Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:03 PM
Post #1 of 59 (7698 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 19, 2009
Posts: 47

140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (20 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.


Partner angry


Feb 19, 2009, 10:14 PM
Post #2 of 59 (7680 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (7 ratings)  
Can't Post

5 star material, all the way.

Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.


dlintz


Feb 19, 2009, 10:22 PM
Post #3 of 59 (7670 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1979

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

thenose wrote:
...So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

Sweet Jeebus, just use that little edge out to the left....it goes without extra pro.

d.


el_layclimber


Feb 19, 2009, 10:42 PM
Post #4 of 59 (7648 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

thenose wrote:
Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall.
Must have been a Petzl rope. Instead of the WC 0, you should have just placed a bolt.


thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:44 PM
Post #5 of 59 (7646 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 19, 2009
Posts: 47

Re: [angry] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
5 star material, all the way.

Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.

No it was david hasselhoff. He was doing a baywatch shoot in the nose area and I knew he was into climbing so I asked him if he wants to roll with me. He is fairly good we both onsighted a 13a for a warmup before we hit the nose that morning.

my partner is not relevant but the pro is.


(This post was edited by thenose on Feb 19, 2009, 10:48 PM)


thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:46 PM
Post #6 of 59 (7643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 19, 2009
Posts: 47

Re: [el_layclimber] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

el_layclimber wrote:
thenose wrote:
Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall.
Must have been a Petzl rope. Instead of the WC 0, you should have just placed a bolt.

its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?


northfacejmb


Feb 19, 2009, 10:54 PM
Post #7 of 59 (7636 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 234

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dang, its edmontonalta all over again.. You didn't happen to drop a backpack did you?


el_layclimber


Feb 20, 2009, 7:53 AM
Post #8 of 59 (7531 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thenose wrote:
its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?

Apparently not, as you felt the need to run it out 70 meters past your last piece. Next time instead of falling, just keep climbing. Oh, you are also going to need a longer rope; after all you had climbed the full 80 meters of its length before your harrowing fall.
As long as you place them by hand on lead and drunk, adding bolts is well in keeping with the original style in which the Nose was climbed.


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 8:55 AM
Post #9 of 59 (7442 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hmmmm....maybe watch Dosage 4 and see what Tommy C. does....or maybe just go ask him, he lives in Yosemite now.


patmay81


Feb 20, 2009, 9:27 AM
Post #10 of 59 (7398 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081

Re: [krusher4] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time. I can't decide which I want to believe it is. I'm leaning towards understated epic, but only because it would take hasselhoff to catch a fall like that!


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 9:31 AM
Post #11 of 59 (7384 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would really like to belive the story....but rc.com is not the best place for true stories LOL.


a-e-jones


Feb 20, 2009, 10:38 AM
Post #12 of 59 (7293 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 4, 2008
Posts: 295

Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

no defenitly a troll


a-e-jones


Feb 20, 2009, 10:40 AM
Post #13 of 59 (7289 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 4, 2008
Posts: 295

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

these trolls really are ruining rc.com


Partner angry


Feb 20, 2009, 10:43 AM
Post #14 of 59 (7276 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [a-e-jones] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

a-e-jones wrote:
so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

these trolls really are ruining rc.com

No, they're making it more fun.


yokese


Feb 20, 2009, 10:46 AM
Post #15 of 59 (7268 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 17, 2006
Posts: 672

Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

patmay81 wrote:
this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time.

I think is neither. T1, perhaps T1+.


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 10:48 AM
Post #16 of 59 (7264 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [yokese] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.


brotherbbock


Feb 20, 2009, 10:51 AM
Post #17 of 59 (7258 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 176

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

holy crap you are the man. this should have been filmed and put on the sharp end movie. glad you guys are ok. that must have been exciting running it out so far.


kennoyce


Feb 20, 2009, 11:01 AM
Post #18 of 59 (7239 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1302

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sounds like a blast, If you are ever in need of a partner let me know.

So to answer your question, I think that you must have been off route. I was under the impression that you can't go more than about 30 feet without running into a bolt on the nose, so you must have been doing a new variation.

Great job, the only thing I don't get is why you rapped back down, you had another rope, so you should have given it another go.


itstoearly


Feb 20, 2009, 11:18 AM
Post #19 of 59 (7213 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2005
Posts: 166

Re: [kennoyce] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Why didnt you just reach out and grab one of the many hand placements along that route to arrest your fall? Seems like the easier solution to me.

Either that, or you could just use less pro so you don't pump out and fall.


(This post was edited by itstoearly on Feb 20, 2009, 11:20 AM)


graniteboy


Feb 20, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #20 of 59 (7119 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1091

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

The pro is great on pitch 25. But for you sissies, the answer is to lead with a 1000 meter rope. That way, instead of taking a force factor 2 fall, you 'll simply ground out before ripping the belay station.
Then your partner and david Hasselhof can rap directly down to you to loot your wallet.


dynosore


Feb 20, 2009, 1:57 PM
Post #21 of 59 (7111 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1760

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level.

Sounds like you need to work on your protection skills, that zero should have held.


(This post was edited by dynosore on Feb 20, 2009, 1:58 PM)


northfacejmb


Feb 20, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #22 of 59 (7046 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 234

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ya, I agree with dynosore. If your placements are pulling from 140m falls you need someone to show you how to make better placements.


rhythm164


Feb 20, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #23 of 59 (7034 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [northfacejmb] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

i remember this time I jumped a chasm ropeless, took a hundred footer and stuck the opposite side of the wall with the two ice tools I jumped with...oh wait that was Vertical Limit, nevermind.


rockandlice


Feb 20, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #24 of 59 (6992 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2008
Posts: 622

Re: [rhythm164] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pffffft, you fell?


FAIL


Hennessey


Feb 20, 2009, 8:51 PM
Post #25 of 59 (6924 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 2, 2007
Posts: 595

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook