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cdk13
Feb 9, 2009, 7:51 PM
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So my friend and I are planning on climbing at Looking Glass for the first time around early March. Can anyone suggest any particularly nice routes we should look into, other than the obvious high traffic ones?
Also, what are the conditions looking like for this time of the year around Looking Glass? Should we be expecting wet rock and cool temps, or should it be fairly dry and warm?
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charley
Feb 10, 2009, 7:28 AM
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I think this was just discussed a cpl weeks ago. Try the search feature or scroll down.
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johnwesely
Feb 10, 2009, 7:32 AM
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It depends on what you lead. Peregrine and Sundial are pretty similar to the Nose if it has a line, and there are a lot of moderate cracks on the south face.
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clemsonscooby
Feb 11, 2009, 10:43 AM
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S. Face runs for a while during the winter months because nothing is sucking up the water up top. There are a few lines that almost never run Second Coming, Rat's Ass, Unfinished Concerto, all moderate cracks. The nose area dries fast so thats a good spot if it rained recently. The Sun Wall will definitely stay warm and dry. It should be in the low 60's in March with a good amount of rain. Make sure you check out Rumbling Bald as well if the weather is cold. RB drys fast and is south facing. The climbing is similar to the Glass but with a few more bolts and steepness.
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cdk13
Feb 11, 2009, 4:16 PM
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sweet. thanks guys!
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colatownkid
Feb 11, 2009, 4:55 PM
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clemsonscooby wrote: S. Face runs for a while during the winter months because nothing is sucking up the water up top. There are a few lines that almost never run Second Coming, Rat's Ass, Unfinished Concerto, all moderate cracks. The nose area dries fast so thats a good spot if it rained recently. The Sun Wall will definitely stay warm and dry. It should be in the low 60's in March with a good amount of rain. Make sure you check out Rumbling Bald as well if the weather is cold. RB drys fast and is south facing. The climbing is similar to the Glass but with a few more bolts and steepness.
Unfortunately, you can't check out Rumbling Bald in early March because it will be closed. They are paving the parking area. It will not be open to climbing again until the end of March, beginning of April.
The South Face of Looking Glass is a good bet if it hasn't rained recently. However, parts of it will seep for two or three days if it recently rained hard enough. On the south face, I would definitely hit:
Rat's Ass 5.8
Gemini 5.8 (plan on doing this one immediately after Rat's Ass, starting from the lunch box ledge (which is the intermediate rap station for Rat's Ass). You can fire it in a single pitch. It wanders right at the top to a set of bolts just right of and below the obvious tree.)
Unfinished Concerto 5.9
The Sun Wall will likely be warm and sunny (hence the name), with little seepage. The routes there are in the 10 and up range.
The nose area is super-classic. If there is a line for the Nose itself, Peregrine and Sun Dial are pretty much the same thing (as stated above), just with slightly harder grades. Personally, I find Sun Dial to be the most enjoyable of the three, though they are really all just eyebrow slab climbing ad nauseum.
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clemsonscooby
Feb 12, 2009, 5:48 AM
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http://www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/chro/climbing_access.php
The road building is supposed to be late Feb. and early Mar. from the parks website. So it still may be available for your visit, just give the website a check or carolinaclimbers.org.
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yodadave
Feb 12, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Looking Glass Rock
just so you know
sounds like everyone is telling you to go southside anyways
(North Face)
All routes to the right* of Glass Menagerie and to the left of and including Twisted Laurel on the North Face of Looking Glass Rock are closed.
USFS, Pisgah Ranger District
(828) 877-3350
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