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hang or pullups?
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xanx


Nov 16, 2002, 6:05 PM
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hang or pullups?
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i just got a hangboard (Pusher Tolerance board) and i was wondering: generally speaking, what will help my climbing more, to do a lot of pullups on easier holds, or to just hang (straight arm or bent arm) from the worst holds on it? there is really no specific strength i have in mind to develope (besides, of course, the ubiquitous contact strength) but if it matter pinches are probably my worst weakness and i am really good at crimpers and open handed slopers (as opposed to those fiendish giant slopers you pinch).

i think probably hanging bent arm would be ideal; it developes lock off strength and similar strength as pullups, but also contact strength for slopers and open hand. next would be straight arm hang because contact strength is probably more important than campus/ pullup strength (you can't do a pullup if you cant hold onto the hold), then pullups i think would be worste. obviously you would eventually work up to be able to do pullups on the worste holds, but doing pullups on easier holds doesn't bring you closer to this, hanging on the worst ones does. would a combination of these be worth it, or should i just stick to hang straight arm, work up until i can hang bent, work until i can do pullups? if so, what would be best ration of pullups/hanging? any input/opinions would be welcome.

thanks a lot
mike


tenn_dawg


Nov 16, 2002, 6:45 PM
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hang or pullups? [In reply to]
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In my opinion I think that pull ups are more ideal.

I am by no means an expert on training, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I'm just relating my experiences.

I saw the biggest gain in strength from a hang board when I was doing pullups. I would grab one kind of hold always starting on the most henious (crimper for example), and do several pullups. Then I would campus to another kind of easier hold (deep 2 finger pockets) and do several more. Finally I would grab the slopers on top and max out all without my feet touching the floor.

The number of pullups I did for each set depended on how hard my workout was, and how good of shape I was in. Also, by doing pullups, and watching your reps increasing, you can see your progress. And know just how hard you are pushing yourself.

The only way that I feel I can get the same workout by hanging is to have a spotter with a watch, or a clock to time your hangtime (no pun intended). Hanging without pullups may have it's own set of advantages, but I prefer pullups. Mabey it's just my old weightlifting days catching up with me.

Travis


moeman


Nov 16, 2002, 6:52 PM
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hang or pullups? [In reply to]
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Half of each usually works for me


ponyryan


Nov 16, 2002, 7:10 PM
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I do pullups on varying levels of difficulty as well. I start with one on the hardest crimp my board has then move to progressively easier holds and move up one more pullup than the time before (1 on the hardest, 2 on the next, etc.. etc..) then I go back down through the same holds. I have noticed a huge gain in my contact strength as well as my back strength. I recommend this workout!


overlord


Nov 17, 2002, 4:15 AM
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do both. pullups will improve your back/arm strenght, but dont stop when you cant do them any more. then just do dead hans on tough holds.

CLIMB ON


campus


Nov 25, 2002, 6:28 PM
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hang or pullups? [In reply to]
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Maybe you can try a variation of the pull-ups, for instance;2 pullups and a full lockoff in the smallest edge, or 3 differents lockoffs in the sloppers(full-45-120), also you can hang 3 to 10 secs for maximun finger strength or 10 to 30secs for endurance in a regular size hold.

good luck

[ Este Mensaje fue editado por: campus el 2002-11-25 18:30 ]


mreardon


Nov 26, 2002, 3:49 PM
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Combination of both as already said - however - do pay attention to rest days. I still suffer at the elbows and wrists from the early years of hangboard punishments.


climbergirl22


Nov 26, 2002, 3:53 PM
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definitely i would say all of the above. because i am now at a 2 finger full pull up and i've found my climbing is much better... but over all i would say to practice all three. bye


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