Feb 27, 2009, 5:52 PM
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A monthly article of the greats.
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I was thinking that RC.Com could use a Monthly article. A article of the great people who Started climbing in the older days. When they climbed with boots and Hemp rope. Also the people who furthered the sport. Of all aspects Traditional, Sport, and Bouldering. Sort of a from then to now. I think it would be good reading and an interesting view as to where, when, why. these people were drawn to the sport. Just a thought.
I think there are already a number of other better resources available for this: supertopo discussions, books, mags, etc. These resources are better because they have more access to the "greats" (in the case of supertopo, most of the conversations are led by the people that actually are "great"), provide more thorough research, and have the requisite writing pedigree to make the stories interesting. A monthly mediocre article is a waste of time.
In my eyes, this site is already spreading itself thin (didn't RC.com try sending out monthly emails a year or two ago?). I'd rather see the site really make the route index useful, useful enough that it could integrate with an iPod or some other app. In other words, I don't see a reason to focus on adding more mediocre aspects to the site, why not refine what's here? But, if you want to write an article a month, go ahead!
I have googled every name I can think of. I find some info on some and nothing on others. I would not mind Researching and talking with them. I think it would be a great perspective as to why and how they started climbing. The battles along the way. Time off. Time spent looking for new destinations. The big climbing areas of the day. I would like to know what motivated these people to do what they did.
Instead of destination crags (which have thousands of articles about them already) how about user's local crags. A bit on local history, current pioneers, the classics, personal favourites etc... I'd burn one out on the Buchaille or Aonoach Dubh that would be pretty good. They would take research, though.
Nice Idea A article of the old schoolers. At there home crag. There favorites, where they fell to their knee's and thanked the climbing gods for the sport. I agree local crags sounds good, but I would like to see more of the founders of the sport. In each of the regions of the world.
Subantz, it is unlikely you'll get very far via the internet. (An exception is John Gill's website on the history of bouldering.) The old school happened before the internet. Much of what went on is undocumented, some is in older climbing histories. If you are serious, I'd begin by joining the American Alpine Club if you aren't already a member, because their library is the best resource for such materials.
The real pioneers of American climbing are all dead. There was, perhaps, a Golden Age from 1960 to 1980 (I'm kinda makiing this up on the spot) initially fueled by the pace of developments in Yosemite; some of those folks are dead too and the rest are gettin' pretty long in the tooth. Some of that generation can be found on Super Topo, but without knowing the real name behind the screen name you can't pick them out.
Certain parts of the country have never had a proper history (as far as I know), the Southeast being, I think, the most prominent example, with the Midwest a somewhat distant second (not because there aren't interesting stories and amazing accomplishments, but because the scope of climbing is considerably smaller than the enormous spectrum available in the Southeast).
I am genuinely embarrassed by my ignorance of what went on in the Southeast. In the Midwest, Devil's Lake, WI is one of the climbing centers. John Gill climbed there early on, and Jim Erickson began there. Pete Cleveland, one of the unsung pioneers of American climbing, was doing the hardest climbs in the country there for a while. And a local farmer turned state legislator, Dave Slinger, was a home-grown phenomenom, soloing incredibly hard routes for the day in his carpenter boots:
History at Devil's Lake is in bad shape. Various active groups climbed there with almost no communication between them. Climbs were done, named, then rediscovered and renamed---I don't think anyone knows for sure who did what in the fifties and sixties, for example.
Instead of destination crags (which have thousands of articles about them already) how about user's local crags. A bit on local history, current pioneers, the classics, personal favourites etc... I'd burn one out on the Buchaille or Aonoach Dubh that would be pretty good. They would take research, though.
I hate to admit it -- it coming from self-annointed intertard celebrity Sungam and all -- but this is probably the top-notch idea of the thread.
There are plenty of worthwhile, "non-destination" crags the history on would be interesting to find out. The larger crags and bigger climbing celebrities, well, they seem to be represented by much better writing talent than I see represented here.
For the major climbing greats, it would probably be better to get permission to link the definitive texts. As rgold points out, John Gill's site is an excellent source. For neglected greats -- such as the SE climbers rgold also mentions -- perhaps the research and interviews would be more in order.
Personally, an amateurish article by somebody who is asking the most peripheral of questions of already well-plumbed depths isn't something I'm looking to read. I find the best climbng articles I've read are often written straight from the source, or by those compatriots of the greats who already know what the hell the game being played is.
Well, I guess I will continue searching for info. I think you guys PEED IN MY FIRE. We all no the outcome of that.
And perhaps you'll write an article of all your findings.
If you're going to sugest to have something done, you should be the first one to step up to the plate to do it. As mentioned before, anyone is free to submit an article.
rgold that's a great pic, thanks for posting. I know how slick that rock can be, and the flannel around the waist is awesome. No posing, just wear what ya brung.
The inherent problem of course is one must know something of history to have a hope of discussing it, especially when discussing with someone who was there.
Not a lot of young bucks out there writing the histories to anything?
The inherent problem of course is one must know something of history to have a hope of discussing it, especially when discussing with someone who was there.
Not a lot of young bucks out there writing the histories to anything?
rgold may have to interview himself!
DMT
These were exactly my points. I don't mean to pee in dude's fire. It's rude and, well, it has a vaporous stink. Go for it, man! Just do a bit of research. Perhaps link the chain between one old hardman to the next, making sure to the call the next one on the slander the one previous gave you.
The inherent problem of course is one must know something of history to have a hope of discussing it, especially when discussing with someone who was there.
You appear to be confused about how the internet works.
O.k I will get a pen a notebook. Lets get this train moving. Who's First. My local hero's, I think that would be in order. I can probably locate them a little easier, But Rgold I will get to you soon I promise. You to Angry.
I would love to read more about Chuck Wilts, they have a brief history about him in Bob Gains Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks guide book. Sounds like a great climbing pioneer.
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