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Craggmire
Mar 5, 2009, 5:51 AM
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anybody ever used them?
They look cool and bomber active pro for ten bucks a pop would be a dream
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taydude
Mar 5, 2009, 6:16 AM
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From what I've heard about sliding nuts, they're not as bomber as you seem to think. Biggest issue is if that sliding piece slides to the side it will just pop out.
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bkalaska
Mar 5, 2009, 7:28 AM
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Ball Nutz seem to be a better choice. I think they are great in the three smallest sizes, but hesitate to use the Liberty ones because they don't fit into a slotted grove like the Ball Nutz.
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johnwesely
Mar 5, 2009, 4:03 PM
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I have one. It is pretty neat, and I place it on every climb. It has only come out once, and that was after I weighted the rope and it got yanked really hard to the right.
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johnwesely
Mar 5, 2009, 4:04 PM
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http://www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com
did anyone else read this as wilderness sex change because that is not an operation I would want done in the field?
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adatesman
Mar 5, 2009, 4:08 PM
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johnwesely
Mar 5, 2009, 4:09 PM
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Oh dear. I must say that I would rather have a sex change by an expert as opposed to in the wilderness.
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jeepnphreak
Mar 5, 2009, 9:52 PM
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johnwesely wrote: http://www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com did anyone else read this as wilderness sex change because that is not an operation I would want done in the field?
Yes I did, I was laughing when I look at the top of my browser and had to reread the link 
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GeneralZon
Mar 5, 2009, 9:59 PM
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Sorta like the Pen Island or The Therapist websites:
www.penisland.com
or
www.therapist.com
And yes i am bored at work.
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minibiter
Mar 5, 2009, 11:10 PM
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I'd take ball nutz over those things.
Is the price going to matter when you fall on it?
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shimanilami
Mar 5, 2009, 11:17 PM
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I've haven't used those specifically, but if you weight ballnuts they sometimes weld into place. And if you fall on them, they can be a real bitch to remove. (It beats decking out, though.)
I'd guess that these might suffer a similar problem.
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patmay81
Mar 5, 2009, 11:57 PM
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the ad says they "don't weld like other sliders", I dont know if that means they weld worse, or not at all.
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anonymi
Mar 11, 2009, 6:15 PM
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Got a couple, but still not had cause to use them. Info with them suggests only placing them in horizontal cracks (sliding wedge face down). This may be due to the stated concerns about the lack of a groove allowing the wedge to slide sideways off the nut. Might consider judicious application of a steel file to the nut, make a groove.
Cheap enough though, and I reckon they'll go in someday when nothing else will ...
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anonymi
May 8, 2009, 11:04 PM
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Pictures of the modified tech nuts. They seem much more stable now, fairly bomber in vertical parallel cracks.
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rocknice2
May 9, 2009, 11:03 AM
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Just get some Ball Nutz
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johnwesely
May 9, 2009, 12:26 PM
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There isn't a taper on the side that the mouse is on.
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rocknice2
May 9, 2009, 12:38 PM
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The groove you put on it looks deeper on top than at the bottom.
This would negate any taper regardless of which side its on.
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pendereki
May 9, 2009, 12:48 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: The groove you put on it looks deeper on top than at the bottom. This would negate any taper regardless of which side its on.
Agreed. Your modification seems to alter the functional angles in a bad way. I would not climb on that anymore!
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joeforte
May 9, 2009, 2:15 PM
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I think you guys are jumping conclusions. This is very similar to cam angles. The more taper he takes out of that nut (trending towards, but not completely, parallel sided), the more holding power it is going to have. This is at the expense of usable range. Cam manufacturers have to find the same ballance, between range and holding power. A bigger taper angle would give him a lot more range, but much less holding power. Everything is a trade-off in the end. If he were to take the taper out of the nut competely, than yes, it would be a death trap. I don't think you can make that judgement from the pictures he provided.
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johnwesely
May 9, 2009, 2:24 PM
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Also, the nut tapers alot on the other side. That little bit of filing would not take it out.
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anonymi
May 12, 2009, 2:29 AM
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I appreciate the discussion and concerns, but the taper is indeed almost entirely on the opposite side. I tried to take out just enough to provide an even running groove on the flat side.
The range has narrowed somewhat, but Ive tested them in completely parallel cracks of various sizes and was able to jump on them with confidence. I think the reduced functional range is compensated by the increased stability, cos if the mouse falls off the edge of the nut, its all over. The slightly reduced taper also means that they are less likely to slip out of position once placed.
Well the proof will be in the pudding. Im taking them to Yosemite in a few days, and will report on their performance.
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