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Tipton
Feb 12, 2009, 8:10 PM
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I'm planning on heading over to Laurel Knob some time in the next couple months and wanted pointers for a rack. I know the rack suggestions for North Carolina from the Shull book but I wanted to be more specific.
I typically climb with mostly passive gear, my entire rack consists of:
BD Micro 1-6
BD Stoppers 3-13
DMM Alloy Offsets - 7-11
WC Rockcentrics - full set
Tri-cams pink through blue
.5 C4
#3 C4
#2 Link Cam
The question is, will I survive? I've been climbing on this for a while and am used to working to get pro, but on the slabs of LK I will be at its mercy. Let me know if I am insane for trying this on that rack or if you think I should pick up some other pieces to flesh it out a bit.
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clemsonscooby
Feb 13, 2009, 6:19 AM
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I typically bring doubles of C3 #1,2, and C4 #.4-2, single .3 and 3. It also depends on the route you are doing. If you are doing a pure trad route like Groover or Fathom that is what I would suggest. Something like Fathom Direct or Have Not Waste Not you can get away with a single rack because of bolted belays. I don't bring nuts, not many placements, but tri-cams will work.
(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Feb 13, 2009, 6:20 AM)
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johnwesely
Feb 13, 2009, 7:14 AM
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If you are doing groover you are going to want a 4 inch cam to protect the 5.8 pitch.
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rsmillbern
Feb 13, 2009, 7:20 AM
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clemsonscooby wrote: I typically bring doubles of C3 #1,2, and C4 #.4-2, single .3 and 3. It also depends on the route you are doing. If you are doing a pure trad route like Groover or Fathom that is what I would suggest. Something like Fathom Direct or Have Not Waste Not you can get away with a single rack because of bolted belays. I don't bring nuts, not many placements, but tri-cams will work.
Just to be clear, Grover doesn't have bolted belays except for the top and next to last pitch. I agree that nuts are of limited use, but I can't bring myself to leave em behind :-)
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Tipton
Feb 13, 2009, 7:52 AM
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rsmillbern wrote: Just to be clear, Grover doesn't have bolted belays except for the top and next to last pitch. I agree that nuts are of limited use, but I can't bring myself to leave em behind :-)
That was one of my primary concerns. I can deal with using only my tricams/cams for the pitch, but if the rock doesn't take nuts well then I'd be out of luck building the anchor. Groover, Fathom and Seconds are the routes I was looking at.
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johnwesely
Feb 13, 2009, 7:52 AM
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Another thing about groover is that the pitches are all 200 feet long, so it make be difficult for you to have 2 anchors set up at a time and safely protect the route with such a skimpy rack.
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clemsonscooby
Feb 13, 2009, 8:11 AM
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With a small rack I would suggest Fathom. Pitches 3, 4, and 5 all have bolted belays. There are bail opportunities on every pitch and there aren't that many gear placements on a few pitches. The 10a pitch crux is bolted. Pitch 2, the end of 3 and 4 are both kind of runout, but less than 5.8 in those sections. If you are looking for something harder and more sustained the other two I mentioned before are great. The new Carolina guide has LK topos also, but people on CCC have pdf's as well. I could send you them if you pm me your email.
(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Feb 13, 2009, 8:14 AM)
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Tipton
Feb 13, 2009, 8:57 AM
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Thanks for all the info. Unfortunately, it looks like I'll be buying some cams with my tax money.
Clemsonscooby, is it the LK Mini Guide available from the CCC website?
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clemsonscooby
Feb 13, 2009, 9:18 AM
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Yes, its in the sticky's in the Laurel Knob section on the forum.
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