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knieveltech


Jan 9, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Plumbers crack gets the chop?  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia)
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Noticed a couple of posts to the route list that indicated the bolts have been stripped from Plumber's Crack at Sandstonia, can anyone confirm?


rockandlice


Jan 11, 2009, 11:16 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I noticed that mentioned here too. Haven't been by to confirm though.


suilenroc


Jan 11, 2009, 11:24 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I was there in early october and did not see any of the lower bolts.


knieveltech


Jan 11, 2009, 7:00 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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suilenroc wrote:
I was there in early october and did not see any of the lower bolts.

That's crazy. Admittedly the route was pretty much the definition of gross, and a bolted crack to boot, but still I can't believe someone bothered chopping it. I don't think anyone would call Plumber's Crack classic, or even worthy. I wonder if 5.5 My Ass is next?


dingus


Jan 11, 2009, 7:22 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I thought maybe Joe the Plumber had fallen into Israeli misfortune!

Only a bolted crack chop - oh the HUMANITY!

DMT


ddclimbs


Jan 12, 2009, 6:27 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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Was there in early November and was looking to climb Plumbers Crack. The fact that it was noted in the guide as bolted was encouragement for us novice climbers who love the challenge of crack climbs. Unfortunate for us, the bolts were chopped and we left our trad rack in car. A long hike in and the rack in the car led for a dissappointing morning. Unsure


Partner j_ung


Jan 12, 2009, 7:15 PM
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Re: [ddclimbs] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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Surely, there was other stuff there to climb. And most of it is better than Plumber's Crack, to boot. (The climb really does sort of stink, IMO.) I don't typically advocate chopping -- I don't think any one person gets to choose that stuff for the rest of us, but it wasn't exactly an honest sport climb. It probably should never have been bolted.

But, while I have my opinions, I decided a while back that I'm not going to fight bolt battles. I'm in this for fun and the love of climbing, not to be some kind of enviro-knight, and certainly not to become embroiled in some local bolt controversy. In the end, I can find plenty of rock that doesn't offend my delicate sensibilities. Laugh


knieveltech


Jan 12, 2009, 9:12 PM
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Re: [ddclimbs] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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ddclimbs wrote:
Was there in early November and was looking to climb Plumbers Crack. The fact that it was noted in the guide as bolted was encouragement for us novice climbers who love the challenge of crack climbs. Unfortunate for us, the bolts were chopped and we left our trad rack in car. A long hike in and the rack in the car led for a dissappointing morning. Unsure

Eh, I'm telling you, you didn't miss much. It doesn't climb like a crack route regardless of the name, and it's chossy as hell. The only gear placement I really liked was a #5 just below the ledge. So I guess someone needs to update the route database to reflect this change? 5.6 trad, pg, one star?


Partner j_ung


Jan 13, 2009, 8:40 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I need a little lunch break, so I think I'll head out and have a look now. I'll report back soon.


justroberto


Jan 13, 2009, 8:54 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I don't remember it being chossy at all, but I could be wrong. I also don't remember it being spectacular, but apparently I still gave it 4 stars out of five in the database...Chopped or not, it's not really worthy of being argued over. Jay's right - it shouldn't have been bolted in the first place (I led it on a single set of nuts and one tricam) but it's not such a great line that anyone should have really felt compelled to pull the bolts, especially in an area that's already got so many.


(This post was edited by justroberto on Jan 13, 2009, 8:57 AM)


mojomonkey


Jan 13, 2009, 8:54 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I need a little lunch break, so I think I'll head out and have a look now. I'll report back soon.

I hate (=am jealous) that you can do that.


knieveltech


Jan 13, 2009, 9:18 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
I don't remember it being chossy at all, but I could be wrong. I also don't remember it being spectacular, but apparently I still gave it 4 stars out of five in the database...Chopped or not, it's not really worthy of being argued over. Jay's right - it shouldn't have been bolted in the first place (I led it on a single set of nuts and one tricam) but it's not such a great line that anyone should have really felt compelled to pull the bolts, especially in an area that's already got so many.

A lot of the easier routes at Sandstonia have loose rock, and in the case of plumber's crack, the sides of the crack looked a bit rotten to me. Maybe chossy was too strong a term. *shrug* Personally I hated the way the route climbed, disliked several of the bolt placements, and didn't really trust most of the gear placements I saw due to rock quality looking a bit sketchy. I'm not sad that it's gone.


suilenroc


Jan 14, 2009, 9:45 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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I know this doesn't address the topic completely, i feel it is related though.

