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Whip Report
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jeremy11


Mar 21, 2009, 6:47 PM
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Whip Report
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Whip Report:
My first solo aid fall!
Funny thing was, I had climbed the route before fine.
It is just an 80 foot thin C2 in CO.


The #0 RP that pulled - I should have tapped it into the crack deeper - it held fine until I got in the 2nd steps, then the outward force was enough to pull it out



With a new rope and probably a bit of slip through the grigri, I ended up going about 15 feet, even though the next piece caught me - good thing, cause I stopped only 10 feet off the ground. The DMM Ripstop (like a screamer) on my ground anchor did not deploy at all.



The #2 Frost Sentinel long cable that caught me
(5 kN)! This piece is the perfect fit for this shallow oddball placement.

FYI - I have climbed probably 40-50 aid pitches, up to A2 nailing, mostly solo, and 50+ rope solo trad free climbs up to 5.9, just hadn't fallen yet.


patmay81


Mar 21, 2009, 7:36 PM
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Re: [jeremy11] Whip Report [In reply to]
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sweet! congrats. Ive gotta say, I've never whipped more than 5' on a solo aid, I guess I get a little over obsessed with sewing clean aid up. I did fall 15-20 on a roped solo (free) once though, thats a way bigger rush than a belayed whip.
I love the self reliance required for solo climbing.


coastal_climber


Mar 22, 2009, 9:28 AM
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Re: [patmay81] Whip Report [In reply to]
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Nice. Good job! You finished the route?


jeremy11


Mar 22, 2009, 1:41 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Whip Report [In reply to]
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yeah, I finished it. I had climbed it before just fine, last fall, just didn't place the #0 quite deep enough the first time.
So, don't rush it just because it held last time!


Adk


Mar 22, 2009, 1:55 PM
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Glad that you didn't get hurt. Nice picks. These are the kind that are nice to see but are rarely taken and posted.
The pic of the frost nuts makes me want to get a set. I've been pondering the idea I have.


jeremy11


Mar 22, 2009, 5:29 PM
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yeah, if the #2 Frost pulled, it would have been another 3 feet or so to the next piece, for 6+ feet of rope, so I would have been scraping the ground for sure...

The #2 Frost came out easily with a nut tool and a hammer tap or two.

Frost nuts are nice. The long cable has been helpful and even almost necessary on aid a few times. Of course you can also hitch two nuts together for more reach. The can get a little more in the way on the rack, but that's not a big deal. They are my standard nut for when only one set is coming.

My current selection of nuts is a set of Frost long cables, DMM alloy offsets, Rock Empire curved nuts, ABC Huevos 1-7, BD Micros 1-6 and doubles of 4-6. For the pictured route I borrowed some RPs as well. I also have a set of DMM brass offsets on order for whenever they come


coastal_climber


Mar 22, 2009, 5:31 PM
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jeremy11 wrote:
I also have a set of DMM brass offsets on order for whenever they come

I've ordered a set as well, I'm pretty stoked for them. They should be nice.


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