Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


gowser


Mar 5, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #1 of 8 (3632 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2003
Posts: 94

EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber?  (North_America: Mexico)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Has anyone ever taken a climbing partner that climbs at a 5.6-5.8 level to EPC before? just curious, as it is cheaper to fly there then many U.S. destinations. Should we go there, is it worth it?

any info would be appreciated!

cheers,
neil


potreroed


Mar 5, 2009, 7:47 PM
Post #2 of 8 (3620 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1453

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Definitely worth it. There are dozens of moderate routes all well-bolted with good anchors. You'll have a blast here.


granite_grrl


Mar 9, 2009, 8:53 AM
Post #3 of 8 (3554 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14831

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

gowser wrote:
Has anyone ever taken a climbing partner that climbs at a 5.6-5.8 level to EPC before? just curious, as it is cheaper to fly there then many U.S. destinations. Should we go there, is it worth it?

any info would be appreciated!

cheers,
neil
I see what you did there!!

But seriously, that might be a fun destination for the two of you to go to. Much more interesting than Vegas.


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 9, 2009, 9:44 AM
Post #4 of 8 (3522 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1023

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What is EPC?

rob.calm


mike_devildog


Mar 9, 2009, 9:49 AM
Post #5 of 8 (3514 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2005
Posts: 111

Re: [robdotcalm] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

El Potrero Chico ,Nuevo Leon Mexico


ncrockclimber


Mar 9, 2009, 10:13 AM
Post #6 of 8 (3499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2006
Posts: 278

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Do it. Tons of stuff to do!


gblauer
Moderator

Mar 16, 2009, 9:25 PM
Post #7 of 8 (3435 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 2816

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am assuming the your climbing partner has limited climbing experience. If that is the case, then I think the biggest issue that you will have is making sure that your climbing partner is safe and comfortable while multi pitch climbing.

Although all the anchors are bolts, there are many climbs that have hanging belays. Is your partner comfortable enough to belay you while hanging off anchors? Do you have confidence in your partner's belaying? Will you be able to keep your partner safe on long, multi pitch climbs?

Can your partner rappel? I would make sure that your partner has rappelling experience and is comfortable loading their rappel device, using an autoblock etc. Does your partner have basic self rescue skills?

That said, there are plenty of moderate single pitch climbs, or just do the first couple of pitches of many of the long moderates.


I just returned from EPC with a less experienced climber and she did just fine. While she seconds 7's and 8's at the Gunks she was quite strong on several of the 10's and was able to complete Dope Ninja (a multi pitch 10b). Her partner was responsible for leading all climbs and making sure that she was set up to belay, rappel etc.

As far as when to go, you can go any time. If you go now, you will likely want to climb in the shaded canyons. There are plenty of shaded climbs. I have climbed as late as end of April at EPC and really enjoyed the warm breezes in the shady climbing areas.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Mar 16, 2009, 9:28 PM)


Alpine07


Mar 16, 2009, 9:40 PM
Post #8 of 8 (3419 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842

Re: [gowser] EPC - taking a 5.6-5.8 climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would highly recommend taking them out for a day of multi pitch, even if on a small crag, if they don't have a whole lot of experience. Split it up into a couple pitches. Just to run through everything. Its a lot easier to correct their errors and get everything straightened out before you do any bigger climbs.

Edit: Spelling.


(This post was edited by Alpine07 on Mar 16, 2009, 9:47 PM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$292.46 (10% off)
$159.57 (10% off)
$16.16 (10% off)
$205.16 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook