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A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO
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dingus


Dec 19, 2008, 3:30 AM
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A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO
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http://www.supertopo.com/...c_id=745854&tn=0

if you so desire....

DMT


swede


Dec 19, 2008, 4:35 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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Thank you for a thoughtful article! I´ll have to improve (even more), since 1/42 is simply not good enough.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Climbing Year!

Chris


k.l.k


Dec 19, 2008, 9:09 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
http://www.supertopo.com/...c_id=745854&tn=0

if you so desire....

DMT

With apologies to RY, I found this article to be almost entirely useless.

I wouldn't normally be so blunt, but the article's mix of snarkiness and pseudo-science seems custom-made to appeal to the Nn00b readers in this benighted site.


curt


Dec 19, 2008, 9:24 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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I'd classify Yoho's article as more of an opinionated "rant."

Curt


vegastradguy


Dec 19, 2008, 9:35 AM
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Re: [curt] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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meh, not impressed.


Valarc


Dec 19, 2008, 9:46 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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In reply to:
(2) Although sport climbing bolt-to-bolt is risky compared to a meal at KFC®, the risk is generally small enough that it is hard to quantify. In author's opinion, in this arena, you (alone) can generally control the entire human error risk to yourself by judicious—read alert and paranoid—observation, plus universal use of a Grigri® or Cinch®.

I'll just leave this here...


notapplicable


Dec 19, 2008, 9:46 AM
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Interesting read. Hes really hung up on those backup knots though.


nilcarborundum


Dec 19, 2008, 9:52 AM
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Re: [curt] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
I'd classify Yoho's article as more of an opinionated "rant."

Curt

And not a very good one at that.

For the record, I don't meet his criteria for a partner, so don't climb with me or you will die.


shockabuku


Dec 19, 2008, 10:27 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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Did anyone put this guy in the "safety nut" box yet? Interesting article but it seems a bit too dramatic in tone.


tombvortx


Dec 25, 2008, 4:51 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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From a self admitted climbing slut...I don't have the numbers but I always thought climbing safer than driving the Las Vegas freeways at commute time. Average..about 7 accidents daily.
Dr. Bob has some good points though his tone is a bit strident. I don't agree on tying a knot in the ends of your rap ropes before tossing them. Never work in Red Rocks.

If you haven't thought about some of his ideas and got some plan of partner evaluation you might sometime find yourself hurt or in danger. I get to use the experienced climber card for that one...

Most of my partners don't have a clue on how to rig a hauling system or escape the belay with an unconscious climber weighting it. But then we are not on a multipitch climb where I am leading at my limit...


suilenroc


Dec 25, 2008, 6:17 PM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire...

i hope someone will post the cliff notes!


mhix13


Dec 26, 2008, 8:55 PM
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i hope this guy isn't a climber... he sounds like he'd have a panic attack before he left the ground thinking about all that could happen. How does he drive to work in the morning for that matter???


MikeSaint


Dec 26, 2008, 8:57 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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suilenroc wrote:
i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire...

i hope someone will post the cliff notes!

I agree. Where the cliff notes at?


dingus


Dec 27, 2008, 6:49 AM
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Re: [MikeSaint] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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MikeSaint wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire...

i hope someone will post the cliff notes!

I agree. Where the cliff notes at?

A two-site review and summary:

"Bob Yoho is a pussy. Always has been too."

You're welcome.


Partner j_ung


Dec 27, 2008, 7:49 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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That's not my read of it.

I have no real way of knowing if his stats are accurate, but aside from that, I think I agree with pretty much all of it. (Caveat for the Gri-gri and Cinch being the user's skill level with each.) This relates back to your other thread about doing everything right. I forget what the outcome was there, but I think I remember my position being that doing everything right can decrease your chances of an accident significantly, but shy of staying home, it can't eliminate them entirely.

(If that wasn't my position, it sure is now. Laugh)


MikeSaint


Dec 27, 2008, 8:05 AM
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Re: [j_ung] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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I read through it & enjoyed it. Thanks for the cross post Dingus as I usually dont check the Taco out (to much politics at times).

The Continuing Education Test for Trad Climbers reminds me of someone we know around these parts.. Tongue


Partner angry


Dec 27, 2008, 8:22 AM
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Re: [dingus] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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I'd rather have been rickrolled than sent to that article.


suilenroc


Dec 27, 2008, 9:19 AM
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Re: [angry] A Thought Provoking Article re Safety on the tACO [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
I'd rather have been rickrolled than sent to that article.

Dear Angry,

Me too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHg5SJYRHA0


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