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jahsh
Jan 9, 2009, 7:21 PM
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I'm fairly new to the whole ice climbing thing and most of my gear was ski oriented. I've upgraded everything except my gloves. What does everyone out there think is the best pair of gloves for ice?
Thanks
-josh
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brownie710
Jan 9, 2009, 7:52 PM
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bd punisher, mho. warm enough and padded enough to keep you going out day after consecutive day but dexterous enough to let you handle taking out screws, tie knots,etc. I have the ice gloves but they lack some of the dexterity of the punishers. i mainly climb in the ADK's FWIW
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the_climber
Jan 9, 2009, 8:06 PM
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Best glove... well, there's not much worth buying that's out right now. Most of the good designs were "redesigned" and "improved" to the point that they now suck.
That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay.
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scotty1974
Jan 9, 2009, 8:13 PM
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I have the BD punishers and OR Dry Ice. The dry ice have a softshell inside glove and an a gortex outer glove, so you can seperate depending on the conditions. My only complaint with them is the softshell liner fits perfect, but when I have the larger overglove on, it makes it difficult to accomplish tasks. So I take the over gloves off and the inners eventually get wet, and then....cold fingers.
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altelis
Jan 9, 2009, 9:26 PM
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the_climber wrote: Best glove... well, there's not much worth buying that's out right now. Most of the good designs were "redesigned" and "improved" to the point that they now suck. That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay.
Hey man, I lived in SLC for a while, so I know all about the temps down there. Ice climbing in Utah is NOTHING like climbing in other parts of the country. MUCH warmer conditions. I second the_climber's suggestion about the Cloudveil gloves. Don't know what has changed since 2005 when I bought mine, but I freaking LOVE them. Esp. in Utah where the temps are way more manageable than the rest of the Rockies/New England (other places I've climbed ice)- and still loved my Cloudveils even in the much colder conditions. Don't get me wrong, my hands were COLD by the end of pitches, but they climbed so well, that hey, it was worth it!!
I would still recommend bringing at LEAST two other gloves with you. One super warm pair to warm up the hands when belaying (ski gloves work really well for this) and a pair of mechanics gloves if you are climbing multi-pitch and plan on rapelling OR if you are top roping and doing a lot of lowering, both of which WREAK HAVOC on the palms of gloves. Its a lot easier to take when the gloves cost 20 bucks rather than 200+......
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chossmonkey
Jan 9, 2009, 9:31 PM
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the_climber wrote: That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay.
I normally like to wear BD Powerstretch fleece gloves when climbing and have 2-3 pairs to change between through the day. I have a warmer pair of gloves or mitts for belaying. If it is really cold I use the gloves I normally belay in. You might not be able to get them in the States since they are a store brand here in Canada. If it is really cold I have BD Mercury Mitts for belaying.
http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1231536270824
http://www.mec.ca/...698971&bmUID=123
Like The Climber said, try stuff out and find what works for you. Normally the least expensive will work better than the most expensive in normal conditions.
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the_climber
Jan 9, 2009, 9:48 PM
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altelis wrote: Cloudveil gloves. Don't know what has changed since 2005 when I bought mine, but I freaking LOVE them.
They completely redesigned them. The cut is different and the padding is much stiffer than the old ones. Dexterity is down as well, likely due to the change in cut.
As for the thick vs thin glove debate. You are much better off using a thiner glove with greater dexterity for climbing and using a pair of thick gloves/mitts for the belay. You'll fiddle with gear easier, climb faster, feel and grip your tools better. Plain and simple you're hands WILL get cold regardless of the temps. Once thick gloves get wet (be it by sweat, or wet ice/snow) they are wet for the day. With thin gloves you can use your body heat to dry them out by sticking them inside your jacket, handle gear better, and over all your hands will not be any colde than with the thick gloves, which would have gotten wet anyways.
This system I've come to use after somewhere around 10 years of ice:
-2 pairs of gloves I 'enjoy' leading in
-1 pair of thin/cheep (ie. $1.99 one size fits all Safeway specials) for the approach, or fleece if it's really cold
-1 pair of thick warm mitts/gloves for the belay, or standing around
If I'm expecting really wet conditions I'll bring an extra pair of gloves to cycle through for climbing.
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altelis
Jan 9, 2009, 10:11 PM
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well, now i'm conflicted.
excited that i got mine before they became crappy.
really bummed that once they die they can't be replaced :(
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the_climber
Jan 9, 2009, 10:15 PM
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altelis wrote: well, now i'm conflicted. excited that i got mine before they became crappy. really bummed that once they die they can't be replaced :(
How do you think I feel, my last pair are on the brink of death...