What is wrong with climbing, placing your own gear, and skipping the bolts? Really! I can think of a handful of climbs down at Sandstonia that could be done on gear. If I felt like carrying my rack down there I am sure i could send some of those routes on pro. That doesn't imply that i should chop the bolts because I did it!

I'm sure this has been discussed on here... But this particular wall is a great place for beginner's to experience a large concentration of moderate routes. Why not leave the bolts so they can lead the routes on both gear and bolts... Everyone that has climbed there agrees the rock quality isn't exactly like the other World Class Climbing Walls at the New.

Its annoying to know that someone obviously could climb the Plumber's Crack without bolts, hence removing them. Leaving the climb utterly useless to the beginner's that really can benefit from the climb. Garrrrr.Mad


theguy


Jan 14, 2009, 9:55 AM
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Re: [mojomonkey] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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mojomonkey wrote:
I hate (=am jealous) that you can do that.

"Envious" is the more applicable word.

And before you jump in, this is a semantics police, rather than grammar police, intervention.


justroberto


Jan 14, 2009, 10:06 AM
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Re: [suilenroc] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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Meh, it's not really that annoying, since there are several other supermellow moderates at Sandstonia. For a beginner, Bobby D's is longer, less ledgy, bolted every 6 feet, and is a generally better route. The beginning climber doesn't really lose anything by not climbing this route on bolts...

I'm still not advocating that they should have been chopped, I'm just saying that it's hardly worth a mention in the first place other than to let people know the bolts aren't there anymore. In my opinion, it was lame to chop them, but almost as lame to complain about it.


knieveltech


Jan 14, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Re: [suilenroc] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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suilenroc wrote:
I know this doesn't address the topic completely, i feel it is related though.

What is wrong with climbing, placing your own gear, and skipping the bolts? Really! I can think of a handful of climbs down at Sandstonia that could be done on gear. If I felt like carrying my rack down there I am sure i could send some of those routes on pro. That doesn't imply that i should chop the bolts because I did it!

I'm sure this has been discussed on here... But this particular wall is a great place for beginner's to experience a large concentration of moderate routes. Why not leave the bolts so they can lead the routes on both gear and bolts... Everyone that has climbed there agrees the rock quality isn't exactly like the other World Class Climbing Walls at the New.

Its annoying to know that someone obviously could climb the Plumber's Crack without bolts, hence removing them. Leaving the climb utterly useless to the beginner's that really can benefit from the climb. Garrrrr.Mad

Note I'm not advocating for what was done to the climb. Disclaimer out of the way, skipping bolts is NOT the same as doing a route gear-only. With no bolts you are forced to rely on the protection you can work out for yourself based on the pro you have on you and what the rock is offering for placements. This absolute requirement for self-reliance is the heart of trad climbing.

With bolts present as possible pro you're basically sport climbing on removable pro, since you have the option to revert to sport climbing mode if the route gets in your head. Wiser folks than myself can debate the relative merits of learning to place pro in this kind of environment. My personal belief is that learning to deal with the commitment/mental aspects that come with relying 100% on whatever placements you can eke out for yourself is what beginning trad is all about, because let's face it, while placing pro is definitely an art form, it doesn't take more than an afternoon to cover the basics of what a good placement looks like and how to slot a nut, or place a cam.


suilenroc


Jan 14, 2009, 10:30 AM
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justroberto wrote:
I'm still not advocating that they should have been chopped, I'm just saying that it's hardly worth a mention in the first place other than to let people know the bolts aren't there anymore. In my opinion, it was lame to chop them, but almost as lame to complain about it.

IMO your attitude towards chopping that route is lame. No offense, but I don't think you know what you are talking about. I spend most of my time climbing outside at the NEW. That particular wall is where i like to take n00bies and don't like the fact that someone is changing the routes to meet their ego. As i already said, there are more routes down there that can easily be done on gear. Why not chop those too? I am guessing that Eric Horst put those bolts in and probably did the FA. If that is the case out of respect it should be up to him to whether there should be bolts or not... My concern isn't lame, ignoring poor ethics is!

ADD: It just occurred to me that Lay Back and Enjoy It 5.10d was missing a bolt through the finger crack section... anyone else notice this?


(This post was edited by suilenroc on Jan 14, 2009, 10:34 AM)


justroberto


Jan 14, 2009, 3:20 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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suilenroc wrote:
justroberto wrote:
I'm still not advocating that they should have been chopped, I'm just saying that it's hardly worth a mention in the first place other than to let people know the bolts aren't there anymore. In my opinion, it was lame to chop them, but almost as lame to complain about it.

IMO your attitude towards chopping that route is lame.

