Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab:
UIAA destructive testing
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for The Lab

Premier Sponsor:

 


ski.ninja


Dec 2, 2008, 3:53 PM
Post #1 of 4 (1265 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 7, 2008
Posts: 123

UIAA destructive testing
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Destructive Testing. God, I love those two words put together. When I was a lifty (briefly) they showed us a video of a chairlift being destroyed to see what would happen. My conclusion: If a fixed grip lift rolls back more than one full tower your best option is to just jump. But enough of my nostalgia.

This is a series of excellent videos showing how the UIAA breaks things in the pursuit of quality. The videos are an excellent way to see how everything from carabiners to ice axes are expected to fail if overloaded. I found it particularly interesting watching the rope drop tests and the knot pulling tests (goes to show why you should NEVER tie a figure 8 for a rappel knot.) If nothing else, you get to see a lot of hardware get smashed. Not exactly quantitative, though.

Video 1: Carabiners (open gate), harnesses, cams, pitons.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xparZFsBS40

Video 2: Chocks, bolts, ice axes
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related

Video 3: Belay devices, load limiters, rope tests
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=channel

P.S.
Here's the lift test video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8rXiN_Oys4


Partner epoch
Moderator

Dec 2, 2008, 4:18 PM
Post #2 of 4 (1253 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32080

Re: [ski.ninja] UIAA destructive testing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Moved thread from Beginners to the Lab.


Partner j_ung


Dec 4, 2008, 12:45 PM
Post #3 of 4 (1163 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18689

Re: [ski.ninja] UIAA destructive testing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ski.ninja wrote:
Destructive Testing. God, I love those two words put together. When I was a lifty (briefly) they showed us a video of a chairlift being destroyed to see what would happen. My conclusion: If a fixed grip lift rolls back more than one full tower your best option is to just jump. But enough of my nostalgia.

Laugh


vivalargo


Dec 5, 2008, 10:04 AM
Post #4 of 4 (1102 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 1512

Re: [j_ung] UIAA destructive testing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This goes far is showing how massively strong most of our climbing gear is. Now if we could just get them to test the systems that are in common use, when the gear is used in concert with slings and biners et al.

JL


Forums : Climbing Information : The Lab

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook