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MalpaG3
Mar 9, 2009, 8:41 PM
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Hey all, my name is Tony and I'm moving from Detroit to Denver (if all goes well) towards the end of the summer.
I've been climbing (sport) for about 6 years now, with a few trips to the Red River Gorge, and some climbing in Minas Gerais, Brazil, under my belt.
I have a few questions.
First, what books are the best references/climbing guides for Colorado?
Second, how close to Denver (driving distance) is most good climbing? I define good for me as being a plethora of 5.9-5.11 sport routes. Any favorites?
Third, any other good pieces of advice about moving to the state, living in Denver, etc?
Cheers!
-T.
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cracklover
Mar 9, 2009, 9:27 PM
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Others may have more, or better info for you, but I'm happy to share what I know, since I just moved to Denver from Boston at the end of last summer.
There is excellent sport climbing near Denver. You have probably 500 - 1000 two star and above sport routes within 30 minutes of downtown Denver. The main spots for sport are Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, and North Table Mountain. So I'd start with those guidebooks if I were you. Further out, we have Rifle (for harder sport) and Shelf Road for a huge limestone destination area.
One other big piece of advice: I don't know what the climbing scene is like around Detroit, but here in CO there is a history of sport versus trad wars that got pretty nasty, and is still simmering not far under the surface among some. So it's best to tread lightly, and don't go spewing about how everything should be bolted, or "if you don't like bolts, you should just skip them." I'm not saying you would do that, I'm just sharing a word to the wise.
In particular, there are a number of places where bolted and gear protected routes coexist in a way that doesn't happen in some other more traditional or more sport-y areas of the country, so best to just try to get a feel for the place for a while.
Finally, there's lots of fantastic climbing, and like me, coming from an area where for half the year, you have to be a masochist to brave the horrible weather to get on rock, I think you'll be totally psyched about rock climbing in the winter. I know it's been a particularly warm winter here in CO, but it's been absolutely fantastic, and I've loved it.
Cheers,
GO
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MalpaG3
Mar 9, 2009, 9:46 PM
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Awesome!
Great post. Yeah, the "scene" in MI is pretty non-existent. I got started climbing in a gym. It's just what it is in MI. We have one outdoor destination in our lower peninsula that is a 50ft cliff of top-rope only routes. So, needless to say, we go out of the state a lot to climb (usually to the Red River Gorge, the New, or Lions Head in Ontario).
I have heard of this war in CO over trad v sport. I don't care either way to be honest. I can't trad climb right now because it's horrendously more expensive to get into. I think I will buy a small rack (abuse the last of my discount) before I go. Cams, nuts, whatever, and just learn when I get there. I'll try not to spout off about it either way or another, considering the tension.
The information about the availability of climbing and it's distance from Denver has me more excited than ever!
I don't want to set myself up for failure early on, but I'm looking forward to moving to a state where more people climb/ski/snowboard/etc and it's not as much of a "defining" characteristic about who you are, as it is in MI. My problem is that the climbers around here tend to be one particular kind of person, and that kind of person doesn't meld well with me on climbing trips. I'm not underhandedly (or passively) competitive, I don't rate my testicular fortitude in relation to how many hard routes I have "led", I don't take my shirt off as frequently as possible (unless it is truly unbearably hot), I don't make or enjoy dumb/offensive jokes, I don't manly "wrestle" with other "guys", etc. I'm sure this climber exists in Colorado, but I'm also sure that there has to be other kinds of people who climb. I don't hate these kind of climbers really, but we just tend to not get along to well on longer car-rides/trips.
I am a pretty easy going guy that climbs because it's fun, and I enjoy the personal challenges it provides. Are there good places in Denver to meet folks to climb with? Maybe not the traditional climbing gym, but maybe a bar that climber's frequent?
Cheers!
(This post was edited by MalpaG3 on Mar 9, 2009, 9:47 PM)
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djlachelt
Mar 9, 2009, 11:37 PM
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MalpaG3 wrote: First, what books are the best references/climbing guides for Colorado? Second, how close to Denver (driving distance) is most good climbing? I define good for me as being a plethora of 5.9-5.11 sport routes. Any favorites?
Hi Tony, welcome to the state (when you get here).
As for books, you don't want any "Colorado" guide books. You'll want books specific to the area you'll be climbing in. For each area there's generally one that most people consider definitive.
Clear Creek Canyon is just outside of Golden (suburb of Denver ~30min drive depending on where you live). It has lots of sport climbing. There's a new guide that I'm not very familiar with since I haven't climbed there in quite a while (preferring stuff closer to where I live).
http://www.chesslerbooks.com/...m.asp?idProduct=6215
Shelf Road is about an hour away (again depending on where you live). It also has tons of sport.
http://www.rei.com/product/729788
http://mountainproject.com/...shelf_road/105744267
I'm in Northern Colorado... and prefer climbing in these areas: Boulder Canyon, Big Thompson Canyon, Rocky Mtn National Park, Vedauwoo (WY). Both Boulder Canyon and Big Thompson Canyon (about 1hr - 1.5hrs from Denver) have lots of choices for sport climbing.
