Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: A good place for climbing around SF bay ?

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A good place for climbing around SF bay ?

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Tienours

Feb 3, 2009, 3:10 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2008
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A good place for climbing around SF bay ? (North_America: United_States: California) Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hi,

I've just settled in Mountain View. What are the best places for sport climbing around SF Bay ? I'm looking for routes from 5.7 to 5.10c.

Thanks for your help.

msiddens

Feb 3, 2009, 3:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2003
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Re: [Tienours] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Welcome to Mountain View. Pinncles National Monument is perhaps the closest area of any size. Otherwise, Sonora Pass on up to the Sierra. Colorado, it isn't though we do have a number of areas in the 3-4 hour range and 70 degree temps outside in Jan!

Bats

Feb 3, 2009, 4:03 PM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2007
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Re: [Tienours] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Castle Rock SP. Tahoe. Yosemite. Bishop.

crackmeup

Feb 3, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
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Re: [Tienours] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Indian Rock in Castle Rock SP has a handful of bolted routes starting at 5.8 and it's very convenient (about 100 yards from the parking lot). Try the South Face (5.8), Puckered Starfish (10a), Blowing Bubbles (10a), Vicious Circles (10c).

Mount Diablo also has a couple of sport routes in that range such as Amazing Face (5.9) and the bolted route to its right (5.10+/11-). There are other spots but not that many bolted routes, many can be climbed only on top rope. Check out the guidebooks at REI.

k.l.k

Feb 4, 2009, 9:03 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2007
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Re: [Tienours] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

The truth is that the Bay Area sucks for roped climbing.

Castle Rock has a little bit. Pinnacles is choss-- great if you like choss, not so great if you don't. Diablo is a long drive for three or four sandy slab climbs covered with gym noobs. There's a handful of good routes near Mickey's and Mt. Tam, but only a handful and conditions vary with the fog, tide, and crowds.

The closest thing to a real sport area is Table Mt. in Sonora, about a 2.5 hour drive to the east.

The bouldering is much better than the sport climbing--

dingus

Feb 4, 2009, 9:21 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Re: [k.l.k] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

This time of year?

Table Mtn, then Pinnacles. I'd visit in that order too. Table has a decent number of routes in the target range, though not dozens and dozens.

IMO the Pinnacles takes some getting used to. For the most part the bolted face climbs there ARE NOT sport climbs and offer a bit more objective hazards than some climbers are prepared to accept.

I never did take to the Pinnacles, myself. I can get scared shitless a lot closer to home, hehe.

In summer thouugh, neither place is habitable by rock climbers. Then its the Sierra and points beyond.

Also some limited climbing on Mt St Helena up at the head of Napa Valley, though I don't think that's worth the drive either.

Hard crimp bouldering in Vacaville, Nuttree Boulders. 5 minute walk from the car. Lots of hardish problems there.

DMT

Tienours

Feb 4, 2009, 4:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2008
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Re: [dingus] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I've being in Pinnacles...
Clearly, it's not sport climbing there !
(I don't trust that kind of rock)
Far away from my limestone cliffs in the south of France...

To be honest, I will rather do some trad climbing elsewher...

I'll try Table Mtn for now. I guess the best places for both trad and sport climbing are in the sierra and yosemite ?

k.l.k

Feb 4, 2009, 5:05 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2007
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Re: [Tienours] A good place for climbing around SF bay ? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Yeah, this isn't the South of France.

Table Mountain, and especially Gold Wall, is probably your best bet. If it isn't raining, that's a good winter/spring area.

Otherwise, you'll have to spend a lot of time in the gym. As I said, the bouldering is fairly good and there are a lot of very good boulderers. But most of us make the drive to the Sierra. The Donner-Truckee area, right off of Highway 80, is a destination sport climbing area as well as a great trad climbing spot.