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MikeSaint
Dec 3, 2008, 5:09 AM
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Hello Everyone,
I have some extended family in Arkansas whom I can visit at any point. I'd like to make a trip out there just curious to learn a bit more about the climbing in Arkansas. Anyone want give me a break down on ethics- attitudes- areas, choss/ stellar? Cracks?
Typically I prefer roped climbing. I wouldnt be adverse to some beta for the bouldering.
Not quite positive where my point of contacts live but I'll find out.
Thanks All
Mike Saint
(This post was edited by MikeSaint on May 2, 2009, 2:51 PM)
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camhead
Dec 3, 2008, 6:44 AM
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hey Acetosaint, I've climbed a fiar bit in Arkie, but have never been a local.
Anyway, it depends on where you'll be going. ethics are pretty diverse; there are some almost exclusively trad cliffs (Sam's Throne) and closely bolted spurt funfests (Horseshoe Canyon Ranch). Either way, almost all the climbing in AR is in the Northwest corner.
The quality is pretty good for the most part; there is choss and there are classics. Horseshoe Canyon definitely has good sport, with features similar to the RRG, although usually not as tall or consistently steep. Overall, there are no "supercrags" in AR that are on par with the Red or the New, however.
Finally, the local style, ethics, and attitudes in AR are very similar to those in other Southeastern states: low key, aware and respectful of private land, friendly but not overly promotional.
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MikeSaint
Dec 26, 2008, 10:01 PM
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Thanks Camhead.
Any recommendation on guide books?
I'm thinking about flying out in March- any weather patterns worth noting?
My Point of Contacts are in the town/ city of Rogers, northwest region....
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pendereki
Dec 27, 2008, 6:14 AM
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I live right between Rogers and Horshshoe Canyon Ranch, about an hour from each. There is a good bouldering gym in Springdale, which is the other half of Rogers so nearby--Ozark Bouldering Gym. Some very short sport routes can be found at Lake Lincon about 30 minutes from Rogers, it's been a while but I remember so-so climbing there. Horseshoe is going to be 1-1/2 to 2 hours from Rogers and everything else is further.
"Arkansas Rock" by Clay Frisbee is the guide for most of Arkansas except Horseshoe, they have their own guidebook. I have heard that a better guidebook is on it's was sometime, I check with the gear shops whenever I am over there. By the way, there are two local rock shops, Uncle Sams and The Pack Rat, both in Fayettville.
There are no more unusual weather patterns here than anywhere else, March should be a great time. We get weather like Kansas and Oklahoma, no mountain weather patterns here to worry about! Look at the current weather in Wichita, Kansas and that is what it will be like here in 6 hours.
Chad
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pendereki
Dec 27, 2008, 6:23 AM
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I should mention also that five hours the other direction is some awsome trad granite. The Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge, near Lawton, Ok..
Chad
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MikeSaint
Dec 27, 2008, 3:55 PM
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Chad,
This granite trad area is five hours from Rogers?
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pendereki
Dec 27, 2008, 10:52 PM
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Yup, maybe a little less than 5 hours. The gateway town is Medicine Park if you want to look it up on Google maps. "Oklahoma Select" is a good guidebook for there. Great Climbing, I generally go there every March for my spring break (I am a teacher).
Chad
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kane_schutzman
Dec 27, 2008, 11:43 PM
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You may wanna add something to your title..I fucking hate clicking a thread and then finding out its....something that I know nothing about, but fortunately for you I do know allittle something. If you've never been here. Go to HorseShoe Canyon Ranch- No let downs here. Ethics? Common sense goes along ways, just don't be stupid.....
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Jankster
Jan 12, 2009, 9:46 PM
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Your closest spots for rope are going to be Lincoln Lake and Sheppard Springs. Both will probably take you an hour from Rogers. Sheppard has more climbs and is mostly sport with some trad, there are a lot of 5.11s. But Horseshoe is the best bet. Just take a look at it on here.
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MikeSaint
May 2, 2009, 2:52 PM
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I hope to be out there end of July or early August.
Anyone interested in climbing in showing me around?
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pendereki
May 24, 2009, 4:54 PM
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PM me when you are heading this way, I will show you around.
Chad
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Tootie
Sep 3, 2009, 8:32 PM
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fern is your best bet all around rope trad boulder area in tha state other tha hrc...
check it out you'l like
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