But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.
This is a big sticking point for me. While I personally don't like stick-clipping, it's the freedom to make that choice that is most important to me. Therefore, if you want it to be a red-point with all bolts stick-clipped, then that's your decision. If you don't want it to be a redpoint, then that's your decision, too. if someone gives you shit about it, then kick 'em in the knee cap and steal their gear.
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
it still amazes me that trads want to push their tired ethics on everyone else. if you are bumbling up an 80 degree 5.8 slab then you may not need that first bolt clipped. if you are on a 5.13 sport climb that involves a v6 move off the deck you might need the first, second pre-clipped and all the other clips to make the route safe for you. others will hike the route one day without anything pre-clipped, but on another day might clip everything and think nothing of it. it is about the physical and mental ability to send a sport route, not how much you want to risk going to the hospital on any given day. if you want that, trad climb or do highball boulders.
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a red point?
I will usually stick clip the first bolt of a route if it is hard getting up to it, as I don't want a broken leg(s) if something happened (hold break, foot slip, etc). I will still call it a red point if I stick the first bolt.
My answer...what ever you want to do is fine. I have more on my mind then how many bolts a person pre-clips. There is no climbing rule book. Whatever. Be safe and have fun.
(This post was edited by kylerose on Nov 24, 2008, 11:28 PM)
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
KLAWSTI! CLEAN UP TRIPLECHEESETIT POST NOW! NOW!
A triple post has to be good for at least a two day banz.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
Ive totally rope gunned the first bolt (or piece of pro) for my less confident sister before, but she never takes credit for the red point.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?
0
agreed, with every one who said cero. Your at teh crag 2 climb; so sack up, grow a set and climb!
*snaps stick clip over knee* Dude, you've shown me the error of my ways...
I'm glad I could help, but dude dont destroy your gear because your not going to use it. donate it to some still sackless climber that may need it. You wouldn't expect a spurt climbing convert to throw his draws away just cuz he bought a set of cams. dont waste the gearz!
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?
0
agreed, with every one who said cero. Your at teh crag 2 climb; so sack up, grow a set and climb!
*snaps stick clip over knee* Dude, you've shown me the error of my ways...
I'm glad I could help, but dude dont destroy your gear because your not going to use it. donate it to some still sackless climber that may need it. You wouldn't expect a spurt climbing convert to throw his draws away just cuz he bought a set of cams. dont waste the gearz!
So you're saying that by trash stalking my neighbor I'm wasting my time? Crap. Anyone throwing out a new plasma screen TV any time soon?
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