I suppose I could sew then up, again. Maybe pick up some patches of scraps from Tandy Leather next time I'm down there.
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Crimsonghost
Jan 9, 2009, 10:35 PM
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Depends if you climb leashless or not, but if you do thin gloves work better as you don't fumble so much and waste time. Also you can keep shaking out to get the blood back in them. Then you can chuck on a pair of thick mitts at the belay to keep your hands warm. The best gloves I've ever used are the OR Stormtracker gloves - they're really thin but so dextrous it's easy to place gear and shake out so my hands don't really get too cold.
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jahsh
Jan 9, 2009, 11:07 PM
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thanks for all the tips
what i've been doing is this:
1 pair of old rossignol leather spring gloves to lead in(super dexterous but cold as piss when they get wet, also they're just about done, holes in two fingers and the palms are shredded)
2 pairs of fleece gloves to swap out on the approach or to replace the rossi's once they turn into a sponge
1 pair of BD guide gloves super warm, to bulky to effectively climb in but good for warming up
1 gore-tex mitten shell to wear over the fleece gloves when i belay
i was wondering what everyone else does/wears, to use as a starting point to replace my old rossignols
thanks for all the replies, its been superhelpful
(This post was edited by jahsh on Jan 9, 2009, 11:08 PM)
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altelis
Jan 10, 2009, 12:21 AM
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i really like the mitten-shell thing for rapping/lowering too. i have an older, CHEAP pair from llbean of all places. i just keep DWR'ing them each season. they work great
and NOTHING beats those BD guides. those gloves are the f'ing SHIT!
i would second the dexterous-is-better suggestion. go into a gear shop, throw a bunch of gloves on, ask to hold some ice tools- or even better the cams. see what handling them is like. can you tie your shoes? all good tests....if your local gear shop is rei and you can get a better deal, do it. if your local gear shop is an ACTUAL local gear shop (like the IME in SLC) then buy them there. suck up the extra money....
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jahsh
Jan 10, 2009, 12:29 AM
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I'm all about supporting the local shops, I especially dig IME, the consignment shop is great.
The local shop down here in San Pete is Jason Stevens lil' shop at Maple Leaf. Not the largest selection, but Jason is a great guy and has always been extremely helpful/friendly.
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altelis
Jan 10, 2009, 12:35 AM
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actually, now that i think about, IME often times has bins of new overstocked gloves that they slash the prices on. thats how i got my cloudveil ski gloves (the guides are WAY too warm for most sunny wasatch ski days)- they were 30 bucks for a brand new pair!
they are usually super willing to poke around the back for you on the phone....
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mar_leclerc
Jan 10, 2009, 7:15 PM
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I've been using these OR Alibi's for leading (when its not SUPER COLD) and BD Guides for belaying in... The Alibi's are really dextrous and grippy but are not very insulating. The nice thins about them though is when you get the barfies (only in very cold weather) you can take your hands out of the gloves as they start to throb and then as it begins to get extremely painful shove your hands back into the Alibi's and b/c thay have rubber they will have gotten cold and feel super nice, perfect cure for the barfies.
When it is super cold out (-15 celcius or less) I do everything in my BD guides. I clip the rope to my screws by pushing one gate on the draw against my rope and then clipping the draw/rope to the screw. Otherwise it is hard to clip the rope to the draw b/c the gloves are pretty big. This system works fine for me... Oh, and don't clip gloves to your harness as you climb, they will freeze solid, put them into the inside of your jacket (unless you are emberassed to look fat)
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rhythm164
Jan 10, 2009, 8:33 PM
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I've heard positive things about the BD Punishers, haven't used them, but it's hard for me to imagine they could beat out the BD Ice gloves. They're great, I climb mostly in the ADKs and I've never had cold fingers.
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sandstone
Jan 10, 2009, 11:09 PM
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the_climber wrote: This system I've come to use after somewhere around 10 years of ice: -2 pairs of gloves I 'enjoy' leading in -1 pair of thin/cheep (ie. $1.99 one size fits all Safeway specials) for the approach, or fleece if it's really cold -1 pair of thick warm mitts/gloves for the belay, or standing around
I'll second that, it's pretty much exactly what I do. I use a cheap pair of liners or cheap windproof fleece for approach, because they can get wet groveling in snow. Once I get to the climb these go in the pack.
I start climbing with a pair of dry gloves, and if it's a long climb and/or conditions are wet, I carry along a spare pair. I'm currently using some BD gloves I got on sale, I bought 4 pairs for ~$35 each. Don't remember the name, but they have leather palms, and are not a specialized ice climbing glove, I think they were more of a skiing & general purpose glove. They fit great, they're warm, and they have good dexterity.
