|
steady_climbing
Nov 7, 2008, 9:07 AM
Post #26 of 76
(13174 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 152
|
If you want to climb multi-pitch sport go to Europe.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_eng
Nov 7, 2008, 9:36 AM
Post #27 of 76
(13169 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2007
Posts: 1701
|
USnavy wrote: Is there any multi-pitch sport out there?
Canmore in the Canadian rockies has quite a couple of MP sport routes, generally 5.10a and up. Sysiphus Summits is a 20+ pitch 10d that apparently fantastic (in late July early August, otherwise too fucking cold!)
|
|
|
|
|
HappinessIsWinning
Nov 7, 2008, 3:49 PM
Post #28 of 76
(13125 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 256
|
angry wrote: The Black Canyon
I here this is some of the best rock in the country. But are there any sport routes there? I thought it was pretty much all traditional.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Nov 7, 2008, 5:37 PM
Post #29 of 76
(13105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
HappinessIsWinning wrote: angry wrote: The Black Canyon I here this is some of the best rock in the country. But are there any sport routes there? I thought it was pretty much all traditional.
no, sport climbing in the Black is going through quite a renaissance right now, and there are quite a few quality moderate, safe lines going in. Caldwell said it was America's version of the Verdon Gorge in France. We should all expect to hear a lot about it in the next year.
|
|
|
|
|
crazy_fingers84
Nov 7, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #30 of 76
(13096 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
|
I second Smith Rock, especially for a trip around march/early april. There are plenty of routes into the 5.11+ range, with quite a few multipitch options. I would worry about climbing there for 2 weeks straight. The rock is very rough and it really tears your fingers up. Think 2 days on, 1 day off.
Or if you are on the other side of the country. . . consider the Red. I will be there near the end of March for a week. It is an incredible area, though the weather could be hit or miss.
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Nov 7, 2008, 6:31 PM
Post #31 of 76
(13078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
Dear god, please tell me this is a troll....
|
|
|
|
|
DFCLIMB
Nov 8, 2008, 2:28 AM
Post #32 of 76
(13049 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2008
Posts: 32
|
A bit off topic, because it is outside the US, but spring on Costa del Sol Spain is great for single pitch limestone, and Riglos has fantastic multipitch sport routes in very cool setting.
|
|
|
|
|
dudemanbu
Nov 8, 2008, 3:45 AM
Post #33 of 76
(13028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
|
USnavy wrote: Is there any multi-pitch sport out there?
El Potrero Chico mexico, has a ton of fully equipped, multipitch (up to 10 if i remember right) but that's not in the usa.
(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Nov 8, 2008, 4:06 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
randyb
Nov 30, 2008, 3:01 PM
Post #34 of 76
(12869 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 49
|
I have to throw Shelf Road out there if we are talking about great sport craig areas in Colorado. It has a huge amount of good quality moderate routes. And can always stop by Garden of The Gods on the way...
|
|
Attachments:
|
l_fbb9149225b14566b67197c4fee23ef3.jpg
(96.8 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
Gaia_Mind
Nov 30, 2008, 4:55 PM
Post #35 of 76
(12842 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2008
Posts: 17
|
Red River Gorge in Kentuckey. Hands down the best sport climbing in the Nation.
|
|
|
|
|
olive
Nov 30, 2008, 6:17 PM
Post #36 of 76
(12818 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2003
Posts: 599
|
Another vote for the Red river gorge. I dont think anything I have seen comes close in terms of sport climbing (though I have not been to Smith Rock). Endless amount of routes, quality climbs, variety. There is a lot besides jug-hauls at the red.
As others said, the weather is hit or miss march-april though.
|
|
|
|
|
suilenroc
Nov 30, 2008, 7:29 PM
Post #38 of 76
(12792 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581
|
Red River Gorge...
|
|
|
|
|
supersonick
Nov 30, 2008, 7:42 PM
Post #39 of 76
(12785 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 157
|
Of course I am partial to Maple but after just spending some time in the Red I am going to have to say the Red is better if you can handle the abysmal soul crushing weather found east of the Mississippi.
|
|
|
|
|
MykeDronez
Nov 30, 2008, 8:29 PM
Post #40 of 76
(12778 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2008
Posts: 9
|
The weather in the Red will crush your soul- raining and 33 all winter. raining and seeping all spring. 90 degrees, buggy and greasy all summer. crowds are outta control in the fall. I'd climb somewhere else...
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Nov 30, 2008, 9:56 PM
Post #41 of 76
(12756 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
angry wrote: randyb wrote: I have to throw Shelf Road out there if we are talking about great sport craig areas in Colorado. It has a huge amount of good quality moderate routes. And can always stop by Garden of The Gods on the way... Shelf Road is NOT a destination. Don't waste a trip. It's ok a few times a year if you live within a couple hours. Past that and you'd have to be crazy to visit. It's just local choss, don't oversell it.
Angry I know you've been around and Im wondering why you choose the black? What do you like so much?
|
|
|
|
|
crazy_fingers84
Nov 30, 2008, 11:25 PM
Post #42 of 76
(12736 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
|
Indian Creek . . . sport climbing on gear
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Dec 10, 2008, 2:54 AM
Post #43 of 76
(12627 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
dreday3000 wrote: Love the Red but be aware that it is a jug fest. Especially up to the 512 range. Gonna have to put in a vote for the New. Lots of variety and some great technical routes. Both areas are single pitch.
Stole my words. Red is great for training and parties but the New is my favorite. More variety, more scenic, more technical... less douches.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Dec 10, 2008, 3:14 AM
Post #44 of 76
(12616 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
steady_climbing wrote: If you want to climb multi-pitch sport go to Europe.
Or Mexico... or SE Asia
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Dec 10, 2008, 3:15 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
lucaskrajnik
Dec 10, 2008, 4:52 PM
Post #45 of 76
(12554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2007
Posts: 89
|
Red Rocks, black velvet canyon, hard multi pitch sport... bring...a couple nuts
|
|
|
|
|
16stfd16
Jan 5, 2009, 8:18 PM
Post #46 of 76
(12415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2008
Posts: 72
|
RRG=fun climbing for sure.
|
|
|
|
|
Hennessey
Jan 7, 2009, 11:48 PM
Post #47 of 76
(12356 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2007
Posts: 595
|
Don't know about the west coast, but over here on the East coast my vote goes out to the New River Gorge. The perfect blend of Sport and Trad
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jan 8, 2009, 4:46 PM
Post #48 of 76
(12310 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
I was down around st george UT this fall and found lots of multi pitch sport climbs, 2-3 pitches.
|
|
|
|
|
winglessangel
Jan 8, 2009, 5:59 PM
Post #49 of 76
(12590 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459
|
steady_climbing wrote: If you want to climb multi-pitch sport go to Europe.
Or to Brazil
|
|
|
|
|
apeman_e
Jan 9, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #50 of 76
(13832 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2008
Posts: 212
|
I spent two weeks at smith the first time I went and I absolutely loved it. campground has showers and forced everyone to cook in a common area (probably due to fire danger) so everyone camping there became friends and it was a party.
also free camping down the road at skull hollow, but i'd pay 5 buck/day for the facilities at the park.
and there's a bunch of classic climbs in your range
|
|
|
|
|
|
