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JakubBujak
Mar 21, 2009, 1:38 AM
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So I have been climbing for a while now and can do a 5.8 relatively easily and 5.9 with some difficulty. Naturally, the only way for me to get better from here is to climb harder routes. My question is: when do you feel that you are confident with your skills to try a higher grade. Naturally, it is pretty subjective.
Also, chances are amazingly good that if I do try a 5.10 that I won't get it on my first try. When in a day's climbing do you try for something out of your comfort level? Do you prefer to warm up with easier climbs beforehand or do you go right for the difficult stuff before you get hosed? Thanks in advance.
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angry
Mar 21, 2009, 1:50 AM
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Can I assume gym or sport?
If so, 5.10 isn't considerably harder than 5.9. There's no reason not to try a 5.10 right now. Or an 11.
Basically if you can climb much of the route or at least long sections of the route, you're ready. It's a waste of your time and your belayers to climb a foot, sit on the rope, climb a foot, sit on the rope, etc until you've made it to the top. You haven't learned a bit about the route or the moves.
If it takes you 5-6 falls to get up a 5.10, cool. Try to learn the route, where you fell, and why you fell and try to get it with fewer or no falls next time.
Of course you still need to climb stuff bottom to top without falling too. That way you keep endurance up, aren't sloppily pawing up something, and are keeping your confidence.
5.10 aint bad. With consistency any retard can lead 5.10 sport or gym in their first year of climbing.
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shockabuku
Mar 21, 2009, 1:57 AM
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Yeah, warm up on something easier first. Jumping into something challenging for your first climb of the day is generally not a good idea.
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Agolz12
Mar 21, 2009, 2:07 AM
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You should try to ignore the grades and just try to climb whichever routes you can start. Once you start, try to work out the sequence and see what your capable of. And for god sakes warm up before you start to work stuff at your limit.
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bill413
Mar 21, 2009, 2:18 AM
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"When to climb higher grade" - Now. Or at least attempt it.
There is nothing to stop you from jumping onto any route that appeals to you to try. Sure, you may fall - but, that's ok.
Climb what appeals to you. If you make it - grand. If you take a fall or 9, that's cool too.
Warm up on easier routes, give a hard one or two a legitimate try, and see how you do.
There are routes that I can't do that I still enjoy making attempts on - and my belayers are ok with that. :)
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karmiclimber
Mar 21, 2009, 2:28 AM
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JakubBujak wrote: So I have been climbing for a while now and can do a 5.8 relatively easily and 5.9 with some difficulty. Naturally, the only way for me to get better from here is to climb harder routes. My question is: when do you feel that you are confident with your skills to try a higher grade. Naturally, it is pretty subjective. Also, chances are amazingly good that if I do try a 5.10 that I won't get it on my first try. When in a day's climbing do you try for something out of your comfort level? Do you prefer to warm up with easier climbs beforehand or do you go right for the difficult stuff before you get hosed? Thanks in advance.
Climb higher grades when you are not falling or struggling on what you are currently climbing. I've seen great climbers get stuck at 5.10 for waaay too long. You ain't fallin', you ain't climbing hard enough. Not that you shouldn't climb for enjoyment, God knows that's my climbing specialty. Either that or getting on routes that I have no prayer of sumimiting. Anyway, if you are walking routes, go up a grade or two. Why not?
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uni_jim
Mar 21, 2009, 2:44 AM
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what changed me from a 5.9 to 5.11 climber (within weeks) was not looking at the grade of a climb. I picked out a few things that looked like they had some cool moves and i just worked on those same routes each week until i nailed them. Knowing how hard somebody else thinks a route is will not help you, grabing that first hold and hauling your butt up to the first draw will.
after you send the route or at least fall off a good half dozen times you might take a look at the grade, it will let you know how you are doing compared to before.
