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Stick Clip Rules?
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Poll: Stick Clip Rules?
1 bolt? 45 / 68%
2 bolts? 7 / 11%
1/3rd the bolts? 0 / 0%
1/2 the bolts? 1 / 2%
All of them, you still lead it. 13 / 20%
66 total votes
 

N_Oo_B


Nov 21, 2008, 7:22 PM
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Stick Clip Rules?
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How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?


curt


Nov 21, 2008, 7:33 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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N_Oo_B wrote:
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?

I'm pretty sure you can clip the anchors from the ground and it's still a redpoint. After all, sport climbing and top-roping are basically the same thing. Cool

Curt


rtwilli4


Nov 21, 2008, 7:39 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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How about zero?

I (we) don't call it clean unless you do it ground up.

Of course we don't really give a fuck what it's called as long as its fun and a little scary.


altelis


Nov 21, 2008, 7:52 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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How many real votes did you expect?Tongue

Clearly you can stick clip 1.75659493039238384748489393202030939484857748383292 % of the bolts on a route for a red point.

however if you clip 1.756594930392383847484893932020309394848577483832921 % of the bolts on a route its considered a magenta-point


N_Oo_B


Nov 21, 2008, 7:57 PM
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We got some biters tonight! keep the votes coming


notapplicable


Nov 21, 2008, 8:56 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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N_Oo_B wrote:
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?


0


Lazlo


Nov 21, 2008, 9:03 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
N_Oo_B wrote:
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?


0
agreed


curt


Nov 21, 2008, 9:06 PM
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N_Oo_B wrote:
We got some biters tonight! keep the votes coming

Bite this...

Curt


Partner mr8615


Nov 21, 2008, 9:22 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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Seems like the idea behind stick clipping is avoiding a ground fall. So avoid a ground fall. Call it what you want.


USnavy


Nov 21, 2008, 9:26 PM
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Re: [mr8615] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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I say you can clip the first bolt. Anything after that is aid climbing.


dj69


Nov 21, 2008, 9:34 PM
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I'd say one at most, only to avoid a fall that will lead to serious injury.


climbingaggie03


Nov 21, 2008, 9:40 PM
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sport climbing is neither, clip them all


jakedatc


Nov 21, 2008, 10:38 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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1-2 depending on the route. Usually it's one but i did the 2nd bolt instead of the first due to the bolt placement once. didn't effect the route any.

aggie "Sport: 5.10c" that's it?

for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s


ryanb


Nov 21, 2008, 11:45 PM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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In many areas, stick clips are frowned upon and the accepted practice is to "boulder" to the first bolt.

This of course involves creating a stack of small to medium rocks, or "boulders", one can stand on to reach the bolt.

In areas where natural "boulders" are sparse or particularly heavy you may wish to employ special thick foam "boulder mats" for this purpose though in a pinch logs, spare tires, well trained dogs or the hood of your car will work equally well.


Partner angry


Nov 22, 2008, 2:26 AM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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Camhead to thread! Camhead to thread!


Partner j_ung


Nov 22, 2008, 5:35 AM
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Re: [mr8615] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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mr8615 wrote:
Seems like the idea behind stick clipping is avoiding a ground fall. So avoid a ground fall. Call it what you want.

I'll go with his answer. Smile


budman


Nov 22, 2008, 5:39 AM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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ZERO Fool! It's a Pink point. Question asked at the NEW, if someone placed all your gear on a trad climb would it be a pink point? LOL and we all had another shot and a beer and proceeded to school the kid.


Partner j_ung


Nov 22, 2008, 6:36 AM
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Re: [budman] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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Meh, sport climbing is essentially one big compromise of style (and ethics) to achieve a higher difficulty. (Please don't take that as me passing judgment. I'm not. I sport climb some, too, and like it just fine.) I don't see anything disingenuous with sticking the first bolt on a sport climb and calling your send a redpoint. Hell, "redpoint" is also a compromise of style.

But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.


notapplicable


Nov 22, 2008, 6:51 AM
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angry wrote:
Camhead to thread! Camhead to thread!


Is that who was corrupting Sungam at the RRG the other day?? Friends don't let friends stick clip!


budman


Nov 22, 2008, 7:02 AM
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Hey j_ung! If you see Roger say Hi - Bud from Moab(the Nancy and Greg connection) he will know. As to ethics, call it what it is, no half truths and don't call it what it ain't. I've gotten pretty good at aiding what I can't free climb or am too fraidy cat to commit to. Lost my rule book, was recalling pink point from memory. But as I'm getting up in years my memory is probably failing me. One thing I still remember is how to smile when I'm stick clipping that first bolt.


granite_grrl


Nov 22, 2008, 8:26 AM
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How ever many you need to keep it safe.

In other words....it depends.


Partner j_ung


Nov 22, 2008, 8:30 AM
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Will do, Bud from Moab. Smile


N_Oo_B


Nov 22, 2008, 9:50 AM
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wow, that video is wild.


notapplicable


Nov 22, 2008, 10:03 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.


USnavy


Nov 22, 2008, 11:03 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
1-2 depending on the route. Usually it's one but i did the 2nd bolt instead of the first due to the bolt placement once. didn't effect the route any.

aggie "Sport: 5.10c" that's it?

for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s

Just glue it back on, it will be ok. :)

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