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majid_sabet


Dec 8, 2008, 11:08 AM
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miscommunication
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A Taupo rock climber has lost the feeling in his legs, and is possibly paralysed from the waist down, after falling 17 metres at a popular climbing area overlooking Lake Taupo.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/...t/4786498a23955.html


Partner j_ung


Dec 8, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] miscommunication [In reply to]
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Thanks Majid, But I really don't want this to become an accident-report clearinghouse, where any and every climbing accident is cataloged. We're not aiming for quantity over quality here. If you if you need information about a specific accident, that's cool. Or if you want to report something that's close to you personally or geographically, that's okay, too. Just please be a little discriminating about what you post.


reg


Dec 8, 2008, 12:41 PM
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Re: [j_ung] miscommunication [In reply to]
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i agree jay. thanks for finally sayin that. majid - it's to much of that "pain and suffering" - you gotta start thinkin about other stuff.


Partner nauk


Dec 15, 2008, 10:43 PM
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Re: [j_ung] miscommunication [In reply to]
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I disagree. I find it useful to have a place where climbing accidents are cataloged. As long as the reports are truly about climbing accidents I think Majid is providing a valuable service. I believe that a requirement that accidents only be reported by individuals personally or geographically involved with the incident would greatly diminish the educational and preventative purpose of this forum.


Lazlo


Dec 15, 2008, 11:03 PM
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Re: [nauk] miscommunication [In reply to]
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When I started climbing, I read books about mountaineering accidents; I read local reports; and I read lots of Majid's posts. Nowadays I don't so much, but at the time, I really appreciated his posting.

I think knowledge of accidents and what to avoid is crucial to new climbers.


Lazlo


Dec 15, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] miscommunication [In reply to]
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All in all, I would respect J_ung's wishes, though.


Partner j_ung


Dec 16, 2008, 7:07 AM
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Re: [nauk] miscommunication [In reply to]
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nauk wrote:
I disagree. I find it useful to have a place where climbing accidents are cataloged. As long as the reports are truly about climbing accidents I think Majid is providing a valuable service. I believe that a requirement that accidents only be reported by individuals personally or geographically involved with the incident would greatly diminish the educational and preventative purpose of this forum.

I agree, and I think I covered more than just things close to people. Let's just all be careful about shotgunning everything and anything that might or might not be a climbing accident. I think Majid's current posting level of things is aok, even a little on the low side.


king_rat


Dec 16, 2008, 8:28 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] miscommunication [In reply to]
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Regarding the accident, if my reading of the report is correct he set up a top rope and then started to lower down the climb however he was not on belay and fell.

I知 not trying to pretend that I知 infallible, but I struggle to see how accidents like this happen, if I知 expecting someone to lower me down a route I never just presume that I知 on belay and sit back in my harness. I always yell down at my partner, and wait for them to acknowledge that I知 on belay, if possible I like to make eye contact with them, and see that they have me on belay. If I can稚 see them I still want some kind of positive response that I知 on belay. I want to be 100% sure that I am on belay before I trust myself to the rope.


jman


Dec 16, 2008, 9:20 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] miscommunication [In reply to]
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Another reminder that communication is key.


Partner j_ung


Dec 16, 2008, 11:17 AM
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Re: [king_rat] miscommunication [In reply to]
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I take it step further and keep one hand on the other side of the rope, until I feel it holding my weight.


Lazlo


Dec 16, 2008, 8:31 PM
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Re: [j_ung] miscommunication [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I take it step further and keep one hand on the other side of the rope, until I feel it holding my weight.

Agreed. I've even placed a prussick on it in certain situations...ie scary belayers or scary bail piece.


pendereki


Dec 16, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] miscommunication [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:

Agreed. I've even placed a prussick on it in certain situations...ie scary belayers or scary bail piece.

How does the prussic help if the bail piece is scary?


Lazlo


Dec 16, 2008, 8:48 PM
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Re: [pendereki] miscommunication [In reply to]
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pendereki wrote:
Lazlo wrote:

Agreed. I've even placed a prussick on it in certain situations...ie scary belayers or scary bail piece.

How does the prussic help if the bail piece is scary?

You'll fall less distance. Hard to explain...but I think you'll get it with a bit of thought.


Lazlo


Dec 16, 2008, 9:13 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] miscommunication [In reply to]
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...and this is for being lowered. Not rappelling.


seatbeltpants


Dec 22, 2008, 11:54 AM
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Re: [Lazlo] miscommunication [In reply to]
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if anyone wants info on this accident it's discussed here: http://www.mojozone.co.nz/...r=asc&highlight=

not much to add i don't think. the moral of the story for me is to make sure you're communicating damn well, and even if you're certain that you agree what's going on try to maintain some kind of failsafe in the system. keep safe out there Unsure

steve


shoo


Dec 22, 2008, 12:04 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] miscommunication [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:

You'll fall less distance. Hard to explain...but I think you'll get it with a bit of thought.

I fail to understand this. If your bail piece / anchor is sketchy, and it blows, you're hitting the ground no matter what you're tied into. That is, assuming the ground is greater than twice the distance from you to your belay below you. And if you're high enough on a multi-pitch where that doesn't happen, you can pretty much bet that your prussik isn't going to do the least bit if good.


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