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Poll: Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend?
Straight pull 20 / 51%
Over an edge 15 / 38%
Another idea (posted below) 0 / 0%
Pfannkuchen 4 / 10%
39 total votes
 

adatesman


Jan 16, 2009, 8:57 AM
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Adk


Jan 16, 2009, 10:34 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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I wanna see how it compares to yours!!!
I bet it breaks before does. Thought I really have nothing to bet...Cool


adatesman


Jan 16, 2009, 10:49 AM
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budman


Jan 16, 2009, 11:01 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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You know my vote. Straight pull would be ok if you were to fab a stem and do a worst case situation. Just curious how much the trigger slot reduces the strength, if you had to fall on one with the stem sticking out over the edge. Seems like a waste to pull a good rigid stem friend though, should be on a rack in the desert, doing what it was meant to do. Remember, rigid stem friends=strong, cheap, light.


flint


Jan 16, 2009, 11:36 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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how does the weight of your piece compair to the rigid friend?

j-


rockforlife


Jan 16, 2009, 12:04 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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just my 2cents but i would say just sraight pull it to give us the base strenth, and see how it compars to yours. then if its about the same take some more of yours and break them every way posible. but whatever you do we want video!!!


adatesman


Jan 16, 2009, 12:15 PM
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kennoyce


Jan 16, 2009, 12:34 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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I say jump up and down on it until it breaks, I think this is how all cam's should be tested, and they should be rated in number of jumps withstood rather than kN.

Just my thought.


dvd


Jan 16, 2009, 12:54 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
I say jump up and down on it until it breaks, I think this is how all cam's should be tested, and they should be rated in number of jumps withstood rather than kN.

Just my thought.

to accomplish this, find someone with an old pickup and start yanking. climbing rope can be used to connect the truck to the cam (two tests at once).

I volunteer my truck and retired ropes if you ever visit AR sandstone...


adatesman


Jan 16, 2009, 1:13 PM
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flint


Jan 16, 2009, 1:21 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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You should rig the pull tester to have your cam in the top brace and the real cam in a bottom brace and have a tug of war type fight to the death...

j-


adatesman


Jan 16, 2009, 1:31 PM
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flint


Jan 16, 2009, 1:39 PM
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adatesman wrote:
Kinda like the Survival of the Fittest competition with M&Ms.... Laugh

{hmmm.... Could I figure a way to do this without building another crack fixture?}

Fight to the death... I wish I could change my vote nowCrazy

j-


atlnq9


Jan 16, 2009, 9:06 PM
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Re: [budman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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budman wrote:
Seems like a waste to pull a good rigid stem friend though, should be on a rack in the desert, doing what it was meant to do. Remember, rigid stem friends=strong, cheap, light.

Yeah, I know, but:
A. I aint all that fond of them any smaller than 2.5, that big stem gets in the way everywhere but the desert
B. I got another #2 in much better condition, that one the trigger action wasn't as smooth due to slight rust on the axle

Another note I think this is what one would call the 4th generation ridged friend, possible 3rd (I don't know whether the black anodized stem models or the ones with all sizes red anodizing came first, tjis one is the latter). If I am correct there were five different models with the first two being like Aric's stem (just machined) and the last three having a slightly forged stem hence the name change from friends to forged friends...
Correct me if anybody knows for sure on the generations...


(This post was edited by atlnq9 on Feb 7, 2009, 6:54 PM)


shiro16


Jan 16, 2009, 11:24 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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Sliding X, with or without the X?
In response to :
In reply to:
{hmmm.... Could I figure a way to do this without building another crack fixture?}


(This post was edited by shiro16 on Jan 16, 2009, 11:26 PM)


atlnq9


Jan 20, 2010, 8:29 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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Hey Aric, did you ever test the forged friend?


bill413


Jan 22, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Re: [atlnq9] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend? [In reply to]
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Well, I'm a Gunks climber, so...

Many years ago I thought I was climbing a particular route at the Gunks. I got up into a place where I couldn't see how the holds went together. I managed to figure out a couple of more moves, and then came across the head (just the head) of a friend in a horizontal crack. I decided that bailing was the better course.

Naturally, I later learned that the route where the cam was was considerably harder than what I had envisioned doing.


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