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johnwesely
Mar 21, 2009, 2:52 AM
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The difference between 5.9 and 10a is going to be negligible. In fact, for most routes grades don't really represent the difficulty well. I have never been able to tell the difference between 10b and 10d or 10c from 11a etc, etc. Just get on the climbs that look good and don't worry about it. The less you worry about numbers the less they will limit you.
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clc
Mar 21, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Remember too that different crags and types of climbing will be graded and feel different. For example one of my friends is a solid 5.12 sport climber on steep limestone but get him on a slabby 5.10. ah shit its funny. he's not very good.
Also a 5.9 at one climbing area may be called 5.10 somewhere else. So grades really only give a general idea. If its safe and looks good ...give it a go.
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Adk
Mar 21, 2009, 12:13 PM
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All great tips above for you. I'll add this; let the rock tell you how to move. Many times in lower grades you can just climb it without much thought to sequence and your center of gravity. You will not be able to do this so much as the grades increase. Think technique.
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JakubBujak
Mar 21, 2009, 2:35 PM
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Thanks guys for all the great tips. I'll definitely take that into consideration on my next outing.
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rainman0915
Mar 22, 2009, 7:11 AM
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always stretch and warm up before you try something hard or you will hurt yourself.
there is no reason you should not try something that's hard for you, if you just keep doing the same routes and never try something harder then you will never send something harder.
with that said dont let the numbers intimidate you its amazing how much mind set will affect your climbing, a lot of the time when im working a hard route and falling on the same move over and over again in the end all i have to do is remember that the move is possible picture myself doing it and dont expect to fall.
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krusher4
Mar 23, 2009, 4:33 PM
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My rule of thumb is if you've done at least 10 routes at a grade and in good style then your ready for the next grade.
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kriso9tails
Mar 23, 2009, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: My question is: when do you feel that you are confident with your skills to try a higher grade. Naturally, it is pretty subjective.
I have no real skills to speak of; my confidence stems from idiocy. It's wonderful.
When I see a climb at a higher grade that is so aesthetically pleasing it causes me to spontaneously orgasm, I tend to be pretty certain that it's time to climb at a higher grade.
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Mar 24, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Yes!! Warm up on easier stuff, also a dynamic stretch works awesome which is basically using normal movements to stretch ( jumping jacks, cherry pickers, running in place, any kind of stretching that involves continuous movement) Studies have shown that static stretching can decrease muscle strength in the short term. Static stretching is still good, just not the best before a climb.
Run a few laps at a comfortable grade, then go for your limit, never at your limit before warming up.
The purpose of warming up is not so much to stretch the muscles than it is to just get your blood flowing which will get your muscles relaxed and ready for a pump.
Yes!! There will be a point in which the grading system will make more sense relative to your climbing skill and disciplines, but until then just climb everything you can without focusing on grades.
Obviously if you cant do the first move on a particular climb move on to the next one.
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rangerrob
Mar 24, 2009, 2:42 AM
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Angry, am I a retard because i didn't lead 5.10 on bolts in my first year of climbing? That was a dumb statement man.
A lot of people here already gave you the right answer. If yhou really give a crap about the numbers, the by all means get on the hardest thing you can hold on to without hurting yourself. If you just want to enjoy yourself, then go find a route that looks appealing, and try it without worrying what the grade, or the name of it is. You might surprise yourself. You have to be willing to leave some booty for those inevitable bails
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jsj7051
Mar 24, 2009, 2:57 AM
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I'm confused, are we talking Sport inside or outside?
Trad , toprope ?
Leading , following ?
All the advise seems to point to Sport. Hope thats what your doing.
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bill413
Mar 24, 2009, 3:03 AM
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Nope - don't care what your kink is. Of course, it's reasonable to be more cautious if you're leading (especially trad) or if you're looking at a boulder problem with a nasty landing. But, if the climb appeals to you, and you have the competence the discipline demands...why not give it a shot.
If it's a lead, and you have to leave gear .... well, lots of us have done that. Otherwise, as long as things are safe...it looks interesting, give it a go.
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