MountainProject is a great resource to use for most climbing spots in CO.
http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/105708956
As for the trad/sport issue. I haven't found that to be a big deal. Since most areas have already been established, you just go with the flow. If you don't do trad yet don't worry, you won't run out of new sport routes to climb for a long time. When/if you find someone to take you trad climbing you'll have an even wider range of choices.
I think you'll generally be closer to more choices for climbing if you live on the N side of Denver (but someone might disagree). And for access to skiing, obviously the west side of Denver is better.
I highly recommend a trip to Jurassic Park. It's not very big, but it's very scenic:
http://mountainproject.com/...ributaries/105744337
I also recommend The Monastery:
http://mountainproject.com/...son_canyon/105744343
Feel free to ask questions about any specific area that looks interesting to you.
Cheers, Jon
(This post was edited by djlachelt on Mar 9, 2009, 11:39 PM)
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jdefazio
Mar 10, 2009, 3:13 PM
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Tony-
You have already met "Requirement #1 : Be from the midwest"
If you meet "Requirement #2 : Be white" - you should have a seamless transition into Denver.
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MalpaG3
Mar 10, 2009, 3:19 PM
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I'm not sure I get what you're saying.
These are requirements to live in Denver, or requirements for climbing with you?
I heard Denver is pretty vanilla, which is disappointing because I really appreciate the diversity of Detroit proper where I live right now.
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jdefazio
Mar 10, 2009, 3:41 PM
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MalpaG3 wrote: These are requirements to live in Denver, or requirements for climbing with you?
Heh heh. No.
For some reason this brought to mind that 2004 David Cross stand-up bit about segrated graveyards..."wait but I'm a skeleton, you can't tell!" ...but I digress.
MalpaG3 wrote: I heard Denver is pretty vanilla, which is disappointing because I really appreciate the diversity of Detroit proper where I live right now.
There are some areas that might fit the bill in East Denver, but it is generally bland IMO. Just go there and see how it suits you. If you like it great, if not you can always just climb ski ride fish etc. as much as you can until you are ready to move on.
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MalpaG3
Mar 10, 2009, 3:44 PM
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Haha! Nice reference! I apparently don't have that Cross skit. He's one of my favorite comedians though. Segregated graveyards?! yikes.
I mean I'm OK with bland for a little while, but ignorance gets to me pretty quickly.
Thanks again! 
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shockabuku
Mar 10, 2009, 3:50 PM
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MalpaG3 wrote: Haha! Nice reference! I apparently don't have that Cross skit. He's one of my favorite comedians though. Segregated graveyards?! yikes. I mean I'm OK with bland for a little while, but ignorance gets to me pretty quickly. Thanks again!
Colorado is not a terribly diverse place but I generally don't find it to be ignorant or terribly prejudicial. Of course, I'm from eastern Pennsylvania which I find to be a little more diverse and a lot more prejudiced.
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MalpaG3
Mar 10, 2009, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: Colorado is not a terribly diverse place but I generally don't find it to be ignorant or terribly prejudicial. Of course, I'm from eastern Pennsylvania which I find to be a little more diverse and a lot more prejudiced.
Cool. That's kind of the vibe I got in the Pacific NW.
Yeah, suburban Detroit is home to the American Nazi Party. Gooood times.
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cracklover
Mar 11, 2009, 4:05 PM
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I hesitated to say anything in regards to your question about snobbery in the climbing scene. The truth is, I think you'll find some of that everywhere, including Denver (in fact, Boulder is famous for it). But I think you're absolutely right when you suggest that the bigger scene here means that you'll find many subgroups. It may take you some time to find one with a really "custom fit", but I'd be willing to bet you'll find it in the Denver area. My experience has been that climber interests and personalities has been pretty diverse here. From all trad to all sport. From people who are only interested in early ascents to people who stick to the trade routes. From people pushing really hard grades on gear to people who just enjoy the social scene. People who crack open the first beer as they get in the car to start driving on the road trip, to people who are straight up no-nonsense. So yeah, I'm sure you'll find people you get along with.
On a personal note. while I'm more of a traddie than a sport climber, I do enjoy both. Feel free to look me up when you get out here.
Cheers,
GO
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ultraloveninja
Mar 24, 2009, 2:41 AM
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Thanks for the post!
My wife and I are planning a trip out to the Boulder/Denver area in April-May and we are looking for some moderate sport climbs (5.8-5.10) and it seems that this info that you have posted should help us out.
If you know of any other info it would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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rockgirlCO
Mar 24, 2009, 3:18 AM
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Best two guidebooks for the Front Range sport areas are hands down: Darren Mabe's Clear Creek Canyon book and the Haas/Schneider North Table Mountain book. Both are in color and really intelligent in their layouts. In June there will be a new Boulder Canyon book which is sorely needed as the "current" guide is the 1998 Rossiter book, fat but woefully out of date. The two color books set the bar pretty high; here's hoping that the new book will be top notch.
My partners and I always check in at MountainProject.com because there is extra beta from climbers and usually topo photos; it's a good supplement. I use MP.com for Shelf Road exclusively because the Fred Knapp book is so freaking useless.
