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virgilscott
Dec 20, 2008, 4:49 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2008
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Aluminium alloys have been replaced by composites in loads of proven applications and usually the aim has been to reduce weight. It seems there's a small selection of ice tools, but otherwise composites haven't really made it into climbing gear.
I've been trying to figure out how feasible it is to create a lightweight composite carabiner and I was wondering if anyone had done tests relating to this.
As far as I can tell there are four main problems with using composite materials in climbing gear: toughness, wear, damage detection and damage tolerance. I'm aware of a few ways to tackling these problems in theory - but I was wondering if anyone had actually made/tested any prototypes.
Cheers,
Virgil
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tigerlilly
Dec 20, 2008, 4:53 AM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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Don't forget cost. Climbers are cheap.
Kathy
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sungam
Dec 20, 2008, 9:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Unless I am mistaken, it wouldn't work due to friction issues.
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angry
Dec 20, 2008, 9:16 AM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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About 8 years ago a group of University of Wyoming students won an award to work on a carbon fiber biner.
I haven't heard anything of their work since. It seemed impractical at the time for sure though.
I did see a $20 carbon fiber keychain biner that will hold 500lbs at REI the other day. That might be the limit of the concept.
I think a functional carbon fiber, composite, or kevlar biner might be possible but it'd be cost prohibitive and probably heavier than the current generation of light biners.
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