaked webbing (right) and the bleach soaked webbing (right).



Added June 24, 2009:

In this test I wanted to see the pullout strength of a 3/8” x 2.5” 5-piece Power-Bolt in basalt in a 3/8” hole. Although the bolt was used and the sleeves were slightly bent, the bolt was in reasonable physical condition. The bolt was tested in tension mode, not shear mode.

Breaking strength: 6.66 kN (failure by bolt pulling out of rock (rock did not fail))









After pull test:





This test was rather alarming considering the critically low pull out strength of the bolt. It appears the bolt slid out because the cone did not actually engage the sleeve. The cone was simply pulled into the sleeve as the load was applied instead of being pulled through the sleeve.

In this next test I pull tested a 12 mm Triplex bolt in a 1/2” hole. I have seen quite a few people ask if it’s safe to install these in ½” holes instead of 12 mm ones. The bolt was tested in structural concrete.

Breaking strength: 7.5 kN (failure by bolt pulling out of rock (rock did not fail))

Its worthy to note that the 7.5 kN resistance was not encountered until the bolt was already 1/3rd out of the rock. It only took approximately 4.5 kN to start pulling the bolt out.





It’s also worthy to note that I did not change the position of the nut on the bolt after the test. The bolt actually pulled Ύ” through the sleeve.

This is how the bolt looked before the test:



Black Diamond dog bone over ½” sharp edge:

Breaking strength: 9.3 kN (failure by material separation over edge)





Next I tested the intermediate stitching of the dog bone.

First stitch failure: 3.55 kN
Strongest stitch failure: 5.46 kN






(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 7, 2012, 9:22 PM)


USnavy


Nov 5, 2008, 9:33 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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Video added, carabiner over an edge test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY


chossmonkey


Nov 6, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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Looks like the pull testing competition is heating up!


coolcat83


Nov 6, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Video added, carabiner over an edge test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY


clicky


adatesman


Nov 6, 2008, 1:00 PM
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USnavy


Nov 6, 2008, 10:50 PM
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Re: [adatesman] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
Looks like the pull testing competition is heating up!

I'm game.... Wink

USnavy wrote:
So I finally got my testing rig built. I now have the ability to test almost any piece of climbing equipment with up to 10,000. lbs of force.

<snip>

Nice work! I was wondering if you had followed through with building one after the PMs we exchanged. Good to see you followed through with it.

Oh, and feel free to knock off any of the proposed tests I have over in the Pull Test Suggestion thread.... I intended that to be a clearing house for anyone to use for testing, not just me. Lots of interesting stuff over there that I haven't had time to get back to.
-a.

I should have got the 20 ton frame like you. My 12 ton frame bends a bit once I get in the 8,000 lbs. range. lol When I release the load the whole frame twists back into place.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 6, 2008, 10:52 PM)


USnavy


Nov 17, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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- Added sulfuric acid and bleach webbing tests as show in original post. Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjKPuhVIec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9WQku1ckA


coolcat83


Nov 17, 2008, 8:45 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
- Added sulfuric acid and bleach webbing tests as show in original post. Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjKPuhVIec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9WQku1ckA

clicky


joeforte


Nov 17, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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Wow, I am amazed that a toy carabiner proved to be stronger than a metolius biner loaded on the nose! Just goes to show how important it is to make sure that biners are loaded properly at all times.


wiki


Nov 18, 2008, 11:52 PM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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Cool Rig!

Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)

We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know Tongue I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!


USnavy


Nov 19, 2008, 1:04 AM
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Re: [wiki] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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wiki wrote:
Cool Rig!

Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)

We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know Tongue I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!

Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.


