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agdavis
Mar 16, 2009, 4:41 PM
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Can anyone please make a few suggestions for good first trad leads? The only one I've come up with so far is The Bong but I'm sure there are lots... thanks in advance.
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clemsonscooby
Mar 16, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Check out the Thin Wall in RHV Nothing But A JTree Thing. Atlantis Wall in Lost Horse has Men With Cow Heads and Solar Technology. SW Corner of Headstone in Ryan, although the exposure and runout at the top could make it heady for a new leader. You can check out the Gross Vogel Wall in Lost Horse, but I thought the actual climbing there was short even though the pitch was long.
Forgot to mention the Eye, although I have never been on it, supposed to be good. The best guide book for new leaders is the Trad Guide to JTree by the Wingers. Everything we got on from that book was amazing, except the Gross Vogel stuff.
(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Mar 16, 2009, 5:02 PM)
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curt
Mar 16, 2009, 5:52 PM
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agdavis wrote: Can anyone please make a few suggestions for good first trad leads? The only one I've come up with so far is The Bong but I'm sure there are lots... thanks in advance.
Any one of the easy cracks on the backside of Trash Can Rock. You'll get plenty of running beta--whether you need it or not.
Curt
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jt512
Mar 16, 2009, 6:48 PM
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clemsonscooby wrote: Check out the Thin Wall in RHV Nothing But A JTree Thing. Atlantis Wall in Lost Horse has Men With Cow Heads and Solar Technology. SW Corner of Headstone in Ryan, although the exposure and runout at the top could make it heady for a new leader. You can check out the Gross Vogel Wall in Lost Horse, but I thought the actual climbing there was short even though the pitch was long. Forgot to mention the Eye, although I have never been on it, supposed to be good. The best guide book for new leaders is the Trad Guide to JTree by the Wingers. Everything we got on from that book was amazing, except the Gross Vogel stuff.
The Wingers Guide to J Tree? Sounds appropriate enough.
Jay
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agdavis
Mar 16, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Excellent, exactly what I needed. Thank you.
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jt512
Mar 16, 2009, 10:20 PM
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agdavis wrote: Excellent, exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Actually, I think Curt's suggestion is the one you should go with.
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clemsonscooby
Mar 17, 2009, 5:54 AM
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http://www.joshuatreetrad.com/
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krusher4
Mar 17, 2009, 6:44 AM
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"The Eye" is a great climb, every time I'm in the park I always make it the first route of the trip. Just don't expect too much gear to go in and you'll have a blast.
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troutboy
Mar 17, 2009, 7:30 AM
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krusher4 wrote: "The Eye" is a great climb, every time I'm in the park I always make it the first route of the trip. Just don't expect too much gear to go in and you'll have a blast.
I would never recommend this as a first lead, Great climb, yes. First lead, emphatically no.
TS
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troutboy
Mar 17, 2009, 7:41 AM
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agdavis wrote: Can anyone please make a few suggestions for good first trad leads? The only one I've come up with so far is The Bong but I'm sure there are lots... thanks in advance.
Some more suggestions:
Any of the easy cracks on the right side of Short Wall in Indian Cove.
False Layback, 5.4, Cap Rock
Duchess, 5.6, Feudal Wall (Indian Cove)
Willit Slab, 5.7, Indian Cove (bolted, might be considered a TAD run out by a beginner).
T
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brotherbbock
Mar 17, 2009, 8:28 AM
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troutboy wrote: agdavis wrote: Can anyone please make a few suggestions for good first trad leads? The only one I've come up with so far is The Bong but I'm sure there are lots... thanks in advance. Some more suggestions: Any of the easy cracks on the right side of Short Wall in Indian Cove. False Layback, 5.4, Cap Rock Duchess, 5.6, Feudal Wall (Indian Cove) Willit Slab, 5.7, Indian Cove (bolted, might be considered a TAD run out by a beginner). T
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jt512
Mar 17, 2009, 10:05 AM
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krusher4 wrote: "The Eye" is a great climb, every time I'm in the park I always make it the first route of the trip. Just don't expect too much gear to go in and you'll have a blast.
Which means it's not a good first trad lead!
Jay
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jt512
Mar 17, 2009, 10:11 AM
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clemsonscooby wrote: http://www.joshuatreetrad.com/
You asked for a good first trad lead, not a list of popular moderates. Your first few trad leads should be stupid-easy, so you can concentrate almost exclusively on the placements. The quality of the routes is irrelevant. Dead easy climbing, and good, plentiful protection opportunities are what's important.
The next stage is to progress to easily protected moderate climbs, for which that guidebook should be useful—but it's not the answer to the question you actually asked.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 17, 2009, 4:20 PM)
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bandycoot
Mar 17, 2009, 10:53 AM
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If I remember right there is a good route or two at Dairy Queen wall with good features and gear.
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clemsonscooby
Mar 17, 2009, 11:09 AM
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jt512 wrote: clemsonscooby wrote: http://www.joshuatreetrad.com/ You asked for a good first trad lead, not a list of popular moderates. You first few trad leads should stupid-easy, so you can concentrate almost exclusively on the placements. The quality of the routes is irrelevant. Dead easy climbing, and good, plentiful protection opportunities are what's important. The next stage is to progress to easily protected moderate climbs, for which that guidebook should be useful—but it's not the answer to the question you actually asked. Jay
It all depends on a persons climbing ability, which was never stated. I was just giving a link to the book I suggested, but thanks for the lecture (+1 for your post count). If your climbing 5.8-5.10 in the gym, the 5.5-5.6 climbs should be easy and the climbing will be secondary. Its all about personal preference though. Its good to think about a guide and maybe doing a practice lead on TR and have someone experience check your gear. Hiring a guide is always another good option, but they can be pricey.
