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swede
Dec 19, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Thank you for a thoughtful article! I´ll have to improve (even more), since 1/42 is simply not good enough.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Climbing Year!
Chris
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k.l.k
Dec 19, 2008, 5:09 PM
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With apologies to RY, I found this article to be almost entirely useless.
I wouldn't normally be so blunt, but the article's mix of snarkiness and pseudo-science seems custom-made to appeal to the Nn00b readers in this benighted site.
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curt
Dec 19, 2008, 5:24 PM
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I'd classify Yoho's article as more of an opinionated "rant."
Curt
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vegastradguy
Dec 19, 2008, 5:35 PM
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meh, not impressed.
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Valarc
Dec 19, 2008, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: (2) Although sport climbing bolt-to-bolt is risky compared to a meal at KFC®, the risk is generally small enough that it is hard to quantify. In author's opinion, in this arena, you (alone) can generally control the entire human error risk to yourself by judicious—read alert and paranoid—observation, plus universal use of a Grigri® or Cinch®.
I'll just leave this here...
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notapplicable
Dec 19, 2008, 5:46 PM
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Interesting read. Hes really hung up on those backup knots though.
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nilcarborundum
Dec 19, 2008, 5:52 PM
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curt wrote: I'd classify Yoho's article as more of an opinionated "rant." Curt
And not a very good one at that.
For the record, I don't meet his criteria for a partner, so don't climb with me or you will die.
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shockabuku
Dec 19, 2008, 6:27 PM
Post #9 of 18
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Did anyone put this guy in the "safety nut" box yet? Interesting article but it seems a bit too dramatic in tone.
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tombvortx
Dec 26, 2008, 12:51 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2008
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From a self admitted climbing slut...I don't have the numbers but I always thought climbing safer than driving the Las Vegas freeways at commute time. Average..about 7 accidents daily.
Dr. Bob has some good points though his tone is a bit strident. I don't agree on tying a knot in the ends of your rap ropes before tossing them. Never work in Red Rocks.
If you haven't thought about some of his ideas and got some plan of partner evaluation you might sometime find yourself hurt or in danger. I get to use the experienced climber card for that one...
Most of my partners don't have a clue on how to rig a hauling system or escape the belay with an unconscious climber weighting it. But then we are not on a multipitch climb where I am leading at my limit...
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suilenroc
Dec 26, 2008, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2006
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i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire...
i hope someone will post the cliff notes!
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mhix13
Dec 27, 2008, 4:55 AM
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Registered: May 12, 2008
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i hope this guy isn't a climber... he sounds like he'd have a panic attack before he left the ground thinking about all that could happen. How does he drive to work in the morning for that matter???
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MikeSaint
Dec 27, 2008, 4:57 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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suilenroc wrote: i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire... i hope someone will post the cliff notes!
I agree. Where the cliff notes at?
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dingus
Dec 27, 2008, 2:49 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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MikeSaint wrote: suilenroc wrote: i read a couple paragraphs... lost the desire... i hope someone will post the cliff notes! I agree. Where the cliff notes at?
A two-site review and summary:
"Bob Yoho is a pussy. Always has been too."
You're welcome.
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j_ung
Dec 27, 2008, 3:49 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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That's not my read of it.
I have no real way of knowing if his stats are accurate, but aside from that, I think I agree with pretty much all of it. (Caveat for the Gri-gri and Cinch being the user's skill level with each.) This relates back to your other thread about doing everything right. I forget what the outcome was there, but I think I remember my position being that doing everything right can decrease your chances of an accident significantly, but shy of staying home, it can't eliminate them entirely.
(If that wasn't my position, it sure is now.  )
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MikeSaint
Dec 27, 2008, 4:05 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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I read through it & enjoyed it. Thanks for the cross post Dingus as I usually dont check the Taco out (to much politics at times).
The Continuing Education Test for Trad Climbers reminds me of someone we know around these parts.. 
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angry
Dec 27, 2008, 4:22 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I'd rather have been rickrolled than sent to that article.
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