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yodadave
Feb 6, 2009, 2:00 AM
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I'm looking for something that has easy access (no more than 3 mile hike), at least 3 pitchs, good car access (my honda isn't a fan of rumbling balds road), and something that people think is good fun. Oh and moderate to me is 5.9 or less.
Appreciate it.
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johnwesely
Feb 6, 2009, 2:57 AM
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Dopey Duck (.9) at shortoff looks amazing.
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jpetsch123
Feb 6, 2009, 3:16 AM
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well, not sure if you'd consider the approach easy, it is less than 3 miles with easy car approach, but The Daddy(5.6) and The Mummy (5.5) are two amazing climbs in the ampitheatre. If you climb fast you can do them both. maybe. The daddy is better in my opinion. I would definitly classify it as "good fun"
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sthcrag510
Feb 6, 2009, 3:43 AM
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second stanza on table rock is an awesome 5.8 its four pitchs and super fun. a must do in my book
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forkliftdaddy
Feb 6, 2009, 4:43 AM
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Maginot Line, 7, Shortoff
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Tipton
Feb 6, 2009, 4:56 PM
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jpetsch123 wrote: well, not sure if you'd consider the approach easy, it is less than 3 miles with easy car approach, but The Daddy(5.6) and The Mummy (5.5) are two amazing climbs in the ampitheatre. If you climb fast you can do them both. maybe. The daddy is better in my opinion. I would definitly classify it as "good fun"
If you go quick you can do more than that. When I went we did The Mummy, The Daddy and The Prow to exit the gorge. Hike out by headlamp and your golden. Its an awesome area well worth the hike, which is also very nice.
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mekwise
Feb 9, 2009, 2:48 AM
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In addition to what has been mentioned...
Table Rock - Peek a boo, 5.5, 3 pitches; My Route, 5.6, 5 pitches; North Ridge, 5.5, 3 pitches
NC Wall - Bumblebee Buttress, 5.8, 4 pitches
Amphitheater - Mummy, 5.5, 3 pitches; Daddy 5.6, 3-5 pitches; Prow, 5.4, 3 pitches;
Shortoff - Maginot Line, 5.7, 3-4 pitches; Dopey Duck, 5.9+, 3 pitches
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jamatt
Feb 9, 2009, 3:24 AM
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Some of the Table Rock multi's mentioned are fun (My Route, Cave Route, North Ridge), but don't seem full value to me. Each has pitches that border on 4th class, and huge ledges, and... I don't know, I've done them there're fun, I'll do them again, but...
They in no way compare to The Mummy or The Daddy. Both are simply incredible: excellent pro, great exposure and solid belays.
Shortoff is as good, but if you're into easy approaches, Shortoff ain't it. But, The Maginot Line is incredible for all the above reasons listed for mum and dad, and I thought not as hard as its 5.7+ rating. Little Corner is supposed to be good as well.
Conversely, I got my ass handed to me on Paradise Alley. 5.8+ must be a code for something amongst NC FA'ers.
(This post was edited by jamatt on Feb 9, 2009, 3:36 AM)
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yodadave
Feb 9, 2009, 12:22 PM
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thanks for all the great advice its all much appreciated. Now i just have to get out there 
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weatherm
Feb 9, 2009, 1:35 PM
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second standza!
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bmapple
Feb 9, 2009, 3:01 PM
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I have to agree with the Second Stanza recommendation. Supper fun, if not just a little cruxy on the third pitch. Cruxy in a good way. And, its just past the crowds that show up for the rest of the table rock moderates- you'll have no one climbing or dropping things above you.
White lightning at table rock and Bumblebee Buttress at NC wall are both worth looking at, too. Not as long others but more bang for the buck.
Yes, 5.8+ is indeed a code word. It really means .9, solid 5.9 at that.
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