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wolfeman
Nov 24, 2008, 6:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2003
Posts: 78
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Earlier this year
This spring The Doctor and I went on a walkabout for about 5 hours looking for a new 4-pitch Climb on Bear Mountain called "Oski" - to no avail.We took a bunch of pictures and I posted a Trip report, and then I received this modification of one of the pictures in my e-mail:
With a note from Kole DeCou, one of the first ascentionists.It's a fairly new route, and he said were were probably one of the first parties to try and find it unguided. I knew exactly where it was as soon as I saw the picture - David had been within 50 feet of the anchors when I took that picture, but we just couldn't find them, as they are a bit hidden facing away from the access point.
Present day
David and I left Flagstaff early and pulled into Basha's Supermarket in Sedona for some supplies, and as we are getting into the van, I hear yelling, and a white car speeds off, with people chasing it. The kids aren't going to catch the car, and they are yelling about damaging their car. There is a worried looking family watching the chase as we pull out.
"Let's chase 'em down, David!" I said gunning hard for the white Toyota. David rolls down the window and tells the kids were in pursuit, and we leave them on gasping on the Highway as we speed off.
This guy really wants to get away, he's gunnin' hard down 179, and cuts off suddenly on a side road. We follow, taking the corner, and see him still too far ahead, and he's got a lead foot.
"Damn, we'll never catch him!" I said, "just try and get the license plate." I floor it, and then he slows abruptly for a monster speed bump in a private community.
We roll up, get the plate and turn off and around immediately and head back. He probably didn't even know we tagged him - I am sure he knew soon enough.
The kids were standing on the Highway, and waved at us when we pulled up. David gave them the AZ plate written on a piece of our topo for Oski, and we were off again. I was pumped from the chase and a little shakey as we headed to Bear Mountain.
This approach is a doozey. About an hour to an hour and a half with four separate hills which are most of the hike, the second and the fourth are steep. Then from almost the top of the fourth hill, one cuts right to a 300-foot North-facing precipice, with a set of anchors as assurance there are 3 more like that within range of a 60-m rope.The cairns showing anchor location:
And David taking the first rappel:
Everything went well, and about an hour later (we spent some time inspecting) we hit the dirt, in perfect conditions, probably 55 degrees and all-day shade. I was to take the first 2 pitches, a short 5.9 1st and the crux 5.11 second pitch, then David would get the chimney-to-fists-pitch, and the final 5.10 lead up the dramatic headwall.
There's the weird start on the first pitch (5.9, 40 feet)...what does it say?
"Start in a tree..."
The second pitch (5.11, 80 feet) is techy, with the business hitting hard in the first 30 feet, then pumpy 5.10 to the anchors. Top of 1st pitch (p2 starts at roof to left):
The excellent clean second pitch:
David following 2nd pitch:
The third pitch (5.9, 70 feet) looked pretty full value - traverse to hands to chimney to fist and wide fists, but there looked like there were good features on the walls:
I mean it's only 5.9!
David leading out the traverse:
The chimneying was fun if a little run out, and the sandstone provided fine body friction.
The 4th pitch (5.10, 80 feet) was some slopey slab moves (10-) to a steep headwall of amazing plated holds. 20 feet of slab, then 60 feet of perfect chips interrupted only by a perplexing blank spot below a bulge (5.10) and a sustained finish. Sweet!
Me following pitch 4:
It took us about 4 hours to rap and climb, I guess they're saying it's a grade III. It is pretty heady and committing rapping in 4 pitches in Sedona on a steep wall, but what an adventure and a great hidden gem.
Hey, Kole - was ours the first "unguided" ascent? LOL!
The line:
Erik
Gear notes:
1 60 meter rope
13-15 draws, at least 5-6 long ones
Gear .75" to 4" double 3", and 1 - 3.5" useful. Leave gear at top of Pitch 2 during rappel.
(This post was edited by wolfeman on Dec 5, 2008, 5:05 PM)
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fatoomchk
Nov 24, 2008, 7:47 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 172
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Thanks for the trip report Erik! well written, great photos. thanks.
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sonso45
Nov 28, 2008, 4:37 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
Posts: 997
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Good report Erik. When I did it, I approached from below and that would be a trick to find it alone. Kole was with me. I would definitely not do it unless it was a tad warmer, say sept/april. Then again, I'm from the valley of the sun.
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