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captromalley
Nov 22, 2008, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 47
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First off I'd like to say that nothing here will be revolutionary. I have not come across anything unknown. All I have done to overcome this is to follow a strict regiment. In the beginning of my climbing career I did what most do which is climb way to hard way to often. I would finish the day sometimes barely able to open the car door. The tendons on the inside of my elbow, palm side up would hurt constantly. I thought this was the burn of a hard days work. Looking back that was pretty foolish. Anyhoo, After years of dealing with the pain, never wanting to take the time off to heal, I became proactive. This is what I do now and I have absolutely no sign of tendonitis anymore. Climb open handed on everything possible , even jugs. REVERSE WRIST CURLS!!! 3 sets of 50 or so several times a DAY PUSH UPS keeping elbows in against your side until failure again, several times a day, especially during a day of climbing These routines I do roughly twice a week doing three sets of 12, 10 and 8 with max weight FLAT BENCH PRESS CHEST PRESS FLY LAT PULL DOWN BICEPT CURL (several variations) DIPS Also I swim several times a week, Take protein supplements, eat healthy and often and SLEEP SLEEP SLEEP! I know everyone is different and some of these things may not work but on top of ridding myself of the dreaded tendonitis I have also jumped up in grades both bouldering and leading. I hope someone can get something out of all this.
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onceahardman
Nov 23, 2008, 2:12 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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hey captromalley... I'm glad your system worked for you. It's actually pretty good. I think your load of reverse wrist curls is a little high, but, hey, it worked for you. I'm curious. I've been around exercise a long time. Is there a difference between "bench press" and "chest press"? You listed them seperately. If you have shoulder problems, be very cautious with dips and benches.
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captromalley
Nov 23, 2008, 1:59 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 47
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As for the reps of wrist curls I got for small amount of weight, maybe 5 pounds, and go till it burns. Bench press as I know it is with a bar while chest press is with dumbbells. The main difference just being that you have to use more core strength and balance to maintain proper form with demb bells. Laslty, I didn't mention, but I don't actually do "dips". We have a machine here at my work that simulates the motion of a dip while I also do dips on the edge of the pool in between laps. I find having half my body in the water works very well. Thanks for reading. I really hope someone can get something out of it as I was just at the gym last night and see so many people rubbing their elbows and holding their arms in pain.
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chetroy
Nov 23, 2008, 3:56 PM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Apr 21, 2007
Posts: 26
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I have been climbing for 14 yrs and have dealt with tendinitis multiple times. It still comes back once and awhile, but I treat it with some acupressure (treating pressure points, not messaging where it hurts). This has been the only form of treatment that has worked for me (I have tried them all), I swear by it. peace
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