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Blown shoes!! So soon :( ....
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Partner angry


Jan 18, 2009, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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Blown shoes!! So soon :( ....
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Sorry to disappoint but this thread is not another blown shoe whine fest. It's to hopefully educate you on what your shoes can and cannot do regardless of brand.

First off, lets get this out of the way, I probably climb more than you. I estimate 200-250 days a year. Also, I probably own more climbing shoes than you and all your buddies combined.

Anyway, lets get down to business.

On these boards you often see people bad mouthing shoes and blaming a shoe manufacturer for premature wear. I believe that regardless of brand, it's rarely the shoe makers fault.

1 - Reign in your footwork. It will make your shoes last longer.

2 - If your toes push the rand in front of the sole, you're shoes are too small. If the 1/2 size up doesn't feel as tight as you want, look into a different model of shoe that is both tight and designed for it.

3 - The excuse that your shoe wore out in 6 months instead of 9 or whatever arbitrary number is invalid. Remember that shoes don't wear out sitting around. More climbing wears them out faster than less climbing. Technique changes, balance changes, the types of routes you climbed change. It's all too complex to measure in months. I've got 20 year old Mariachurs on the the original rubber that don't need a resole. I've blown others shoes in 2 weeks. Both are perfectly normal. Also, you're probably getting more excited about climbing now (after 12 years I'm still getting more excited about climbing every year) so you're climbing more, climbing longer, and pushing yourself, that wears out shoes. There isn't a fixed element to gauge real wear time, what would that look like? PSI/Vector/Torque/minutes.

4 - Rock type/climbing type matters. Standing around on polished square edges, scraping your feet around as you desperately try to unlock a sequence, cramming your rand into a too-thin crack hoping for something. They all wear your shoes differently. There is sharp stuff to slick stuff. Pushing the grades will always wear it out faster, especially so in cracks or slabs. It's part of the game and should be expected.

5 - I'm made some mention of pushing the grades in the above points. The more at ease you are the longer your shoes will last. If you can climb 5.11 and decide to never climb harder than 5.9, your shoes might last for years. Climb 5.11 and decide to break into 5.12? Depending on route type, they might last a week or less. Why is that the shoe's fault?

6 - Finally, a resole isn't some crazy life altering decision. It's also not a big deal. It's one to three weeks without your shoes and they come back ready to climb on. If you're poor you can send shoes in early and often save on the rand cost. Or you can do it yourself, again you need to keep the rand because it's pretty much impossible to patch with a home job.


yodadave


Jan 19, 2009, 4:33 AM
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Re: [angry] Blown shoes!! So soon :( .... [In reply to]
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all well said.
If i can add one or two things though.......
Just like different rock types eating rubber, Gym climbing will also affect your shoes differently. If you are always smearing on an artificially rough surface you can expect consequences.
And if when outside your scuffing around in your shoes while waiting to get on a climb/problem again expect consequences

(10yrs ~150 days a year shoes lasting from 6 months to 8 years)


Partner j_ung


Jan 19, 2009, 7:42 AM
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Re: [angry] Blown shoes!! So soon :( .... [In reply to]
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Hey do you mind if I use this in the eventual new beginner FAQ?


rockforlife


Jan 19, 2009, 8:20 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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Re: [angry] Blown shoes!! So soon :( .... [In reply to]
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I think this should stay on the front page for a bit longer.Smile


Partner angry


Jan 19, 2009, 8:43 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Blown shoes!! So soon :( .... [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
Hey do you mind if I use this in the eventual new beginner FAQ?

It was going to be a rant but I guess I'm getting old.

Feel free to use it.


Alex.P


Jan 22, 2009, 9:47 PM
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Re: [angry] Blown shoes!! So soon :( .... [In reply to]
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Ive only had my shoes for about 5 months now and my shoes just broke through a few days ago and it makes climbing in the gym super painful because my big toe pushes through the little hole. I cilmb around 6 days a week so i cant complainSmile


(This post was edited by Alex.P on Jan 22, 2009, 9:48 PM)


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