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TonySF
Feb 8, 2009, 5:32 AM
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We're looking for good Yosemite Valley routes to practice for the 5.8 Texas Flake chimney on the Nose. Ideally 5.8-5.9 and not too many pitches up. Looks like Arch Rock has some good options - anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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skiclimb
Feb 8, 2009, 7:10 PM
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narrow cinderblock hallways?
Tongue in cheek sorta.. but i'll bet if you find a good one it would give you some confidence.
Might want to find a few different width ones.
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TonySF
Feb 9, 2009, 12:34 AM
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I actually heard of someone doing hallways or something like that at a local school... maybe UC Berkeley? Cinder blocks might have too much friction - I've heard the Texas Flake is pretty slick.
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vegastradguy
Feb 9, 2009, 12:39 AM
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eh, go play on the Caverns over on the five open books and the first pitch of royal arches.
then go do the first pitch of the east butt of el cap.
(caveat- i have not done texas flake, but its a chimney- its not rocket science...)
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ptlong
Feb 9, 2009, 5:13 PM
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- Church Bowl Chimney, stout for 5.6
- Cookie Right
- p1 of E Butt El Cap, if you don't mind walking
- Moby Dick Left, stout for 5.9
- The Remnant?
- Flatus?
- After Five?
- Kor Beck has some chimneys in the first five pitches
The Caverns route doesn't have any chimneying.
Suggest you try asking at Widefetish or Supertopo.
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no_email_entered
Feb 9, 2009, 5:33 PM
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church bowl chimney is only stout if your over 6ft tall---if your 5.5 or shorter its a party. pretty wide compared to the flake tho.
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graniteboy
Feb 18, 2009, 9:06 PM
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And seeing how you're focusing on the wrong part of the story, brother (worrying about a 30 ft chimney when you should be practicing your freeclimbing, hauling, aid, and french free techniques)
You SIMPLY MUST take a lap on 10.96 and on Hang dog flyer.....
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clintcummins
Feb 20, 2009, 10:21 PM
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The chimneying on Texas Flake is easier than 5.8 if you go the right way. There is a 5.8 move to get into the base of the chimney. Then you walk along the base of the chimney to the far side. Chimney up that (easy width) and then traverse to the top with your feet on the edge of the flake.
If you chimney straight up in the middle of the flake, that is slick and 5.8. You can make it easier either way by leaving your rack in the base of the chimney - clip it to your haul line with 40' of slack. Take a couple of draws for the anchor, and then haul up the rack.
If you go the easy way, the chimneying is about 5.4, so you could train with something like the left variation to Reed's Pinnacle Regular route. This is the one which intersects Reed's Direct at the end of the first pitch and then crosses it, staying in the chimney behind the huge flake.
Here's a list of chimneys under 5.9 for training if you want to up your skills:
297. Gilligan's Chicken p1 5.4
487. The Iota 5.4
1215. Swan Slab Chimney 5.5
504. Reed's Pinnacle - flake chimney start 5.6
1221. un SS j 5.6
234. Capital Punishment 5.7
294. Pat Pinnacle 5.7
439. Chimney Sweep 5.7
500. The Remnant - Right Side 5.7
581. Mojo chimney flake 5.7
1214. Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
1430. Uncle Fanny 5.7 *
185. The Cookie - Original 5.8
1034. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1475. Trial by Fire 5.8
2050. Chockblock Chimney 5.8
2117. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Feb 20, 2009, 10:25 PM)
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graniteboy
Feb 20, 2009, 10:58 PM
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NO, NO, NO, as SFtony has correctly assumed, he needs desperately to train hard for the desperate chimney pitch behind texas flake. Much more important than working on his hauling, speed aid climbing etc...
SO:
1) Ahab.
2) 10.96
3) SW face conness
4) Keeler regular route
5) the Kaukulator
6) the offwidths of excalibur
When you get these done, come on back, I have another list for you 2 do B4 you're ready, tony. That texas flake is really really a serious mutha.
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alpine_monk
Feb 23, 2009, 7:53 PM
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as someone already said the texas flake is not that bad. go do entrance exam on arch rock and you will be good to go.
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graniteboy
Feb 23, 2009, 9:03 PM
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Hee hee hee..
Actually, entrance exam is far and away about a magnitude of order harder that that little chimney behind texas flke. This guy (OP) needs to quit worrying about that chimney and focus on more important matters, like rope management, stoveleg crack size hand/fist jamming, hauling, and general safety issues.
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lambone
Mar 21, 2009, 7:08 PM
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Keep in mind that if you go Clint's way you won't be able to clip the bolt halfway up the chimney. However i remember seeing rivets on the top edge of the flake on that side.
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salamanizer
Mar 21, 2009, 8:25 PM
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Seriously, Graniteboys got it right, the Texas flake shouldn't be a problem. If it is, you shouldn't be on the the wall anyway and it would be wise to bail.
You would much better serve yourself by dialing in your hauling, change overs, french free and onsight free climbing. The Texas flake is only a small 20ft section on a 3000ft climb. There will be much harder obstacles to tackle along the way than the lowly Texas Flake. Like fatigue, paranoia and Koreans etc...
Here's a pic looking down the thing... Sorry, only one I have.
Edited to add; It looks longer than it really is in the pic. If you look closely, to the left of me (about where the shadow line is) is the ground where the actual chimneying begins just below my feet. To the right is the short section of 5.8 Clint was talking about. I know it doesn't look like it, but it's just an awkward move or two into the chimney, about 8ft tall.
(This post was edited by salamanizer on Mar 21, 2009, 8:31 PM)
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