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estwing
Nov 17, 2002, 1:08 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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Which axes, boots, crampons, screws, gloves, outfit, and ropes would you get if you were not limited by budget concerns?
Thank you for the feedback,
Sam
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wildtrail
Nov 17, 2002, 2:06 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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Black Diamond Viper axes
Koflach boots
Hyper Harpoon crampons
Turbo screws
Outfit by Patagonia
Edelweiss ropes
Just to be "trendy" and look rich. Maybe I should change those axes to Charlet Moser.
What is best is what works, what you feel comfortable in/with, and stay away from those Russian ice screws.
Steve
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punk
Nov 17, 2002, 3:55 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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The best of the best and money is not an object here…
Tools: BD Rage, CM Quark, CM Axar, Grivel Tec Wing (I own the Rages and the quarks)
Crampon: BD bionic, CM M-10, Grivel Rambocomp and Rambo (I own the CM and the Rambocomp)
Screws: Grivel 360º (all of mine with few express)
Clothing: any they ALL good for any individual pieces
Gloves: BD DryTool, Granite gear Ice sparring, Cloudvail Iceflow, Patagonia stretch Triolet, Lowe Alpine - alpine gloves (I own the DryTool, and the Granite gear)
Ropes: Beal, Mammut, Starling, (I own the Starling)
They all very good it is a matter of personal preferences and forwarder more if u cant climb a cretin climb with any of these tools…one thing is evident…it is not the tool fault
As u see I have gotten the best of the best but it dosent make me a better climber all it dose is make the manufactures happy…anyhow just get what fit u the best
I forgot about shoes/boots
IMHO
for mountaineering in extreme cold the Lowa civetta extreme are hard to beat
for cold weather general winter mountaineering the Sportiva Nepal Top (No need for the extreme...that’s why u have the Lowa... )
For general mix and most waterfalls Ice climbs
Hands down...the Salomon Pro Ice
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-11-18 10:25 ]
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rendog
Nov 17, 2002, 5:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2002
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Amen to that Steve
Russians they know how to build a bomb but thier ice pro technology is SEVERLY lacking.
I already have almost everything that I want...
BD cobras
grivel rambo comp crampons
BD turbo express ice screws
BD ice gloves
marmot 3 ply stretch gor
a touque
now just need to update me pants to anything 3 ply with a drop seat( having to undo everything to go potty really sux)
Scarpa Alpha boots ( hard stiff slippers really)
and then I'm set
"D"
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petsfed
Nov 17, 2002, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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BD Cobras (w/dmm Clipper leashes)
CM Quarks (w/included leashes)
La Sportiva Trango Ice S or Scarpa Freney
Koflach Arctis Expe (for colder stuff)
BD Turbo Express Screws
BD Bionic or CM M-10 crampons w/antibot plates
BD Sabertooths (for glacier only climbs)
Patagonia outerwear all the way
BD Ice gloves or Lowe Alpine (forgot the name but pretty much identical to the BD's except lighter and 100% waterproof)
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bradhill
Nov 18, 2002, 9:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
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The only stuff that finances are keeping me from is:
Arc'Teryx clothing rocks, but is very pricey. I'd especially like one of their new hybrid shells. Softshell body, hardshell shoulders. It'd be sweet to just need one coat but they're like $450.
I'd get a big quiver of boots. I'd trade my Trango Extremes for Trango Ice Comps (lighter). I'd pick up a pair of Nepal Extremes for long, cold slogs, some stiff Asolo plastics for AT ski & climbing combo trips, and a pair of Mega Drus for summer mountain scrambles.
I'd trade in my tools for Grivel Alp Wings.
I love my Cloudveil Iceflow gloves, but I'd add a pair of Marmot Liquid Fire for colder conditions.
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furryfrisbee
Nov 18, 2002, 9:11 AM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
Posts: 260
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ALL OF IT!!!!!!!
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pbjosh
Nov 18, 2002, 9:26 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Axes: Cobras or if you're really into steep stuff and mixed Vipers or Quarks (Quarks are better for smaller hands, they have thinner grips).
Boots: Nepal Extremes unless you're going for super lightweight - then go Trango Ice or some of the new Kaylands which are seriously light (like 2-3lbs for the PAIR).
Crampons: M10's or Bionics.
Screws: Grivel 360's. The BD screws are just plain inferior, the hanger gets in the way and you have to clear a lot of ice. Plus the hanger is only in an acceptable/clippable orientation through about 20 degrees of range. On the 360 there are 270 degrees or range where the hanger is acceptable. Way better, hands down.
Ropes: Personal preference. I like Mammut, Edelweiss and Blue Water ropes...
Clothing: Get Schoeller stuff, generally called guide pants and jackets. Get thin/cheap fleece gloves for climbing and warm gloves for belaying. Get a good down for when your not climbing. The idea is to stay warm except right before you climb at which point you take off all the bulky jackets/gloves/hats/etc and climb, letting the climbing keep you warm. Once you're at the next belay or back on the ground or whatever, you bundle back up. Works wonderfully. The biggest mistake ice climbers make is wearing too much while climbing. Gortex generally sucks for ice climbing, I've certainly been there/done that/seen the better way
josh
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