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jcrew
Mar 17, 2009, 11:11 AM
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toe jam...
don't know your experience level but you'd better know how to construct anchors and decend by various methods before you go leading about in josh
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yokese
Mar 17, 2009, 11:56 AM
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Another vote for Atlantis Wall. Easy routes with plenty and easy protection. Lots of space and possibilities for the top belay station and easy walk down. No slabs, no runouts, not even pure crack-climbing technique.
http://mountainproject.com/...horse_area/105720669
That said, I'd pay attention to whatever advice Curt might have to offer about Jtree climbing. But I've never climbed at Trash Can (is that the formation close to the North entrance?).
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jt512
Mar 17, 2009, 2:27 PM
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clemsonscooby wrote: jt512 wrote: clemsonscooby wrote: http://www.joshuatreetrad.com/ You asked for a good first trad lead, not a list of popular moderates. You first few trad leads should stupid-easy, so you can concentrate almost exclusively on the placements. The quality of the routes is irrelevant. Dead easy climbing, and good, plentiful protection opportunities are what's important. The next stage is to progress to easily protected moderate climbs, for which that guidebook should be useful—but it's not the answer to the question you actually asked. Jay It all depends on a persons climbing ability, which was never stated. I was just giving a link to the book I suggested, but thanks for the lecture (+1 for your post count). If your climbing 5.8-5.10 in the gym, the 5.5-5.6 climbs should be easy and the climbing will be secondary.
Bullshit. I know lots of 5.5s and 5.6s that would make be terrifying and/or unsafe as a first trad lead for a 5.8, or even a 5.10 gym climber.
In reply to: Its all about personal preference though.
No, actually, it's not. Not for a first-time trad leader, who doesn't know the area. J Tree is really good area to bite off more you can chew, and get injured, as a beginning trad leader.
Jay
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yokese
Mar 17, 2009, 3:57 PM
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jt512 wrote: Bullshit. I know lots of 5.5s and 5.6s that would make be terrifying and/or unsafe as a first trad lead for a 5.8, or even a 5.10 gym climber. Jay
And even some 5.2-5.4s, I'd dare to add.
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USnavy
Mar 17, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Climb B1. lol That was my first trad lead there. Its a 5.1 / 4th class. 
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caliclimbergrl
Mar 17, 2009, 4:30 PM
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jt512 wrote: Bullshit. I know lots of 5.5s and 5.6s that would make be terrifying and/or unsafe as a first trad lead for a 5.8, or even a 5.10 gym climber. In reply to: Its all about personal preference though. No, actually, it's not. Not for a first-time trad leader, who doesn't know the area. J Tree is really good area to bite off more you can chew, and get injured, as a beginning trad leader. Jay
I totally agree with all that!! A lot of people say that J-Tree has stiff grades ... I'm not sure I agree with that if you're just talking about the difficult of the actual moves on a climb. But I've climbed there a few times and compared to most areas I climb at, I do climb several grades lower. Not because of difficulty, but because of other things that are unique to J-Tree. Sometimes gear is tricky. Mostly, it's the walk offs that freak me out. If you're very comfortable scrambling down exposed 4th class or sometimes low 5th class terrain, you'll be fine. And many people are. But I'm not. I was actually pretty freaked out doing the walk off of The Bong. And for that reason, I don't climb on The Blob anymore. I know there are other ways to get off, but I think they're all more than a new trad leader would want to take on. And I've seen people get ropes stuck several times after rappelling and then they have to go back up and down the sketchy walk-off anyway.
This is just my opinion based on my skills and comfort level. If you're really comfortable scrambling down or figuring out how to rap off (and think you can get your rope down without getting stuck or are willing to go back up for it) then go for it.
Personally, I think Men With Cow's Heads would be a better first lead. Or others that were mentioned with that one in that post. I thought those routes were much more mellow when considering the whole process (getting up and getting down!).
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agdavis
Mar 17, 2009, 5:07 PM
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What type of belay setup for bringing up the second works best at Trashcan? Hanging? Sitting on the edge? Will the masterpoint for the belay anchor be above me or below/waist high?
I have never personally been to Trashcan so I'm not too familiar with the rock.
Thanks for all the feedback guys -- it's nice to post something without getting flamed.
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senditdude
Mar 17, 2009, 5:49 PM
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agdavis, Check your pm's, I think i can help.
(This post was edited by senditdude on Mar 17, 2009, 5:50 PM)
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climbsomething
Mar 17, 2009, 5:56 PM
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I climb 5.11 in the gym, but the hardest lead I've attempted in JTree is 5.5. I don't mean to put JTree on a pedestal, but I'm not a big trad leader and I think the rock there is not to be trifled with.
I'm sure most of the world's 5.2s and 5.3s are ass but at JTree, many can be worthwhile for a novice leader.
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curt
Mar 17, 2009, 6:20 PM
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agdavis wrote: What type of belay setup for bringing up the second works best at Trashcan? Hanging? Sitting on the edge? Will the masterpoint for the belay anchor be above me or below/waist high? I have never personally been to Trashcan so I'm not too familiar with the rock. Thanks for all the feedback guys -- it's nice to post something without getting flamed.
You'll need some medium to large gear and some slings. You can either extend the anchor out to the edge of the rock (with the rope) so that you can see what's going on--or just sit farther back and belay by feel.
Curt
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