Since I have previously agreed with you that the route probably shouldn't have been chopped, doesn't that make your attitude towards it lame as well?

In reply to:
No offense, but I don't think you know what you are talking about. I spend most of my time climbing outside at the NEW.

Well golly jeepers, I ain't never climbed outside aforen. And I hain't nerr been to the NEW, much less that wall or even that particalar rowt.

In reply to:
That particular wall is where i like to take n00bies and don't like the fact that someone is changing the routes to meet their ego.

Buy a set of nuts and you can still climb it. By the way, how do you know why someone chopped it? Don't be so presumptuous. For all you know, that line could have been put up 20 years before it got bolted. Maybe the first ascentionist didn't like the fact that someone came in and retrobolted his natural line. You and I will probably never know, and it's not really worth arguing about.


(This post was edited by justroberto on Jan 14, 2009, 3:24 PM)


suilenroc


Jan 14, 2009, 3:26 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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Not arguing, just pointing out the fact that you seem to think poor cragg ethics are not annoying.


ADD:
In reply to:
Not arguing
Well, so.
In reply to:
pointing
Like an arrow?
In reply to:
fact that you seem
IMO it is seam!
In reply to:
not annoying.
We will never know..

beat you to it!!!


(This post was edited by suilenroc on Jan 14, 2009, 3:30 PM)


justroberto


Jan 14, 2009, 3:37 PM
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suilenroc wrote:
Not arguing, just pointing out the fact that you seem to think poor cragg ethics are not annoying.
...Says the guy with a pic on his profile of climbing at an illegal spot. Like I said, if you don't know the history of the route or why someone has decided to chop it, you can't know if it was appropriate or not. It may be "annoying" to you that a moderate crack got chopped, but you don't know the full story. Just let it rest, and please stop referring to any of this as "ethics." It's not.


suilenroc


Jan 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
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FAiL. I had permission.


rockandlice


Jan 15, 2009, 3:34 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:


Buy a set of nuts and you can still climb it. By the way, how do you know why someone chopped it? Don't be so presumptuous. For all you know, that line could have been put up 20 years before it got bolted. Maybe the first ascentionist didn't like the fact that someone came in and retrobolted his natural line. You and I will probably never know, and it's not really worth arguing about.

True, I don't know what the story is behind that line, but I do recall climbing it some 15 years ago when I was still in high school after seeing someone else climbing it on a previous weekend out there. I was surprised to see it had been bolted, but whatever. If I don't know the facts behind it's full history, I don't have any room to form an opinion.


dingus


Jan 16, 2009, 7:03 AM
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rockandlice wrote:
justroberto wrote:


Buy a set of nuts and you can still climb it. By the way, how do you know why someone chopped it? Don't be so presumptuous. For all you know, that line could have been put up 20 years before it got bolted. Maybe the first ascentionist didn't like the fact that someone came in and retrobolted his natural line. You and I will probably never know, and it's not really worth arguing about.

True, I don't know what the story is behind that line, but I do recall climbing it some 15 years ago when I was still in high school after seeing someone else climbing it on a previous weekend out there. I was surprised to see it had been bolted, but whatever. If I don't know the facts behind it's full history, I don't have any room to form an opinion.

That pretty much kills the POOR POOR PITIFUL NOOB argument sully offered.

DMT


kyleshea


Jan 16, 2009, 7:36 AM
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Re: [dingus] Plumbers crack gets the chop? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
rockandlice wrote:
justroberto wrote:


Buy a set of nuts and you can still climb it. By the way, how do you know why someone chopped it? Don't be so presumptuous. For all you know, that line could have been put up 20 years before it got bolted. Maybe the first ascentionist didn't like the fact that someone came in and retrobolted his natural line. You and I will probably never know, and it's not really worth arguing about.

True, I don't know what the story is behind that line, but I do recall climbing it some 15 years ago when I was still in high school after seeing someone else climbing it on a previous weekend out there. I was surprised to see it had been bolted, but whatever. If I don't know the facts behind it's full history, I don't have any room to form an opinion.

That pretty much kills the POOR POOR PITIFUL NOOB argument sully offered.

DMT

it does, however, fully support the POOR POOR PITIFUL MODERN WEAKSAUCE NOOB theory.

sack up, then rack up.


jman


Jan 16, 2009, 7:47 AM
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In reply to:
ADD: It just occurred to me that Lay Back and Enjoy It 5.10d was missing a bolt through the finger crack section... anyone else notice this?

I climbed it in the Fall and thought that I must have missed a bolt when I went through the finger crack section since the other climbs in that area are really well protected.

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