Partner j_ung


Nov 19, 2008, 4:28 AM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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You're like a kid with a new toy. Tongue

That toy biner held 450lbs, but what will the next one hold? Will they be all over the board? You should disclaimer your thread so people don't think its gospel and go aid climbing on keychains. Laugh


USnavy


Nov 19, 2008, 9:33 AM
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Re: [j_ung] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
You're like a kid with a new toy. Tongue

That toy biner held 450lbs, but what will the next one hold? Will they be all over the board? You should disclaimer your thread so people don't think its gospel and go aid climbing on keychains. Laugh
If someone is dumb enough to climb on keychain biners they deserve for it to break on them :)


Partner angry


Nov 19, 2008, 9:37 AM
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I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off?

For science?


knieveltech


Nov 19, 2008, 10:41 AM
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Re: [adatesman] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
Oh, and feel free to knock off any of the proposed tests I have over in the Pull Test Suggestion thread....

I'm still really curious about the slung nalgene and slung can of spam.


adatesman


Nov 19, 2008, 10:47 AM
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knieveltech


Nov 19, 2008, 10:48 AM
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Re: [adatesman] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
knieveltech wrote:
I'm still really curious about the slung nalgene and slung can of spam.

Seems like I'm going to goof off all day anyway (pulled a green powercam and purple and green u-stem camalots to failure this morning), so I might as well go do the nalgene test I promised you. Results will probably be posted tomorrow or the next day. The can of Spam will have to wait until it gets warm out as I'm not doing that one indoors. Smile

Laugh

But just think of how cool an exploding slung can of spam would look on youtube...


USnavy


Nov 20, 2008, 10:12 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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Bolt added 11-20-08, video will be added later tonight.

Stress Cracking Corrosion video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0bmZGcQOu8

Hanger fails at 2.7 kN!


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 20, 2008, 11:21 PM)


wiki


Nov 21, 2008, 12:41 AM
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USnavy wrote:
wiki wrote:
Cool Rig!

Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)

We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know Tongue I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!

Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.

Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf

General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html Cool

Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...).


USnavy


Nov 21, 2008, 1:38 AM
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Re: [wiki] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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wiki wrote:
USnavy wrote:
wiki wrote:
Cool Rig!

Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)

We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know Tongue I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!

Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.

Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf

General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html Cool

Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...).

Eh, just one minute looking at that MSDS and I can already tell you that stuff is dangerous to climbing equipment. It contains ethanol and phosphoric acid, two chemicals you don’t want to touch your gear. It has a PH of 1.5 - 2.5 which is extremely low and it’s listed as a corrosive substance. I can guarantee you that a chemical like this can compromise climbing equipment without testing it. Any substance listed as corrosive needs to stay far away from your climbing equipment.


wiki


Nov 21, 2008, 1:53 AM
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Re: [USnavy] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
wiki wrote:
USnavy wrote:
wiki wrote:
Cool Rig!

Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)

We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know Tongue I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!

Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.

Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf

General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html Cool

Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...).

Eh, just one minute looking at that MSDS and I can already tell you that stuff is dangerous to climbing equipment. It contains ethanol and phosphoric acid, two chemicals you don’t want to touch your gear. It has a PH of 1.5 - 2.5 which is extremely low and it’s listed as a corrosive substance. I can guarantee you that a chemical like this can compromise climbing equipment without testing it. Any substance listed as corrosive needs to stay far away from your climbing equipment.

Yeah it is definitely not going near my climbing equipment but my work equipment... that's a different story! I, like you, am convinced it is not good for gear (obviously acid and nylon don't mix), just would like to see what it actually breaks at. I still think it isn't as strong as sulphuric acid...


USnavy


Jun 24, 2009, 9:56 PM
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New stuff added today. [In reply to]
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New stuff added today.


curt


Jun 25, 2009, 9:17 PM
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Re: [angry] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off?

For science?

Hey John, uh, here, pull my finger. For science. Cool

Curt


dlintz


Jun 25, 2009, 9:28 PM
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Re: [curt] My pull testing thread (bolts, hangers, biners, rope, chain, slings, chemical alteration, SCC, and more!) [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
angry wrote:
I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off?

For science?

Hey John, uh, here, pull my finger. For science. Cool

Curt

Reminds me of the time I almost pulled Angry's sister's finger.

d.


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