On really cold days I have a pair of OR Pro mittens ready in the pack, all toasty and warm with a heat pack in each that I put in there at the start of the day. These usually don't come out unless I really need to warm up, or wear them on the walk out.
I think the most important thing to remember is that your gloves will get wet, regardless of make & model, so always take more than one pair. I'd rather have multiple pairs of decent serviceable gloves than one pair of the most expensive gloves made.
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brent_e
Jan 10, 2009, 11:15 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay. Patagucci quit making gloves. They did have some good ones. I normally like to wear BD Powerstretch fleece gloves when climbing and have 2-3 pairs to change between through the day. I have a warmer pair of gloves or mitts for belaying. If it is really cold I use the gloves I normally belay in. You might not be able to get them in the States since they are a store brand here in Canada. If it is really cold I have BD Mercury Mitts for belaying. http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1231536270824 http://www.mec.ca/...698971&bmUID=123 Like The Climber said, try stuff out and find what works for you. Normally the least expensive will work better than the most expensive in normal conditions.
the mountaineer sells them. although they were 20 USD when I looked last. they may not be online, though.
good glove for moderate temps.
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the_climber
Jan 11, 2009, 2:14 AM
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The old version of that glove is perhaps the best glove for Ice in my oppinion.
I was not impressed with the "Improved" fit and padding on the new ones. Perhaps I just need to buy a pair and break them in. I just think they had it right on the previous Ice Flow.
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gargrantuan
Jan 11, 2009, 5:15 AM
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i like the BD Ice glove for alpine climbing. i like th OR Alibi for mixed/ice climbing. i like MEC N2S for approaching and chilling.
the OR gloves fall apart like 'woah' but are sticky like nobody's business. they always replace them though so that earns big points in my book.
for the most part just find cheap fleece gloves or liners and beat the tar out of them until you know what works best for you.
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chossmonkey
Jan 12, 2009, 11:31 AM
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brent_e wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay. Patagucci quit making gloves. They did have some good ones. I normally like to wear BD Powerstretch fleece gloves when climbing and have 2-3 pairs to change between through the day. I have a warmer pair of gloves or mitts for belaying. If it is really cold I use the gloves I normally belay in. You might not be able to get them in the States since they are a store brand here in Canada. If it is really cold I have BD Mercury Mitts for belaying. http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1231536270824 http://www.mec.ca/...698971&bmUID=123 Like The Climber said, try stuff out and find what works for you. Normally the least expensive will work better than the most expensive in normal conditions. the mountaineer sells them. although they were 20 USD when I looked last. they may not be online, though. good glove for moderate temps.
I hope you stocked up!
You can't get the MEC gloves in the States unless you order them. I think MEC will ship them to the States but mail ordering gloves really sucks.
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granite_grrl
Jan 12, 2009, 12:26 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: You can't get the MEC gloves in the States unless you order them. I think MEC will ship them to the States but mail ordering gloves really sucks.
And yes, I'm sure I have a harder time than many people 'cause I've got man length hands with a woman's narrowness. But I know other people with oddities about their hands hands too.
I like have a good supply of liner type gloves, which I try to do my actual climbing if I can. My hands also seem to be the sweatiest part of me so I have to change out my gloves a few times during the day.
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brent_e
Jan 12, 2009, 3:21 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: brent_e wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: That said try the Cloudviel Ice Flow, some of the BD gloves, Patagonia glove, some of the OR gloves, Atlas gloves, mechanics gloves, $1.99 one size fits all gloves... just find something you like climbing in. Then get a couple, or a few pairs of them, and then take an extra set of warm mits/gloves for the belay. Patagucci quit making gloves. They did have some good ones. I normally like to wear BD Powerstretch fleece gloves when climbing and have 2-3 pairs to change between through the day. I have a warmer pair of gloves or mitts for belaying. If it is really cold I use the gloves I normally belay in. You might not be able to get them in the States since they are a store brand here in Canada. If it is really cold I have BD Mercury Mitts for belaying. http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1231536270824 http://www.mec.ca/...698971&bmUID=123 Like The Climber said, try stuff out and find what works for you. Normally the least expensive will work better than the most expensive in normal conditions. the mountaineer sells them. although they were 20 USD when I looked last. they may not be online, though. good glove for moderate temps.The Patagucci's are only $20!!!!!!! I hope you stocked up! You can't get the MEC gloves in the States unless you order them. I think MEC will ship them to the States but mail ordering gloves really sucks.
which patagucci's?
BD powerstretch @ the mountaineer
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reno
Jan 17, 2009, 3:17 AM
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Best gloves for ice climbing?
Your driest pair.
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