A word about sport in Boulder Canyon: don't fully trust "sport" route notations either at MP.com or in any guide. You will find 50% need a piece of pro or 2 to be safe. Even newer bolted routes may call for pro. Drives me nuts (I don't lead trad.) MP.com will usually have climber comments suggesting where and what to place.
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ultraloveninja
Mar 24, 2009, 4:06 AM
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I've noticed that many guidebooks/beta mention using pro in a majority of sport routes. Been used to routes at RRG, so this will be a change for us, but it still looks like fun regardless.
Thank you for the info! I really appreciate it!
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MalpaG3
Mar 29, 2009, 7:23 PM
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rockgirlCO wrote: Drives me nuts (I don't lead trad.) MP.com will usually have climber comments suggesting where and what to place.
That's a great pun.
Cool, thanks for the info again. I think I'm going to pick up a small trad rack before I leave my prodeal.
cheers! |
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MalpaG3
Jun 21, 2009, 6:38 AM
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So, I picked up a beginner's trad rack which consists of the BD Classic Stopper Set, Camalots .5-3 with only 1 other double.
I'll be moving to Denver on the 24th of July. We're moving to Mayfair, but I'll have almost the whole month of August to get to know Colorado and it's climbing (and road cycling and backpacking!).
I'm really nervous about not knowing anyone or having a climbing partner.
So, this is my personal ad, hah!
About me: I'm about 5'4", 130lbs. I am going to be getting my Master's in International Affairs at University of Denver's Korbel school. I am 24 years old, and I'm pretty soft-spoken. I really appreciate people who are down to Earth. That doesn't mean I dislike people who aren't serious enough, it's just that I appreciate calm and rational. I don't like frat boys, guys trying to pinch my nipples or wrestle with me otherwise.
I really like watching hockey (sorry, but I'm a Wings fan for life), and I'm a fan of good beer.
Also, as this post points out, I'm also pretty open and honest.
About my climbing: I have climbed in the Red River Gorge a few times. I top-rope 5.11's and I am still trying to improve my leading. On lead, I'm comfortable with easier 5.10's. I am interested in learning how to trad climb. I don't think a measure of a person is held in how many hard lead climbs he/she has done. I'm not super competitive but I am quite motivated.
If you want to show a nice guy some great and fun places to climb in Colorado, please shoot me a message to lonememe@gmai.com!
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cracklover
Jun 22, 2009, 12:16 AM
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angry wrote: MalpaG3 wrote: I don't think a measure of a person is held in how many hard lead climbs he/she has done. You'll never make it in Boulder!!
Ha! That's funny. And MalpaG3 - it's not directed at you, more at the Boulder scene.
GO
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MalpaG3
Jun 22, 2009, 8:39 PM
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rofl, it's ok! I took it as such.
Can't wait!!
32 days and counting!!!! yikes.
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MalpaG3
Jun 26, 2009, 5:24 PM
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Less than one month.
So, I'm picking up the guidebooks for CCCanyon and Shelf Road Rock.
I also noticed that there are...umm...quite a few snakes out this way, eh?
We'll see how that goes!
Thanks again for all the info! I might take a few of you up on your offers to go out sometime soon.
Cheers!
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angry
Jun 26, 2009, 5:33 PM
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I don't think the snakes are a problem.
In the warmer months they are pretty thick at Table Mountain but it's WAY!! too hot to think about climbing there. In the summer you'll be in higher elevations and will be more concerned about marmots eating your backpack than snakes.
FWIW, I've ran into snakes at both table mountains, green mountain in Lakewood (underneath the porta potty rattling, I jumped as far as I could when I exited), and in the Poudre Valley in Ft. Collins. ALL of these incidents I was either mtn. biking or trail running.
The only place I run into a lot of snakes while climbing is actually Yosemite. And I run into a ton of them there. Once or twice near Moab but I see more tarantulas and scorpions than snakes over that way.
By snakes, I mean rattlers. I am not concerned in the least by anything non-venemous and lacking legs.
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MalpaG3
Jul 14, 2009, 5:06 PM
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Good to hear. I'm with ya, if it's not venomous then it's fine by me.
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MalpaG3
Jul 29, 2009, 8:07 AM
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Hey guys, silly question because I know of the many many aspects of liability and bad news that can come of this, but is there anywhere that rents harnesses and shoes in Denver?!
My friend who helped us move wants to go climb with us, but he's a size 11 and definitely not small enough to fit my secondary harness!
Anyone?
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marc801
Jul 29, 2009, 11:44 AM
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MalpaG3 wrote: Hey guys, silly question because I know of the many many aspects of liability and bad news that can come of this, but is there anywhere that rents harnesses and shoes in Denver?!
Harness: no one in the states rents harnesses because of liability. The only exceptions are
1. in a gym
2. with a guide service
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MalpaG3
Aug 23, 2009, 6:31 AM
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So, after a month of being in Colorado, I've been able to get out climbing four times already!!! I love it!!!
The first two trips were kind of a bust. However, the last two to the Clear Creek Canyon have been amazing.
I wanted to thank everyone who helped out by pointing out places to go and books to pick up (I think I've spent about $80 in books so far)!
Cheers!
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