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compclimber


Oct 27, 2001, 11:08 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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 Cody Roth has recently red pointed "The Sickman" at Polomas Peak, New Mexico. In an iterview with R&I.com he accredits the Petit Brothers Hangboard from Enterprises as for his success on the route. My question is, should a major magazine publish something like this??? and should they even touch on the fact that "The Sickman" is a cluster f**k of drilled pockets???



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[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2001-10-27 11:09 ]

[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2001-10-27 11:10 ]

[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2001-10-27 11:12 ]

[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2001-10-27 21:47 ]

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jds100


Oct 27, 2001, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2001
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It's a bit difficult to judge from such a small quote, as the one in the online article, but it could certainly be taken as another example of excessive commercialization of climbing. It "seems" to be a crass bit of shilling for one brand of training device, and I would have preferred that Rock-n-Ice exercise editorial judgement by not quoting directly, but rather writing that the climber "credits his success to training with a hangboard". I hope readers are astute enough to see the shallowness in this kind of obvious commercial touting. This is a smaller example of the "I'm goin' to Disney World!" crap we hear after the Super Bowl. Fortunately, it is ultimately the climber's own credibility that suffers.

As to the chipped fustercluck-of-a-climb: I, too, would rather the magazines not give publicity to these. It validates the illegitimate activity that put the route up. I don't think we, as a community, can say that we reject chipping, but , "Hey, once it's done, we might as well talk about the route, 'cause NOT talkin' about it won't restore the damage." That is functionally what the magazines are doing.


mtnneer


Oct 30, 2001, 3:22 AM
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Have you actually climbed palomas? I don't doubt your statement that there are chipped holds, it's just that when I've ever gone there, I've never seen a chipped hold (then again I'm doing .10's, and .11's not 5.14) just wondering...


andy_lemon


Oct 30, 2001, 10:34 AM
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You have to relise, all magazines/newspapers major income comes from (no, not us going out and buying them) ADVERTISING. I bet Cody Roth got a good some of dough for his quote if he already isn't a sponsored athlete by them and R&I possibly got a small check sent to them just to publish that, maybe, maybe not. This is all coming from a Public Relations major.


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