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loosing gear?
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old_school


Oct 27, 2001, 10:17 AM
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loosing gear?
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What happesn when you bail from a sport climb, do you loose gear or what?


compclimber


Oct 27, 2001, 10:21 AM
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If you are indeed "bailing" (meaning you have to get the hell out of there) then you are probably going to leave gear on the route.

If you are talking about cleaning a route after you have completed it, its a whole different story. One in wich I would be happy to enlighten you with if that is what your looking for.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 27, 2001, 3:38 PM
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If you bail off a sport climb, you should do it from a biner, and clean the rest on the way down. Do not leave a 'poot' sling on a bolt just because you are cheap. They are much harder to clean on lead, and they look like ____. Finish the route, or pay the price of one biner.


rrrADAM


case22


Oct 28, 2001, 4:53 PM
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Most of the time, people 'bail' off of a quickdraw. However, all of my friends are cheap, so they use repair links. Which, I really wouldn't recommend.


fusion


Nov 30, 2001, 2:51 PM
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Buy a cheap oval beaner.. and carry it just in case you ever have to bail.


kam_ill_eon


Dec 3, 2001, 10:38 AM
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I have to go with the majority. Buy a $3 biner and leave it but the key is don't bail.


munckee


Dec 3, 2001, 10:48 AM
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I have a similar (sort of) question. I haven't encountered this yet, but I have thought about it: How do you clean a severly overhanging sport route? Do you rap down and get some big time swing going to reach your draws, or what?


woodse


Dec 3, 2001, 10:54 AM
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just buy one of those 50 cent keychain biners!!!! That'll teach ya to bail!! I've actually seen people put a quickdraw into the highest bolt they can reach, attach it to their harness so they are being held up by the bolt, then untie the rope put it through the bolt and then re-tie the rope to thier harness, unclip the quick draw and get belayed down. I'm pretty sure this is not a preferred metyhod for two reasons:

1: It is scary hanging from just a quickdraw.

2: The bolts are usually very hard on your rope because they can be a little sharp!!

I say.........FINISH THE ROUTE!!!!


coach713
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Dec 3, 2001, 11:01 AM
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Yes ya Lose it.

I'm not sure why I was so excited, but we scored our first Booty on a 5.9 sport route that even I could lead. The person that climbed it last left two really nice large oval Biners to rap off with.

Just something exciting about making a climb and getting free stuff.... And NOT being the person that left it!



puffpuffpass


Dec 11, 2001, 7:34 PM
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dude here's the way it works you got two major good options first go to the hardware store and buy a few 50 cent quick links, they work great. nuemro two there is a way to repel off of a bolt useing a sling and with out leaving the sling but its a little long to explain but if you want to know how e-mail me and ill draw it for you with step by step instructions.

as to the question of cleaning i find its easiest to have someone lower you while you use a draw on the rope going up to help hold you closer to the rock, but yes you do take a huge swing after you unclip the last draw. if you know of a better way please let me know im alittle sick of getting personal with schrubbries and bark inspections of large trees. but on the up side lots of serverly overhung places have permant draws hung, that way you dont have to clean them. f.y.i. unclip your "trolie" before you go for your swing or you'll take your belayer with you!(that tends you make them alittle mad they tend to hit more stuff)


treyr


Jan 5, 2002, 6:56 AM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2001
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Always carry A D BINER TO BAIL FROM. But if you want to be extra safe and got some cash to spend use a steel biner. Or Rapell down


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