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BigBlue89Bronco
Mar 26, 2008, 4:18 PM
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ive been climbing for about 3 months under two really great guys. One is my brother and the other is his friend who is a master at trad and sport. anyways...
we went to J tree for two days this week. the weather was nothing to complain about. climbed for a bit and then decided it was time for my first lead. it was awesome. scary and at the same time so sweet. i thought about each move 10x more. there was a runout between the ground and 1st bolt so i placed a cam to keep me from falling 30ft. cant wait to go back
just wanted to share some excitement.
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porkchop_express
Apr 7, 2008, 12:35 AM
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Congrats on the first lead! I ticked my first in Summersville WV in August 07 and I can totally relate with the whole thinking about each move scenario. Im planning on hitting up Jtree this spring (it will probably be hot as hell but whatever) and Im looking forward to maybe trying my first trad lead there...
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rockie
Dec 31, 2008, 3:50 PM
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Am aok with trad leads. Sport leads too in the gym.
Tried it at Chek Canyon at Squamish and did not like it, only as I like putting my gear where I want it not where it is already 
Well that was the case that day, on that route, and that is was why I didn't like it.
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Maddhatter
Dec 31, 2008, 6:01 PM
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BigBlue89Bronco wrote: ive been climbing for about 3 months under two really great guys. One is my brother and the other is his friend who is a master at trad and sport. anyways... we went to J tree for two days this week. the weather was nothing to complain about. climbed for a bit and then decided it was time for my first lead. it was awesome. scary and at the same time so sweet. i thought about each move 10x more. there was a runout between the ground and 1st bolt so i placed a cam to keep me from falling 30ft. cant wait to go back just wanted to share some excitement.
SOOOOOOO What line did you do? Like it? Good first lead? Congrads on your first lead.
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PNUT
Dec 31, 2008, 6:27 PM
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BigBlue89Bronco wrote: we went to J tree for two days this week. the weather was nothing to complain about. climbed for a bit and then decided it was time for my first lead. it was awesome. scary and at the same time so sweet. i thought about each move 10x more. there was a runout between the ground and 1st bolt so i placed a cam to keep me from falling 30ft. cant wait to go back
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spikeddem
Dec 31, 2008, 7:38 PM
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rockie wrote: Tried it at Chek Canyon at Squamish and did not like it, only as I like putting my gear where I want it not where it is already .
?????????????????
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Maddhatter
Dec 31, 2008, 8:12 PM
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PNUT wrote: BigBlue89Bronco wrote: we went to J tree for two days this week. the weather was nothing to complain about. climbed for a bit and then decided it was time for my first lead. it was awesome. scary and at the same time so sweet. i thought about each move 10x more. there was a runout between the ground and 1st bolt so i placed a cam to keep me from falling 30ft. cant wait to go back Im guessing it was the SW Corner of Headstone Rock. Am I right or am I right????
Yea, I was kinda thinking the same thing. But how would a cam help on lead? For the belay? a cam? as in one? Just asking.
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PNUT
Dec 31, 2008, 8:16 PM
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I plugged in an alien right at the start to avoid a groundfall if I did something silly before the first bolt. That was my first lead, off the couch, after taking a few years off... Was enjoyable; Im sure it would be a laugher right now.
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mar_leclerc
Dec 31, 2008, 8:46 PM
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rockie wrote: Tried it at Chek Canyon at Squamish and did not like it, only as I like putting my gear where I want it not where it is already Well that was the case that day, on that route, and that is was why I didn't like it.
But Chek is bolted super well... almost too much!?!?! What route were you on b/c I remember all the routes I did being VERY well protected...
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rockie
Dec 31, 2008, 10:14 PM
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Well Chek is a more advanced sport climb area of Squamish I'd say.
It was a 5.8, and the year I had just completed my trad lead course. Maybe I will try it again after the spring and see how I get on with it this time.
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rockie
Dec 31, 2008, 10:14 PM
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You got a problem??
It means I prefer trad lead if you want me to spell it out more clearly.
(This post was edited by rockie on Dec 31, 2008, 10:16 PM)
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mar_leclerc
Dec 31, 2008, 10:15 PM
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ah yes... the climbs at Chek are mostly quite hard. The 5.8 there (Boy Pie??) has less pro and is more ledgy, a bit more dangerous. More of a warm up route for those really hard core sport climbers than a starting leader route. Makes a lot of sense now.
(This post was edited by mar_leclerc on Dec 31, 2008, 10:17 PM)
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rockie
Dec 31, 2008, 10:20 PM
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mar_leclerc wrote: ah yes... the climbs at Chek are mostly quite hard. The 5.8 there (Boy Pie??) has less pro and is more ledgy, more of a warm up route for hard climbers that a beginner lead route. Makes sense now.
A guy I climbed with was on the 5.11 and 5.12's I seconded up some of those higher climbs up to the 5.10's but belayed him on the rest as out of my league. I tried that 5.8 but just did not feel as comfortable with it compared to the 5.8 trad routes.
But what you said, makes sense to me now as to why.
(This post was edited by rockie on Dec 31, 2008, 10:30 PM)
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Maddhatter
Dec 31, 2008, 11:36 PM
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PNUT wrote: I plugged in an alien right at the start to avoid a groundfall if I did something silly before the first bolt. That was my first lead, off the couch, after taking a few years off... Was enjoyable; Im sure it would be a laugher right now.
Great climb, Congrads. Very cool first lead.
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seanpmccormick
Jan 18, 2009, 4:32 PM
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I have to say I'm not solely a trad climber, however, I've done my fair share. After being rained out day after day on the chief I went to Chek and had a great time. Very well bolted if you ask me. Not too many, not too few, and most placed at good holds. Love the area and would love to try (is the big overhanging wall flying circus?) again after climbing in Tonsai the last three months. Love the Squamish area.
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